1999 B3000 mystery no-start

[mykle]

Hi all, first time here ... My '99 B3000 beater truck went on strike a week ago. It's never had trouble starting before, and now it refuses to turn over, I don't even hear a click. So I got out a Haynes manual and started checking all the systems ...

Battery: reads 12 volts. But I tried jumpstarting anyway, and still nothing.
Fuel pump inertia switch: was not tripped. I tripped it, saw FUEL PUMP light on dash, reset it. Made no difference.
Ignition switch: only a year old, and when I turn it the dash lights blink and the radio goes off, and the battery voltage drops a tiny bit. I think it works.
Clutch position switch: I unhooked it and wired a bypass. No change.
Starter relay: Tested, works. (I swapped it with the blower relay & the blower still works.)
I disconnected the battery leads for 60 seconds to reboot any computers that might be hiding in there. No change.

My wiring diagram suggests that there's an optional RAP module, but internet seems to think that's on the fancier models with power doorlocks. This truck is pretty vanilla, has no power anything. If there is a RAP module on this B3000, I can't find it. But the wire leading to the clutch position pedal is white/pink, and the wiring diagram suggests those colors come from a RAP module ... maybe there's some other antitheft device at work? I don't know where to start looking for that.

I haven't inspected the starter solenoid under the engine yet. But like I said, the truck was starting strong every time until it changed its mind a week ago. And now I hear absolutely nothing when the ignition turns. Would a starter solenoid die so suddenly, silently all at once like that?

Is there something else I can check? Are there other pieces of this circuit that might not be on my wiring diagram? I'm out of ideas, but I dread having it towed. Any advice appreciated!

 

[mykle]

Fuses: I forgot to mention that I tested them all with a multimeter, didn't find any that were blown.

 

[RonD]

Welcome to TRS

Battery should be 12.3volt to 12.8volt, not your issue but if its 12.0v then time for a new battery

I assume the dash lights come on with key on
1999 V6 Ranger will have PATS(passive anti-theft system), there will be a THEFT light on the dash, it should come on with key on and then go off, if it starts to flash rapidly then PATS has been activated and starter motor will be disabled, along with fuel pump and fuel injectors


Pull starter Relay again
Ford used 2 types of relays, Mini and Micro
Mini seen here: https://www.gtsparkplugs.com/images/mini-automotive-relay-wiring-840x.jpg
Micro here: https://www.gtsparkplugs.com/images/micro-automotive-relay-wiring.jpg

See which one they used for Starter Relay in your 1999

MAKE SURE MANUAL TRANSMISSION IS IN NEUTRAL

Use a jumper wire between slots 30 and 87 in the relay's base, starter motor should activate, if not starter motor is bad, not guessing
Starter motors can just fail one day
This will work to activate starter regardless of PATS or anything else, key on or off doesn't matter, IF starter motor is OK

If key was on then engine should start, so MAKE SURE ITS IN NEUTRAL!!!!!!

 

[mykle]

Thanks for the tip! I jumpered the starter relay and the engine cranked very strong ... but did not start. So the starter motor is fine.

I'm beginning to wonder if the previous owner might have hooked up some special ignition defeat trick or something. But I have searched throughout the cab, can't find anything like that.

 

[mykle]

I wonder if it's possible that I have a PATS system but the dash light for it is blown? I tried rebooting the whole car (unhooked battter) with no luck, and i've tried the nine-times-off-and-on thing, no luck either.

 

[RonD]

8 times on and off is to erase and add Fobs to keyless entry, so not for this
And it will erase all current Fobs.........................

You didn't say if all the dash lights come on with key on, thats a bulb test?

Get 1999 Ranger owners manual in PDF here: https://www.ranger-forums.com/general-technical-electrical-18/ford-ranger-owner-manuals-1996-2011-models-3747/

If you look on page 6 it shows the 2 instrument clusters that came in Rangers, with Tachometer and without
Without tach the THEFT Light is just below oil gauge
With tach the THEFT light is below speedometer just to the right of the Right Turn indicator

THEFT light should come on with key on, and then go off, if it doesn't come on the bulb may be burned out or PATS is damaged in some way

If you activated the starter motor with Key on, then engine should have started, if it didn't then yes, could be PATS issue

For PATS check fuses 19 and 25 in cab fuse box

Alarms(like RAP) only disable starter motor, Ford or 3rd party, PATS disables fuel pump and fuel injectors, so no start
You should HEAR the fuel pump run for 2 seconds with key on, its not quiet, a "click" and "huummmm" then off
Fuel pump uses mini fuse 9 in engine fuse box

 

[mykle]

I have the optional cluster with tach. When I switch the car on, various lights shine on the left (seat belt, check engine, check gage, battery, airbag) but nothing at all lights up on the right. Is there a fuse or other SPF for that side?

Fuse 19 is good. The slot for fuse 25 is unpopulated.
Actually all the fuses in that box tested good, but there's no fuses in slots 1, 5, 12, 18, 23, 25, 27, 31, 32, 34, 35, or 36.

I don't hear a fuel pump or any other click or hum when i turn the switch.

 

[mykle]

The section about PATS in the owners' manual suggests that there's some magic parts in the key and the ignition lock, like RFID or something? I replaced the ignition switch over a year ago, after a theft attempt shattered the old one. I bought a standard generic switch from NAPA. So I can imagine the PATS might have a cow over that. But it's been starting just fine for a year since!

 

[mykle]

Does the PATS receiver unit have some kind of antenna, that might have been damaged a year ago & only shaken loose recently?

 

[RonD]

Its antenna is around the ignition key slot in steering column, its called the Transceiver, 4 wire

It reads the RFID tag in the keys handle, no batteries needed

Looks like this on its own: https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/H~4AAOSwQOpeviAU/s-l1600.jpg

Like this installed: https://www.ranger-forums.com/attachments/8-cylinder-tech-34/207133d1501478610-photo-log-pats-installation-img_5225.jpg

 

[mykle]

I stuck a fuse in slot 25, but the right side of the instrument cluster still doesn't show any lights. Maybe a bad connection under the dash someplace? I've had the truck for 2 years & it's always been like that. Reading about the PATS system, it seems there's a lot that THEFT light could tell me, if it worked.

I'm going to borrow a code scanner this evening, maybe that will give me a clue. If not, I'll maybe have a look under the cowl and make sure that antenna wasn't damaged in last year's theft attempt. Other than that, I'm not sure what else to try.

Thanks for all the advice, Ron!

 

[mykle]

Well, here's a clue: P1260.

But I also found a Ford diagnostic article about PATS (No 01-6-2) that says when I find this P code from the PCM module, I should also be seeing some B codes from the PATS module itself. The scanner, plugged in the port beneath the instruments, only gave me this one. (I cleared it, but car still won't start.) Does the PATS module have a separate scan port?

 

[RonD]

No separate port, P, B, C and U codes all come thru the OBD2 port

Yes, PATS will set B codes to tell user why it was "activated" or not working

B1232/B2103 Transceiver internal antenna damaged. Replace transceiver.
B1342 ECU is defective (EEPROM in PCM is not working — replace PCM). PATS related when stored in PCM only.
B1600 Non-PATS Key or damaged key.
B1601 Unprogrammed encoded ignition key detected (leave ignition on for 20 seconds before trying a programmed key, in Anti-Scan Mode).
B1602 Partial detection of encoded ignition key.
B1681 Transceiver signal not detected.
B2141 Non-Volatile Memory (NVM) configuration failure — No PCM ID stored in PATS.
B2139/U2510 PCM ID does not match between the PCM and PATS control(PATS/ICM/VIC/HEC/SCIL).
B2431 Key program failure (defective key or transceiver).


If you have a working THEFT light it will also Flash a 2 digit code after 45 to 60 seconds with key left ON
1 Flash, short pause, 1 to 6 flashes, longer pause, repeats 3 or 4 times

11 Transceiver [transponder coil] not connected, or there is no power to it.
12 Transceiver internal fault.
13 No Key/no PATS key has been used to turn the ignition switch.
14 Incomplete key code received.
15 Invalid key code received.
16 CAN communications error.

After 3 or 4 attempts to START the engine with PATS activated, it goes in to LOCKDOWN MODE, you have to wait 90minutes for PATS to reset, unhooking battery doesn't help, in fact it just makes it longer as the timer stays at where it was and then starts again when battery is reconnected, so just WAIT it out, lol

 

[mykle]

I think I might have attempted to start it once this morning, but certainly not 3 or 4 times.

And I did wait 90 minutes before scanning again.

I'm still getting no codes except P1260 from the PCM, and P1000, which says something like "no engine data until you actually run the engine." Seems unrelated, unless evidence of a PCM failure?

I am getting no B or U codes at all.

It does suck that my THEFT light is not working. (Right hand side of instrument cluster, all lights are out.)

I wonder if the PATS module simply up and died?

 

[RonD]

Have you ever seen your OBD2 reader show B codes?
Not all readers can see C, B, or U codes, just P codes

Ford OBD2 list here, P, C, B and U codes: https://www.freeautomechanic.com/ford-codes.pdf

In engine bay Fuse box unplug the windshield wiper relays
Turn key on, and turn on wipers, or go for a drive if you don't need wipers
You will for sure get some B codes with wiper relays unplugged
Sanity test for GEM(body computer) and engine computer


P1000 means battery was disconnected and computer needs to run emissions tests once vehicle can be driven, can't effect engine operation