1999 Ranger Transfer Case Motor Blue Thingy

[PaulZ]

Hi Guys,

I rebuilt my shift motor last year, didn't need it really perfect inside. Today I have the motor off again to check the plastic bushing on the big gear, also perfect. I understand there are some contacts inside the blue plastic dingus the wires go into. Does that come apart for cleaning?

Yes my 4wd is spotty, occasional blinking light syndrome.

Thanks

 

[RonD]

Do you mean the blue sensor plate, like this one has: https://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/images/TCaseshiftmotor1.JPG

They came in a few colors

If so then no I don't think those are meant to be serviced just replaced, its a sealed unit, as seen here: https://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/images/TCasemotordrivegear.JPG

On the newer or older ones they were serviceable, had an open contact wheel, like this under that cover:

https://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/images/rebuild_transfer_case_shift_motor/rebuilding_a_ford_transfer_case_shift_motor-6.JPG

And then the cover had the 5 or 6 contact/sensor pins that could be cleaned: https://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/images/rebuild_transfer_case_shift_motor/rebuilding_a_ford_transfer_case_shift_motor-3.JPG

Not sure the Blue one can be purchased separately, may need to hit wrecking yard if you think its bad

You can test the wires with ohm/continuity tester to see if the contacts are working
Yellow/white wire is the main wire
Other color wires should connect to the Y/W wire as you turn the shaft, as shown below
Its important that the shaft be re-set in the correct position on re-assembly

This is how the 4x4 controller can "see" what position the shift motor/transfer case shift rod is in
Yes, the flashing 4WD lights means either the shift motor is not moving OR the contacts/sensors are not changing like they should

 

[PaulZ]

Hi Ron,

Yep. that's the one I have. On the testing grid, what is Edge 1-2 etc?

 

[RonD]

As the shift motor moves the 4x4 Controller expects to "see" instant sensor change to the "edges" of each of the 3 selections, 2WD, 4H and 4L
Then it expects to see the contacts opening and closing, as shown, until it gets to the selected position

4H-4L is actually Neutral selection, although not a "setting" you can access without a no longer sold "neutral kit", it was use for flat towing of a 4WD Ranger automatic behind Motor homes

If you look at the transfer case with motor removed, Neutral is directly across from 2H, between 4H and 4L
Looks like this: https://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/images/rebuild_transfer_case_shift_motor/rebuilding_a_ford_transfer_case_shift_motor-2.JPG

In picture shift rod/transfer case is in 2H(2WD)
If you ever try to move the shift rod manually, which is fine to do, MAKE SURE WHEELS are blocked, because when you hit Neutral IT WILL ROLL AWAY, lol

 

[PaulZ]

Thanks Ron,

Boy that's complicated! Might try to test it tomorrow. I use 4WH about twice a week to get up the road to my cabin, and it works 90% of the time, but when it doesn't, like yesterday, I'm stuck. I hiked up and waited about 5 hours, came down and it worked. Wish I knew how to reset it, no amount of restarting, backing up, flipping the switch etc. seems to do anything, just has to sit. The only other electrical glitch it has is the radio as I've mentioned, which goes off and on but not at the same time as the 4wd, and I have checked the power wires to it (when it was dead) and all were OK, as was the ground.

I'm almost tempted to mount a lever to the transfer case with a rod through the rocker panel and manual shift it...

 

[RonD]

Actually for as many of these electric shift 4WDs were made(Ford F-series uses the same system) they are fairly reliable
Obviously Manual shift would be more reliable, until it isn't, lol, their shifters break as well or get loose, just way less likely because it's simpler

If you have manual hubs up front, just leave it in 4H all the time and unlock the hubs when you want 2WD
Until you get it sorted out
2001-2011 Rangers have front axles, differential and drive shaft always spinning, doesn't hurt a thing, in fact I think its better for keeping u-joints lubed than starting and stopping them randomly, the rear u-joints last a good long time as does the differential and they are full time engaged

 

[PaulZ]

I did convert to manual hubs, good idea leaving it in 4WH. Flipping the switch on the dash is handy though..

I see new complete motors for sale online for under $100, might be worth a splurge.

 

[PaulZ]

Can I drive around for testing without that weight bolted on below the shift motor?

 

[RonD]

Yes, you can leave the weight off

 

[PaulZ]

Just finished pulling the shift motor off, in the dirt, to get up to my cabin, on then one day I had a dentist appointment and was nicely dressed. Got the dreaded blinking lights when I tried to get 4WH. It was still in 2WH when I got the motor off. Shifted it with pliers and got up the hill.

So last time, a month ago, after checking that the plastic bushing was good and reassembling, it has been working perfectly up until today. One difference was I had to drive an additional 20 miles for the dentist trip (from my usual 20 mile commute), and when I pulled the motor off it was very hot, almost too hot to hold.

The motor looks perfect inside, brushes commutator etc., but I may go ahead and try a new one next.

 

[RonD]

Check fluid level in transfer case
Shift motor temp was from heat transfer, it's not generated by the electric motor itself

Hot electric motors draw higher AMPs and that motor should have thermal "switch" like power window motors do
So if it was too hot then it wouldn't work, and Flashing 4WD lights

 

[PaulZ]

Great thoughts Ron, thanks. I just checked the transfer case, full. Put the motor back on, store cold, working fine. Maybe it is heat related, and creates just enough to inhibit the motor. Next time it happens I'll cool the motor off somehow in situ and see if it helps. As I mentioned I have had the motor apart, brushes and commutator look new.. Don't mind buying a new one, if I knew for sure that was the problem.

 

[RonD]

That's pretty much dead air space under the vehicle when driving, not much air circulation
Could have been a hot day?
And the longer drive caused extra heat build up

Could try a couple of hose clamps and a metal "bar" on the motor to act as a heat sink, increase surface area to draw out heat and have more air contact

Cooling it down with a bottle of water might work but may take a few minutes
Depending on if the issue is in the case(field) windings being too hot or the rotor windings

 

[PaulZ]

Hey Ron, so the 4wd has been working last couple weeks. I've been carrying a heat gun. I did take one extra side trip on my cabin commute, and it did take a bit longer to go into 4WH when I arrived. I hit the motor with the heat gun, 114F. I'll sure be at the ready with it next time it acts up.