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2.3 carb help. What are these gizmos?


snoranger

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alwaysFlOoReD

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Good point that I forgot about.
Try this
Engine key OFF
Open throttle quickly while looking inside the top of carb
You should see gasoline squirt out into the throat, that's the Accelerator pump working

In second picture, the accelerator pump can be seen to the left of EGR valve it is attached to the side of the carb with 4 screws
It has an arm in the center that should be sticking out a bit and its not, thats the pump arm that is pulled in when you open the throttle, and thats what squirts out the gasoline for "acceletration", hence the name accelerator pump

If this is not working then the engine will hesitate and stumble when throttle is opened because the Main Jets can't respond quick enough with the extra fuel needed
 

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Well, fixed the choke. (Just disconnected it). The accelerator pump seems to be working. That rod does move inward when you move the throttle and it does squirt. Fuel pump has 3 lines on it, one is just dangling and I have no idea what it does (I assume it's an ancient form of return line) so not sure if that's an issue. Then I found there's a crankcase breather on the block down by the distributor, its hooked to a vacuum line on the manifold so it's just one gaping vacuum leak. I imagine it should be hooked to the air cleaner lid (before the throttle plate) but there is no air cleaner so I plugged the hole in the block and took the oil filler cap off to let it breathe old school style. I hooked the egr vacuum line up but no idea if that does anything. Waiting for a new battery to try firing it up again...

The vacuum advance on the distributer was also running to the carb and not the manifold. I didnt know if the port on the carb was actually a vacuum port, or an port on the carb that NEEDS vacuum (i.e vacuum secondaires) so I plugged that for now and ran the advance right to the manifold.

This thing is a nightmare.
 

Josh B

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Looks to me like a vacuum advance on a distributor but I don't see no distributor there.
Used to be simple cable kits off the rack at parts stores that replaced the vacuum with a cable from the choke to the dash(for us shade tree mechanics I suppose). It worked well enough long as you didn't forget to open it on up after warm up, then it would just be sucking down the gas while you drove
 

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Here's what I'm working with in all its glory... I miss computers...

Screenshot_20191121-154403_Gallery.jpg
Screenshot_20191121-154546_Gallery.jpg
 

alwaysFlOoReD

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Looks to me like a vacuum advance on a distributor but I don't see no distributor there.
Used to be simple cable kits off the rack at parts stores that replaced the vacuum with a cable to the dash(for us shade tree mechanics I suppose). It worked well enough long as you didn't forget to open it on up after warm up, then it would just be sucking down the gas while you drove
You're thinking of a manual choke kit.

@Dirtman

Vacuum advance most times was hooked to a vacuum sourced from below the throttle plate. Should be fine to block it off for now. There are usually 2, 3, or more vacuum ports along the base of the carb. Some will be vacuum at idle, some at open throttle.
 

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These are the only 2 vacuum ports ON the carb, the red cap, and the one below is where the vacuum advance was connected.

Screenshot_20191121-155256_Gallery.jpg
 

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For the life of me I cant tell why a heater hose is running to the intake below the carb either. I'm guessing coolant circulates through the intake? The radiator isnt hooked up so deal with that later...
 

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Are we getting paid to fix this mess?

Looks like your getting an automotive ancient history lesson here.
 

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20 years ago I woulda had this done and running in 15 minutes. Seems I cant learn new things without forgetting old things...
 

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For the life of me I cant tell why a heater hose is running to the intake below the carb either. I'm guessing coolant circulates through the intake? The radiator isnt hooked up so deal with that later...
coolant does pass through the intake... its the bane of my existence because i've given up on trying so stop a leak from there
 

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It doesn't leak If you don't have a radiator.... :icon_rofl:
 

Zapper

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It doesn't leak If you don't have a radiator.... :icon_rofl:
it also doesn't leak if you make it air cooled..... well i have an idea for this engine before it gets its guts thrown across my driveway....
 

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Just fill the block with sodium like they do with exhaust valves.
 

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I think RonD is onto something with the accelerator pump. If I remember correctly... there is a spring on the fuel side of the diaphragm it could be damaged. I've seen them rusted in half. The lever pin and lever also get sticky and may not be allowing the diaphragm to return and refill. Spray some lube on it and work the lever from below.

I also remember converting the choke spring and cover from coolant to electric. I'm gonna guess that any choke cover will work from any Holley/Weber progressive 2bbl.

You also need to ensure the choke pull off is functional and opening up the choke plate once it fires and is making vacuum.
 


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