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2.5L ('98-'01) 2.3 to 2.5 conversion questions


Cy Sanders

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1994
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Pulling my 2.3 out of my 94 and using a 99 2.5. Using all the parts off my 2.3 on the intake and exhaust side. Hopefully all the pulleys and accessory stuff too. Found out the "new" engine has a lot of crank play. Which bearing cap has the thrust main? Its not obvious on the caps and I can't find a good motor diagram listing it. Is it only on the lower half of the bearing? ...did some idiot have his fingers in there?
Also as far as the ignition goes is the crank sensor on the 2.3 going to work on the 2.5. Does it work off the crank pulley? Can the harmonic balancer be switched as I read the 93 has a lesser number of pickups? I have not pulled the 2.3 yet and i am trying to stage the 2.5 first. Any help or advice is greatly appreciated.
 


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scotts90ranger

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This has been covered some lately, and most are saying it's a pain in the rear... I'm sure it's possible but might not be a weekend project...

The block will likely need to be drilled and tapped for the crank sensor mounting point which will involve the front cover being off as well as the oil pan likely, you will have to make a template from the older engine to transfer to the new engine, since the oil pump is in that area on the 2.5L don't get too crazy. There's an alignment stud and two bolts, for the stud drill/tap it for a 6mm bolt, take a bolt with shoulder and cut the head off then loctite that in place. You'll most likely want to use the 2.3L front cover since it doesn't have the crank sensor mount on it.

Yes, the crank pulley should transfer

You'll also need to make a place for the ignition module to mount or use the 2.3l intake manifold which I think will fit? Either way the DIS module has to be mounted with the 3 original bolt locations (don't use the 4th), and it has to be grounded, ideally you will use some thermal paste and attach it to a heat sink since it does make heat...

Most of the rest should be fairly straight forward...
 

DCman

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Pulling my 2.3 out of my 94 and using a 99 2.5. Using all the parts off my 2.3 on the intake and exhaust side. Hopefully all the pulleys and accessory stuff too. Found out the "new" engine has a lot of crank play. Which bearing cap has the thrust main? Its not obvious on the caps and I can't find a good motor diagram listing it. Is it only on the lower half of the bearing? ...did some idiot have his fingers in there?
Also as far as the ignition goes is the crank sensor on the 2.3 going to work on the 2.5. Does it work off the crank pulley? Can the harmonic balancer be switched as I read the 93 has a lesser number of pickups? I have not pulled the 2.3 yet and i am trying to stage the 2.5 first. Any help or advice is greatly appreciated.
Don't know about the thrust bearing, but the two crank sensors are completely different in every way, shape and form.
There is no way to make one work with the other.
You'd literally have to "graft" the crank sensor you truck originally used onto the newer motor, and because of how it works, there's no guarantee that it will even be feasible.
...this is starting to sound like a job for a carburetor....and a cam, a set of headers...maybe a turbo....:drool:
 

scotts90ranger

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2.3 Turbo
Transmission
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2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
6
Tire Size
35"
Should be doable, I put the '89-94 style crank sensor on two different '85 turbo blocks over the years, I just made a template with cardboard referencing to the outer front cover bolts and the bottom of the block then transferred the holes to the new to me block. The unknown on my end is on the newer block with the oil pump behind the aux pulley if anything will be hit...

Carburetors are fine and all, and I like tinkering with things but I don't have the patience for carbs on vehicles that get used occasionally, fuel injection has spoiled me, I don't think I can go back to carbs, I'm even planning on putting a '97 5.0L in a '67 Mustang with a 4R70W, I don't want to deal with the carb... Want to start it? turn the key, no choke, no babying it when it's cold to keep it running, should just work... Of course it'll get a mild cam and it'll likely keep the Hooker headers that are on the 289...
 

Cy Sanders

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Great! Thanks for the help. I will have both motors side by side so the mechanics should be straight forward. Was not sure if I would have balance issues switching pullies. Internal/external balancing etc. Its my beater truck I prefer to drive to work in the city. I unhooked the tranny speed sensor and ran the 2.3 to the floor for five years.
I did discover to my chagrin, that the thrust bearing is only on the top side of the block, gay! bearing surface looks good, shoulder wore into the crank. So I will be soldering a piece of copper onto the side of the bearing to adjust the crank thrust. Have done it many times before on small block Fords and Chevys. I guess the converter swelled and and pushed the crank around? I will keep you posted. Thanks again!!!
 

tinman_72

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1993
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2.5
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Factory
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I have done this same swap. (98 2.5 into 93) I have said before and I say it again, it is not worth the trouble.
I used the intake and exhaust manifolds from my '93. Accessory brackets and water pump from 2.3 will not work, you must use them from the 2.5.
Once I drilled and tapped the block for the '93's crack sensor I found that one of the new holes was crazy close to an oil galley.
In my opinion, there are easier ways to gain 10 horsepower.
 

scotts90ranger

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Total Lift
6
Tire Size
35"
I wondered about the accessories since they're right up in the area the oil pump now lives in...

At that point a small turbo with a wastegate set at 5psi does sound easier...
 

Fredness

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2.5L uses 1/2 of a thrust bearing on the block side, and it appears to be a common failure; mine had .119" of endplay - only .107" out of spec.

But, the 2.5L has up to 3x the endplay of a 2.3L.

Mine was a ballooned torque converter.
 

Cy Sanders

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2.5L uses 1/2 of a thrust bearing on the block side, and it appears to be a common failure; mine had .119" of endplay - only .107" out of spec.

But, the 2.5L has up to 3x the endplay of a 2.3L.

Mine was a ballooned torque converter.
Thanks. Probably what killed my 2.3. When I pushed the clutch in the growling in the motor stopped. Did it for 50k. Drove it home one day and it wouldn't start the next. I had the 2.5 in a spare truck. Same issues with soft steel in the cranks of the 302's I guess?
 

Fredness

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If it did it until it wouldn't start, check the crank sensor, mine was dingged up on the face.
176,000 miles.
 


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