2.0L ('83-'88) 2.0 carbed to 2.3 efi help

[Jerrot]

Hey there, my 2.0 block decided to blow up recently. Finding a new to me 2.0 block in my area is proving to be near impossible.

There is however an early 80’s ranger with a 2.3 efi at a junkyard here where I can get the whole motor for cheap. I’m hoping someone can tell me where to look for a fairly in depth step by step of how to do that swap, going from carbed to efi. Is it just the ecu, fuse box, wire harness that I need? I read somewhere I might need the fuel tank/ pump?

thanks for any help!

 

[19Walt93]

The first thing I'd do is get an EVTM for your truck and one for the donor. The schematic is likely here in the tech library but, being an old guy, I'd want a paper manual so I can make notes in it and mark where I changed things. If you have to troubleshoot it years from now you'll be glad you have it. When the unobtainable boost sensor on my sons Turbo Coupe crapped out he swapped in a 302 I had, to remove the EEC IV harness I had to cut only 2 wires so adding it shouldn't be too bad either.
I'd convert the 2.3 to a carb instead of going with EFI, probably because I'm an old guy with decades of carb experience. Pintos, Mustangs, Fairmonts, and early 81-3 Granadas ran carbureted 2.3's with staged 2 barrel Webers. If you want to retain the Carter one barrel, a ton of 200 and 250 sixes ran them for years. The one barrel equipped trucks always felt like they had a little more low end power to me.

 

[RonD]

First EFI 2.3l in a Ranger was 1985

Yes, you will need the computer and its wiring harness
Also all the fuel lines, there will be a high pressure pump in the frame rail and then a Return line that runs from engine back to the gas tank so you will also need the pump assembly that has the "lift pump" and hook up for return line
Yes, and the wiring and relays on passenger side inner fender
It will be a bit of a chore in wiring which is why Walt recommends the EVTM for BOTH years of Rangers

But if you want EFI it can be done

Now the 2.0l and 2.3l used the same heads up thru 1988, so your 2.0l intake and exhaust will bolt to the 2.3l head, so yes, staying with a carb would be easier
You could switch to a 2 barrel carb with the extra displacement
Change the timing belt before installing the other engine
Also the rear main seal


Ranger 4cyl engine article here: https://www.therangerstation.com/tech/ford-ranger-4-cylinder-engines/

 

[Jerrot]

I appreciate both of you guys replying, it honestly just reaffirms that I want to stick to a carb for simplicity. I’m familiar with them, and don’t want to make more work for myself than I need too. I just use the truck as a woods buggy, so the cheapest and easiest route is where I want to go.
Is there a specific 2.3 carbed that I need to seek out, or would literally anything I find bolt right up to the transmission I currently have? It’s a four speed manual.
I hardly have an exhaust on the truck so getting the o2 sensors working would be a chore in itself.
The head unit and everything else I have from the 2.0 is in decent shape, so even if I can find a block from an 88 or lower 2.3 it should work fine? Would it matter if that block is efi or carbed?
I’m good at turning wrenches, but there’s a lot I’m learning with the compatibility here. Thanks again

 

[19Walt93]

I usually default to trying the cheap or free stuff first, why not bolt your 2.0 intake and carb on and see how it works?

 

[Jerrot]

Well I think I will give that a try then!

 

[scotts90ranger]

They changed the intake pattern when they switched to fuel injection, that's the main problem there, I think the carb got oval ports and injection went to D shape ports (or the other way around probably), but I do know they are different, then they changed again for the dual plug... The 2.0L head will bolt on a 2.3L though then you could do that fairly easy, it'll just have smaller valves...

 

[Jerrot]

Well that would be just as easy. Smaller valves shouldn’t cause too much issue? I don’t need it to run great, just need it to run

 

[Jerrot]

And to bolt the 2.0 head to to 2.3 block, it would have to be from a truck between 83-88 correct?

 

[scotts90ranger]

no, '83 to '94 the bottom end is pretty much the same (just make sure there's at least something sticking up where the distributor would be), only odd part is in '92 they switched to a round tooth belt for the timing belt but if you have both engines you have enough parts to go either way... (round tooth is technically better for longevity but you can put a round tooth belt on square gears if you wanted to mix and match) and anything I think '88 and newer will be roller cam so might as well throw that in too (easy swap while there...), in '86 the rear main seal changed along with the oil pan sealing setup so stick with the oil pan that came with the block...

Smaller valves shouldn't hurt anything, just use a head gasket for a 2.3L so the fire ring is in the right spot for the bore.

 

[19Walt93]

Well that would be just as easy. Smaller valves shouldn’t cause too much issue? I don’t need it to run great, just need it to run

Smaller valves won't make it run badly, they might push the torque curve a little lower in the rpm range because the intake charge will move faster through smaller passages. I can't leave well enough alone, if the head is off I'd do a valve job and have a machine shop plane the head to boost compression at the same time, if you don't mind buying higher grade gas. I've seen .030" taken off before.

 

[RonD]

In think the 2.3l Block lost the distributor hole in 1991/2

 

[scotts90ranger]

I could have swore it was '95ish when the oil pump moved to behind the aux pulley instead of having the dummy distributor drive since they also switched to the other crank sensor and added a cam sensor and reduced the valve stem diameters and such... either way, if there's a distributor hold down holding in a dummy thing (or has a cam sensor on it like some '94's are said to have kinda like a 4.0L or 5.0L) then you can put a distributor there... but then again that's dang near 30 years ago so who knows anymore

 

[Jerrot]

I was planning on getting the head machined, one of the pistons blew and left a bit of spatter. Thanks again guys, honestly the info here is all I need. It should be pretty easy to find a block, I’ve got a couple leads on a few of the u pulls around me. Happy easter, and happy 40th anniversary. I can let you all know how it works out in a few weeks if you like