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2.3L ('83-'97) 2.3 Really bad gas mileage


Suzonda

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Maine
Vehicle Year
1996
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Mazda B2300
Engine Type
2.3 (4 Cylinder)
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
2WD
Maybe work on your exhaust, replace the o2 and do a muffler delete. I just took mine off and it feels a little stronger, I haven't confirmed a mpg increase yet.
Brand new Ford factory exhaust Manifold back. I don't do exhaust mods if vehicle doesn't need it or if I care about vehicle, especially a kid being involved. My history with 2.3 rangers is they need the backpressure to run 100%. And I've had 6 of them. 3.0 and 4.0 don't really care as much on exhaust.
 


Dirtman

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41N 75W
Vehicle Year
2009
Engine Type
2.3 (4 Cylinder)
Transmission
Automatic
2WD / 4WD
2WD
Total Lift
It's up there.
Total Drop
It's down there.
Tire Size
Round.
My credo
I poop in the furnace.
No engine needs backpressure to run 100%. Any backpressure above 0psi is detrimental to engine efficiency. Engines need scavenging. :icon_thumby:
 

Roert42

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Kintersville, PA
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Ranger XLT
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4.0 SOHC
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It's all about that Velocity baby.
 

John501

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Location
Kansas
Vehicle Year
1990
Make / Model
Ford ranger
Engine Type
2.3 (4 Cylinder)
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
2WD
Tire Size
235/75r15
Brand new Ford factory exhaust Manifold back. I don't do exhaust mods if vehicle doesn't need it or if I care about vehicle, especially a kid being involved. My history with 2.3 rangers is they need the backpressure to run 100%. And I've had 6 of them. 3.0 and 4.0 don't really care as much on exhaust.
Dang, are you running bigger tires or anything? How cold does it get where you live? I know the cold effects my 2.3 much more than my 4.0, which get 19mpg no matter what happens. Back pressure is important but almost all of it comes from the cat, mufflers just add a restriction to the flow trapping heat.
 

John501

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Kansas
Vehicle Year
1990
Make / Model
Ford ranger
Engine Type
2.3 (4 Cylinder)
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
2WD
Tire Size
235/75r15
Alright guys another update on my ranger here. I live in Kansas, and we have had some nice weather here for the last 2 or so weeks between 55-75 degrees Fahrenheit. I got 18.5 mpg this last fill up, and I noticed my truck back fires a bit every shift. It seems to be running good, but with the back fire I'm starting to think it might have started running rich. It has an exhaust leak between the cat and manifold, so I'm thinking about putting in a new catalytic converter since the current one is 31. What does everyone think? Should i put a new one on or is there something else should I look at?
 

tomw

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toenails of foothills NW of Atlanta
Vehicle Year
1985
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ford
Engine Type
2.3 (4 Cylinder)
Engine Size
lima bean
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
2WD
My credo
vertical and above ground
I would check fuel pressure. The regulator can get sticky and bump pressure above the desired value, allowing more fuel to spritz into the engine than desired. The diaphragm can fail, allowing higher pressure and fuel to be sucked into the intake via the vacuum line. Pull the vacuum line and sniff for a fuel smell, or remove the line with the engine running. If you have a fuel pressure gauge, engine at idle, removing the line should cause a bump in fuel pressure. If not, regulator is suspect. EGR should not be working at idle rpm, too much can cause misfire even at higher rpms.
A 2.3 will pay attention to tire size. Just found out how noticeable it is. If you have bumped the size, your odo reading and speedo reading will be off likely, and performance will be sluggish, so you will be in the gas pedal more
just to get the performance you had previously. Got proper size tires on order...
tom
 

John501

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Location
Kansas
Vehicle Year
1990
Make / Model
Ford ranger
Engine Type
2.3 (4 Cylinder)
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
2WD
Tire Size
235/75r15
I would check fuel pressure. The regulator can get sticky and bump pressure above the desired value, allowing more fuel to spritz into the engine than desired. The diaphragm can fail, allowing higher pressure and fuel to be sucked into the intake via the vacuum line. Pull the vacuum line and sniff for a fuel smell, or remove the line with the engine running. If you have a fuel pressure gauge, engine at idle, removing the line should cause a bump in fuel pressure. If not, regulator is suspect. EGR should not be working at idle rpm, too much can cause misfire even at higher rpms.
A 2.3 will pay attention to tire size. Just found out how noticeable it is. If you have bumped the size, your odo reading and speedo reading will be off likely, and performance will be sluggish, so you will be in the gas pedal more
just to get the performance you had previously. Got proper size tires on order...
tom
Would you know what fuel pressure the truck should make at idle?
 

Garth Libre

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Tennessee
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3.45’s with 235/75/15 tires really puts a load on that engine, for those size tires & that engine you really need 4.10’s and even at that you will most likely be around 20mpg. There could be other issues as mentioned above but I think getting the engine to be about 2,000-2,400 @ 55 mph would help alot, youre effectively driving uphill or with a trailer (as far as working the engine) all of the time. 4.10’s would make it so much more enjoyable to drive. The best milage I ever got from a 2.3 was in a 2wd supercab ranger with 3.73’s and 215/75/14 tires (23-28 mpg) My current ranger is at about 20 mpg and runs 4.10’s with 225/70/15’s (winter) or 235/75/15’s (summer) It also had 3.45’s originally with 225/70/14’s. I didnt drive it much before swapping out the axle for 4.10’s Winter milage is always lower, no way around it unless you live in the south. Also I never use 5th unless im above 50 mph, even with 4.10’s I feel like its lugging.
The tire store around here put those 235/75/15 tires on my car when I wanted the 225/70/15. When I asked why, he said he didn't have the stock size in inventory, so I should just drive it for a few days. I did and noticed a serious loss of power with the 2.3 liter engine and manual tranny. I had them put the 225's on for no charge and the car pulled better, felt more natural and seemed to be more secure. I think you have an engine problem but the tires don't help.
 

Dirtman

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Location
41N 75W
Vehicle Year
2009
Engine Type
2.3 (4 Cylinder)
Transmission
Automatic
2WD / 4WD
2WD
Total Lift
It's up there.
Total Drop
It's down there.
Tire Size
Round.
My credo
I poop in the furnace.
The tire store around here put those 235/75/15 tires on my car when I wanted the 225/70/15. When I asked why, he said he didn't have the stock size in inventory, so I should just drive it for a few days. I did and noticed a serious loss of power with the 2.3 liter engine and manual tranny. I had them put the 225's on for no charge and the car pulled better, felt more natural and seemed to be more secure. I think you have an engine problem but the tires don't help.
Your 2.3 makes double the power his 2.3 does. You can get away with alot more with a Duratec than you can with a Lima. (y)
 

John501

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Location
Kansas
Vehicle Year
1990
Make / Model
Ford ranger
Engine Type
2.3 (4 Cylinder)
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
2WD
Tire Size
235/75r15
So its sounds like I might be putting 4.10s into my 7.5 diff just to give the truck more gear and hopefully get it more drivable. Along as it gets a constant mpg ill be happy but I want to keep it above 20 average, anything below that I might as well just drive my 4.0 explorer that gets 19.
 

scotts90ranger

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Dayton Oregon
Vehicle Year
1990, 1997
Make / Model
Ford
Engine Type
2.3 (4 Cylinder)
Engine Size
2.3 Turbo
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
6
Tire Size
35"
My extended cab manual '97 got 22mpg with 235 75 15 snow tires (correcting for speedo being off and everything), with 225 70 15 car tires I'm getting 23.5mpg, this is with 4.10 gears
 

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