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1999 Ranger 3.0 vacuum issue & Engine overheating


McConnaha

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U.S. Military - Veteran
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Location
Fairborn, OH
Vehicle Year
1999
Make / Model
Ford Ranger
Engine Type
3.0 V6
Transmission
Automatic
2WD / 4WD
2WD
Hello All,

Just got this as my first DIY and learning a ton in the process. I am a computer nerd but have always been more of a fix it yourself kind of guy.
Trust me when I say, if you are reading this you know more than I, but I am willing to listen and learn.

Based on all that I have read and watched, here is where I am.
Vacuum issue:
1. Checked all lines concerning the vacuum system, none seem to have cracks or leaks coming from them.
2. Noticed everyone talking about Heater Valve Vacuum, but my truck does not have one. Figured out that someone had bypassed it and now the lines always run to the heater core(more on that later).
3. Finally found the vacuum reservoir, this took an embarrassing amount of time so its part of the step for me. Took off the incoming and noticed it had good suction, out going had nothing.
4. Ordered the vacuum reservoir and will update later this week when I put it on.

Engine is overheating:
1. After running for 20-30 mins and shutting off, noticed coolant was coming from the radiator cap and coolant reservoir. (Only used 50/50 to fill system)
2. Ordered a new cap for the radiator, seems to have stopped the coolant from spraying from the top. (after topping off the reservoir to the cold fill line)
3. Engine still not cooling properly. However it doesn't seem like I am leaking any coolant. Radiator fan seems to be working properly.
4. One thing I noticed is that I cannot get heat to come into the cabin. It is 85-90 degrees most days here so you would think this should be easy.
5. I noticed that the incoming heater core line is hot but the other is not. I am guessing something is blocking it so I will try a flush.
6. Ordered flushing tools for the heater core and will update after I flush it. Not even sure if the blockage could cause the engine to overheat, but there is no heater valve either as someone has bypassed this and plugged the vacuum line.

Any thoughts on any of this would be great, thanks for your time.
 


franklin2

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Bronco II
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Manual
Do you have a control valve in the heater core coolant lines? I think you mentioned it was disconnected? See if that is where the coolant flow is stopping.
 

franklin2

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P.S. I looked your truck up, you can buy a heater control valve for it so it must have come with one.
 

dvdswan

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Ranger XLT 2WD
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2WD / 4WD
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My credo
Keep your mind like an umbrella, it only works if its open... Continually learning.
Welcome to the site.

You may have a blocked heater core. Try swapping the hoses at the heater core if they are the same size.

To see if the fan clutch is working properly; on a cold engine spin the fan by hand, it should spin 2-3 times then stop. If it spins with little or no resistance, 4 or more times or doesn't spin at all, the fan clutch is worn or bad and needs replacement.
 

McConnaha

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U.S. Military - Veteran
Joined
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Location
Fairborn, OH
Vehicle Year
1999
Make / Model
Ford Ranger
Engine Type
3.0 V6
Transmission
Automatic
2WD / 4WD
2WD
Do you have a control valve in the heater core coolant lines? I think you mentioned it was disconnected? See if that is where the coolant flow is stopping.
Thanks for the reply. I have attached a couple photos.
I believe there was a control valve at one point, but I just got the truck this past month and have been working on/fixing different items, learning as I go.
Seems like someone bypassed the valve by taking it out completely. Let me know what you think of the photos.
 

Attachments

McConnaha

New Member
U.S. Military - Veteran
Joined
Jul 30, 2022
Messages
3
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Location
Fairborn, OH
Vehicle Year
1999
Make / Model
Ford Ranger
Engine Type
3.0 V6
Transmission
Automatic
2WD / 4WD
2WD
Welcome to the site.

You may have a blocked heater core. Try swapping the hoses at the heater core if they are the same size.

To see if the fan clutch is working properly; on a cold engine spin the fan by hand, it should spin 2-3 times then stop. If it spins with little or no resistance, 4 or more times or doesn't spin at all, the fan clutch is worn or bad and needs replacement.
Ordered a couple things to flush the heater core, ill update as soon as I do that this Thursday.
Hoses are the same size, I guess I could have just changed them before buying the flush kit but it was only $10-12 and I wasn't sure if I wanted the gunk that might come from the heater core to be in the system. (Any thoughts on this idea would be helpful.)

Thanks for the idea and information.
 

franklin2

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Location
Virginia
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1984
Make / Model
Bronco II
Transmission
Manual
Heater Hose

Removal


  1. Drain the radiator. For additional information, refer to Engine Cooling.

  1. Remove the air cleaner outlet tube (9B659). For additional information, refer to Intake Air Distribution and Filtering.

  1. If equipped with a 2.5L engine, remove the heater hose from between the heater core (18476) and the water diverter valve.




  1. If equipped with a 3.0L engine, remove the heater hose from between the heater core and the water diverter valve.




  1. If equipped with a 4.0L engine, remove the heater hose from between the heater core and the water diverter valve.




  1. If equipped with a 2.5L engine, remove the heater hose from between the water diverter valve and the water pump.




  1. If equipped with a 3.0L engine, remove the heater hose from between the water diverter valve and the water pump.




  1. If equipped with a 4.0L engine, remove the heater hose from between the water diverter valve and the water pump.
    • Remove the nut from the clip.





  1. If equipped with a 2.5L engine, remove the heater hose from between the water diverter valve and the water outlet.




  1. If equipped with a 3.0L engine, remove the heater hose from between the water diverter valve and the water outlet.




  1. If equipped with a 4.0L engine, remove the heater hose from between the water diverter valve and the water outlet.




Installation


  1. To install, reverse the removal procedure.
    • Lubricate the hoses and fittings with Rubber Suspension Insulator Lube E25Y-19553-A or equivalent meeting Fordspecification ESF-M99B112-A.




 

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