1998 & Newer specific Ranger problems.....

[2timerangerfan]

4WD "GEM" modules that frequently go bad (usually results in failure of the 4WD shifting into LO, but will still work in HI)

I've been having this problem but i wasn't sure why. Also I've experienced a few other problems
Problems starting when cold (replaced fuel pump)
Strange smoke coming from under hood passenger side (there was a valve leaking from the heating system onto the valve cover)

Also i'm having some trouble with the front suspension but that is a service issue on my end ( i know i should be ashamed to admit it)

 

[2timerangerfan]

air bag light

I've been reading a lot about this air bag light. I had the same problem and it bothered me until I started assembling cars for an unamed import car manufacturer. I install seats and I know if you don't completely seat the plugs underneath the seat that light will come on occasionally. I worked with mine a little and I've had no trouble since

 

[FlyinRyan]

'98 Mazda B2500, 5sp, 2WD.

Since I've had it in '09

- Piston from wheel cylinder ripped its way through the boot and got eaten up. Paid about $25 for a piece of metal smaller than my pinkie.

- New parking brake cables

- Front stabilizer bar link (pass.)

- Tie rod end (pass.)

- Upper ball joint (pass.)

- Blower Motor Resistor and Harness

- Licence Plate light

- Exhaust flange gasket

- Catalytic Converter

- Alternator is just about gone. Making a horrible whine but still works.


Not sure why the passenger side suspension is wearing so fast...
I get the driveshaft clunk too
Getting a rattling when I'm going up hill in fourth, think it's my throwout bearing from what I've read - it sounds like someone shaking a metal rake.

 

[cheenulee]

1998 Mazda B4000, bought used in 2009, 14x,xxx miles, auto trans, 4WD. Since its been mine, I've:

-replaced drivers side O2 sensor (CEL)
-replaced thermostat
-replaced front brake pads and rotors
-replaced bad power steering pump (still noisy!)
-greased slip yoke (got rid of take-off/stopping thump and a really annoying whistling sound - drove me crazy) - update - whistling sound is back

still to do:
-replace front and rear shocks
-reseal rear window, leaks during rain

 

[cheenulee]

'98 Mazda B2500, 5sp, 2WD.

Since I've had it in '09

- Piston from wheel cylinder ripped its way through the boot and got eaten up. Paid about $25 for a piece of metal smaller than my pinkie.

- New parking brake cables

- Front stabilizer bar link (pass.)

- Tie rod end (pass.)

- Upper ball joint (pass.)

- Blower Motor Resistor and Harness

- Licence Plate light

- Exhaust flange gasket

- Catalytic Converter

- Alternator is just about gone. Making a horrible whine but still works.


Not sure why the passenger side suspension is wearing so fast...
I get the driveshaft clunk too
Getting a rattling when I'm going up hill in fourth, think it's my throwout bearing from what I've read - it sounds like someone shaking a metal rake.

FlyinRyan - try greasing the slip yoke. Got rid of my driveshaft clunk. Google "greasing slip yoke" and it should pop right up.

 

[theboatcapt]

1998 Ranger 4 x 4 XL 4.0 problems

Hi Guys, I still have to say that if I had read this site before, I would not own this Ranger after.
FIRST- VACUM HUBS-The single biggest problem and until they produce metal warn type manual Locks the problem will continue. I changed to AVM. They work but I don't think they will stand up in heavy off roading ? Wheres the best place to shut off the vacum on the hubs? I removed the vacum hose from the hub and plugged it with a rubber cap from Auto Zone. They have the asst pack thats best. I also used one of these plugs from the asst pack to close off the hose I removed from the hub.

Second-Brakes- The rear brake drum hardware design is not good and hard to get on straight.

Third -Front Suspenion, Ball Joints and A arm bushings .Mine are shot, big problem and I cant find a good guided illustration to repair. There are so many squeaks I can't tell where the noise is coming from.
It sounds like a bunch of short legged Beagles in high water !!!!!!!!!!!!

Forth- Clunking drive shaft or somewhere in the driveline? Have not fixed yet.
Fith- A grease seal behind the front bearing assy ? Can't Find ? It squeals.
Sixth-Everytime I read this forum I trust this truck less.

 

[theboatcapt]

1998 Ranger 4x4 4.0 Automatic MPG

What is the real life mpg on this truck. I get 14 sometimes city or 15 highway? tks Chuck

 

[JoshT]

FIRST- VACUM HUBS-The single biggest problem and until they produce metal warn type manual Locks the problem will continue. I changed to AVM. They work but I don't think they will stand up in heavy off roading ? Wheres the best place to shut off the vacum on the hubs? I removed the vacum hose from the hub and plugged it with a rubber cap from Auto Zone. They have the asst pack thats best. I also used one of these plugs from the asst pack to close off the hose I removed from the hub.

Second-Brakes- The rear brake drum hardware design is not good and hard to get on straight.

Third -Front Suspenion, Ball Joints and A arm bushings .Mine are shot, big problem and I cant find a good guided illustration to repair. There are so many squeaks I can't tell where the noise is coming from.
It sounds like a bunch of short legged Beagles in high water !!!!!!!!!!!!

Forth- Clunking drive shaft or somewhere in the driveline? Have not fixed yet.
Fith- A grease seal behind the front bearing assy ? Can't Find ? It squeals.
Sixth-Everytime I read this forum I trust this truck less.

First - AVM style hubs are you only choice for the 98-mid 2000, and no other companies are going to make them. The only other option for these year models are either swap in a solid axle (research it) or swap in the cv joints, knuckles, and hubs from a later model. Doing the former is alot of work to get it right but you'll have strong lockouts, the latter is easier but you'll have live axles. There are a lot op people out there that have put the AVM hubs through some tough stuff, and they have held up well.

Second - The rear drum brake is the exact same design that had been used on nearly every Ford since the 80s probably longer than that. You're the first person that I've heard complain about it. IF you really don't like it later model Rangers came with disks, as well as Explorers since 96. The axles can be swapped, or some of the brakes can be swapped onto your axle.

Third - Already discussed, but I'll say it again. Get a Chilton's manual form the auto parts store.

Fourth - Somebody in the other thread already mentioned that one. There's a slip yoke in the rear drive shaft that needs greased.

Fifth - Not sure about that one. Reference number three.

Sixth - Maybe stop reading the forums? Only solution I can think of for that one.

If you got any more questions about these I'd recommend searching or creating new threads in the proper forum.

 

[rukie]

98 Ranger 2wd 2.5L, 5 spd
Cracked head and burnt valves at 190,000 miles (pinned, resurfaced, valve job)
Door Light (Damn thing)
The balancey weight thing on the drive shaft broke off (vulcanized rubber attached it)

Definitely agree with the noisy power steering

New ball joints (my fault, hit a curb in snow)

Other than that no problems!

Edit:
Seized caliper up front: Used a torch to loosen it up, neverseized it, good as new.

 

[fordmanms]

99 Ranger Problems

As most have mentioned, door switch leaving dome light/door ajar warning lamp on at times, goes off after a few minutes,
3.0 Flex Fuel Injectors, I had to replace 2 at one time and one of the replacements later on after using E-85 (crappy fuel)
leaking pinion seal (what do you expect for a 110000 mile vehicle
Poor gas mileage with regular unleaded (10 - 15% ethanol) because of this, i switched to non ethanol fuel (cost 5-10 cents more) but got 30 - 50 more miles per tank (big difference in performance too)

other than that, really good pick up.

 

[Charleserion]

I have my 2001 and 1999 in random order until the third chair.

It 'happened a couple of times a year.
__________________
Bronco II, 1989, 2.9l, manual Trans and T-case, manual hubs | 2004 Tahoe Z71, 5.3l 4L60E, AutoTrac 4WD, leather, Bose, DVD loaded.

 

[SeanWilson]

Im rocking a 98 4.0L 4x4 with ABSOLUTELY no power anythings, lowest model possible..
1. the automatic 4x4 selector switch and electronic 4x4 module on the transfer case
2. leaking rear windows (i replaced my seal, RTV’d my 3rd light and even am RTving my whole inner window around the metal.
3.weak Ebrake
4. the shity weak super expensive hub/bearing.

those are some of the things ive noticed on my own in the last 3 yrs

 

[jafledd]

I have had the AVM hubs grenade while doing upper and lower ball joints.
I have 75k on my 99 Ranger and need to adjust the lash on or replace the push rods
It is time to replace the shocks on my trk and the options for my trk with the superlift 4.5in lift are less than stellar .
Other than the fact that you need to have some G2 (common sense/skill) to mod you late model ranger it isn't impossible.

 

[BFRXLT]

'04 4.0 XLT 4dr. with 92k miles

So far I've had to replace:
Both tie rod ends
AC compressor

All of the above was done under warranty.

Problems I've noticed:

The rear slider will not seal for some reason. It has been tried several time. It only leaks air, not water.

There is a squeaking/moaning sound coming from the front suspension somewhere. I can only hear it at low speeds.

I don't baby this truck and have towed quite a lot with it. It has been an excellent truck so far.

One thing I didn't mention it the stock radio quit ejecting CD's. I just put an aftermarket radio in which I wanted to do anyway.

 

[bugnout]

1999 splash 4DR 2WD 3.0 Flexfuel, purchased new, now:125000 miles

-Ball joints failed at 70k
-Steering rack failed at 35k
-Dome light door switches every 20k or so
--just dowse them with half a can of WD40 and they work for another 20k
-Dash lights started burning out around 70k, I'm down to a handful, really need to dig in and replace them all.
-Replaced plug wires aroudn 90k

Thats pretty much all I've done to it. Very reliable transportation