1998 manual Ranger won't go into gear while running

[NoRangerDude]

Hey everyone,
So my friend has a 1998 manual ranger with the 2.5l engine and 5 speed manual transmission. Today her vehicle just decided to stop working. It won't go into gear while the clutch is depressed and the engine is running, but it will when the engine is off. We didn't see any leaks on the slave cylinder and the reservoir looked fairly full. The fluid is very old though. The odd thing is that the clutch still has resistance exactly like it did before. I am currently thinking that the slave cylinder is shot but I don't think it wouldn't have pressure in the clutch if that's the case.
Any thoughts? We're going to bleed it again tonight and see if that helps.

 

[Uncle Gump]

Does the transmission have any lube in it.

Will it go in any gear?

 

[RonD]

Get a pan, go under the truck and open the Bleeder Valve on the slave, fluid should flow out slowly, this will let out any air
Called Gravity Bleeding
Close valve

Press down pedal a few times
Start engine and see if it goes into gear now

Yes, in general the pressure you feel in the pedal are the springs on the pressure plate as the slave expands

It is possible for master's piston seal to leak, so the pressure you feel is the piston going down as fluid flows past it to top of master, but there should be fluid around the pedal's push rod, and pedal would be slow to come back up

 

[K B Tidwell]

Take a pair of vise grips and GENTLY squeeze the rubber part of the supply line going from the master to slave cylinder just to the point where fluid flow is cut off. You don't want to kink or tear it! If your clutch pedal is hard and won't go down the master is good. If it still goes to the floor then the master is bypassing. Usually if the slave is the problem you will definitely have some leakage down there, so my gut says it's the master.

 

[pjtoledo]

the pilot bearing seizing the input shaft can do that too.

 

[NoRangerDude]

So we bled it properly using directions from the ranger station, and the fluid came out black, really thick and had pieces of gunk in it. I'm thinking we should go ahead and replace the slave and master and do the clutch while we're in there (she needs a new one anyway).
Are there any hydraulic lines that I should replace?

 

[NoRangerDude]

Does the transmission have any lube in it.

Will it go in any gear?

I don't know

Yes, but only when it's not running

 

[sgtsandman]

So we bled it properly using directions from the ranger station, and the fluid came out black, really thick and had pieces of gunk in it. I'm thinking we should go ahead and replace the slave and master and do the clutch while we're in there (she needs a new one anyway).
Are there any hydraulic lines that I should replace?

If you get the kit with both the master and the slave cylinder, it should come with the line.

Most of the master cylinders come with the line, if bought separately but keep an eye out and make sure so you’re not caught flat footed.

 

[NoRangerDude]

If you get the kit with both the master and the slave cylinder, it should come with the line.

Most of the master cylinders come with the line, if bought separately but keep an eye out and make sure so you’re not caught flat footed.

Awesome, because we just bought the kit last night.

 

[Josh B]

Can you bleed it all together before you put it in? That might save you a couple of takes in the remove and install department. Even better if you can rob the foot pedal plunger from the old master cylinder and use it (remove any locking apperatus from the plunger so it can be removed from the master cylinder) bleed it and install it before inserting the permanent plunger rod. Otherwise you will find a problem installing it with pedal rod already locked in

 

[sgtsandman]

You can bleed the system some and you absolutely have to bench bleed the master cylinder if the manufacturer doesn’t say it has been already. There is a ton of videos on how to do that on youtube.

Even if you bleed the system before install, you will need to bleed it again since you have to disconnect the line in order to install the slave cylinder. Air will be reintroduced into the system due the the line disconnection.

Better to gravity bleed the system after it’s all been installed.

 

[Josh B]

I guess none of the others have that glitch like the 93, the master cylinder on it is near impossible to fully bleed on the truck

 

[sgtsandman]

I guess none of the others have that glitch like the 93, the master cylinder on it is near impossible to fully bleed on the truck

A lot of master cylinders come bench bled out of the box now. I still do it anyway just to be sure. I don’t want to install it and then have to remove it again because the manufacturer either lied or did a poor job.

 

[Shran]

I don't know

Yes, but only when it's not running

I would advise you to check the fluid level... there are two plugs that look like big bolts on the driver's side of the transmission, it should be full up to the bottom edge of the top plug.

Only mentioning this because these transmissions are notorious for leaking out of the shift rail plugs, running low and then locking up. You can top off or drain/refill with Dex/Mercon ATF.

 

[NoRangerDude]

Completely forgot to update this thread!
We changed the clutch, slave, and master cylinder and bled everything. She's back up and running again so it must have been a clutch hydraulic system issue. Thanks for the advice everyone!