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2.3 carb help. What are these gizmos?


Dirtman

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I got the accelerator pump to squirt a couple times. It wasn't a geyser or anything but fuel came out. I'll take the cover off and see if its gummed up or rusty. For now the coolant choke thing is disconnected entirely. I'm just working the choke plate by hand.
 


Uncle Gump

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If they don't use it for winter driving... I've also just removed all choke parts... including buttery fly. We run those carb's on VW's for many years without a choke at all. Just have to keep it running when it's cold for a minute.

The accel pump is the lowest part of the bowl... water always settled there.
 

Dirtman

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It's in Georgia so winter ain't a big deal, but doesn't matter. I was just told to get it running good enough to drive it out of the garage it's in now lol. She idles nice, but touch the throttle and Blagherklumpf!
 

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Blagherklumpf!

That seems German... ashamed I don't know what that is.

Check the timing... and look closer at the accel pump.
 

Dirtman

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That's a rough translation of the noise it makes before stalling out when you try to give it gas lol... I'm done for the day, I'll get back to it tomorrow.
 

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These are the only 2 vacuum ports ON the carb, the red cap, and the one below is where the vacuum advance was connected.

View attachment 33692
All my experience is with 4bbl so it makes sense that a 2bbl would have half the ports. Sorry for the incorrect info.
 

19Walt93

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They used coolant for choke heat through the 76 model year, it was a bad idea even back then. In sub zero weather you could drive 3-4 miles and still be on choke and running rich with the cat giving off a nice warm red glow, not to mention lousy gas mileage. An electric cap off a later one will fit and should be fed stator voltage from the alternator. The vacuum advance can be done 2 different ways:(1) full manifold vacuum from below the throttle plate will give slightly better gas mileage if driven with a light throttle, at the expense of a low speed surge and loss of power on hills and hard accell. (2)Ported vacuum from above the throttle plate like you have it will add advance as you accelerate and run smoother throughout. The EGR is fed externally by a tube that runs from the exhaust manifold around the back of the engine and into the bottom of the EGR spacer. The vacuum for the EGR is from the EGR port on the carb which acts similar to ported vacuum but supplies less, it also goes through a TVS(temperature vacuum switch) that will prevent it opening until the engine is warm. I would not hook up the EGR because it will likely stick open from carbon build up while it was inop.
 

Dirtman

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Thanks walt. Well if the egr is suppose to be plumbed from the manifold that ain't ever happening. It's got headers on it...

Does it hurt to leave it on non functional or should I remove the whole damn thing from the intake and block it off?
 

Josh B

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I have some old carbs out in a shed
 

19Walt93

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If it's 100% closed it's working like a block off plate now. That being said, I'd remove it and make a plate because I can't tolerate things that don't work- for example politicians.
 

4.0blue98

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They used coolant for choke heat through the 76 model year, it was a bad idea even back then. In sub zero weather you could drive 3-4 miles and still be on choke and running rich with the cat giving off a nice warm red glow, not to mention lousy gas mileage. An electric cap off a later one will fit and should be fed stator voltage from the alternator. The vacuum advance can be done 2 different ways:(1) full manifold vacuum from below the throttle plate will give slightly better gas mileage if driven with a light throttle, at the expense of a low speed surge and loss of power on hills and hard accell. (2)Ported vacuum from above the throttle plate like you have it will add advance as you accelerate and run smoother throughout. The EGR is fed externally by a tube that runs from the exhaust manifold around the back of the engine and into the bottom of the EGR spacer. The vacuum for the EGR is from the EGR port on the carb which acts similar to ported vacuum but supplies less, it also goes through a TVS(temperature vacuum switch) that will prevent it opening until the engine is warm. I would not hook up the EGR because it will likely stick open from carbon build up while it was inop.

Interesting info. I had a 77 and like Walt said, I don't remember coolant lines to the choke. Pretty sure there was an emission pump that froze up after about 1 year. We bought it new in 1977 for just shy of 3k. It was the non-exploding year I think. A little tank. Speedometer went to 85, I think the horsepower went to 89...
 

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You don't have to run electric choke off the alternator
The reason "they" did that was the problem with leaving key on but not starting the engine right away
If you do that then choke will be almost open after 4 -5 minutes of sitting with key on, so hard to start the COLD engine after that

Hooked to alternator stator electric choke won't get power until engine/alternator is running
 

19Walt93

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The stator provides less than 12 volts, about 7 if I remember right, so the choke will come off more slowly than it would with full battery voltage. If you live in a warm area you can probably use full power and get the choke off more quickly as long as you don't have to stop and take off again within the first few minutes.
 

19Walt93

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If you don't have time to do it right will you have time to do it over?
None of the Pintos were more prone to gas tank fires than the average car of the era, the problem was that 20-20 got ahold of Ford video showing a fire during a crash test and sensationalized it. The story that got the whole thing started was 3 college students were travelling in Ohio, stopped for gas, and left the gas cap sitting on the rear window ledge. When they accelerated up the ramp they heard the cap roll down the trunk lid and stopped to get it- in the travelled lane on the highway-in front of a Doge van which hit the Pinto. Gas squirted out of the open filler neck and caught fire. Three young girls died because they did what many people did before gas caps had tethers, they left the cap off. The recall added a shield between the rear end and tank and replaced the filler tube with a longer one more resistant to pulling out of the tank in a crash. Most cars had the tank behind the rear axle-GM's had a 6 inch long filler tube right behind the rear plate, VW beetles had the tank sitting in front of the driver, Jeeps had it under the driver's seat and pickup tanks were in the cab behind the seat. The recall worked good for me, we had decided to start a family so I sold my 77 Mustang and bought a 2 year old 76 Pinto hatchback that had been traded in for $1600 that had 41,000 miles and brand new tires. After driving it 2 years and about 60,000 miles I sold it for $2500 and there was a guy standing behind the girl I sold it to with cash in hand in case she backed out. I'd still like Pintos even if I hadn't owned 3 that all sold for a profit.
 

4.0blue98

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It was like that when I found it.
I was tempted a few years back to buy another I saw for sale on my commute. I'd say a 76 from the grill. My uncle had a 74 wagon. They were good little cars. Used mine as a hunting vehicle for a few years. Climbed some roads that had a few 4x4 stuck on the sides. Amazing what that thing could do with a good set of snow tires and common sense. You could fit a couple deer in the trunk.
 

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