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1998 3.0L Oil Pan replacement


SteveH

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Hi,

New here - just signed up after 'lurking' for a year or two - picked up a lot of great tips from the forums.

My 1998 4x4 3.0L oil pan has rusted out, and it's got the point where I have to replace it over the next few days. I've already got a new pan, and the felpro rubber gasket, but looking at the forums I'm not certain on the following two issues:

1) Can I replace the pan without removing the motor? I realize I have to lift it, but some posters indicate that (on a 98) it's pretty easy - detach motor mounts, manifolds and lift the motor 'just' a few inches. Others indicate the motor is going to have to come out (I just know other stuff is going to break if I do that). I'm also not clear if I have to detach the transmission.

2) I've got a grey rubber fel-pro gasket (one piece, came with new bolts). Should I use RTV on that at all? (Never used a rubber gasket before, and it didn't come with any instructions)

Apologies if this is on the forums elsewhere - I found several other threads, but it wasn't always clear which year/model they were talking about, and some of the answers seems to contradict each other... Feel free to point me at the answer if it's already posted.

Thanks in advance

Steve
 


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stingray

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rusted oil pan

steve, i just replaced my friends oil pan and gasket in his 2000 ranger 4x4. i never removed nor lifted the motor due to like you said broken things such as manifold bolts. ford manifold bolts break off very easily. however what i did due was removed the front differential, made it very easy to replace oil pan and gasket,(used rubber gasket w/no silicone) i know this sounds like a job but it really isn't that complicated. beats the hell out of breaking off bolts that you can't get to.
 

fourwheelford

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I changed mine in my 2000 by dropping the pan down and unbolting the tranny and sliding it back about a inch its kind of a pain but it beat the hell out of removing the motor my truck has a lift so I had a cross member in the way.
 

SteveH

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Thanks for the replies.

Unfortunately I'd already decided would go ahead and lift the motor, separating it from the transmission, but keeping it within the engine bay. This turned into a 8 day saga...

I had to cut the bolts holding the manifolds to the catalytic converter to lift the motor, and then had to get the manifolds off the engine (to remove the cut bolts), I broke about half the studs. I then spent a day removing the studs, and on the last one I broke off an Easyout. A big thank-you to however invented carbide drill bits and the Dremel!

Then (with the engine still lifted, but in the bay) I replaced the oil-pan - but managed to break off one of the new bolts supplied with the pan. To get that out I had to remove the motor completely. I found that the reason it had broke was because the new bolts were about 1/2" longer than the old ones (which is apparently an official ford recommendation), but 3 of the holes in my block weren't tapped to that depth!. I re-fitted with a mixture of old and new bolts.

There were many other trials along the way (why does Ford use an SAE thread on the power steering pulley shaft, when everything else is metric...), but the motor is now back in and (literally) started at the first turn of the key with no problems or leaks.

-Steve

PS found this http://www.enginebuildermag.com/Article/60908/ford_30l_revised_oil_pan_gasket_replacement.aspx item on how the gasket should be fitted (RTC only where the main bearing carriers joint the block). I followed these instructions. If I have any issues I'll be sure to post.
 
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fourwheelford

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Wow you did take he long route huh? :) Well the main thing is that you got it done and its not leaking, did you happen to replace the rear main seal while you were in there? I vowed to do that if I ever have to have the motor or tranny out.
 

SteveH

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No....I didn't replace anything other than the oil pan and gasket (and the Power Steering pulley, that had a chip out of it). I guess I now I have something else to worry about :)

I'm also going to have to re-charge the aircon - the radiator fan would not come off the water pump pulley, and so I had to remove the motor with it in place, which meant disconnecting one of the aircon hoses.
 

the_orangutan

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Hey Steve I have a '98 as well, just embarked on a clutch replacement, and now looking at the engine it seems replacing the oil pan and valve gaskets would be prudent as well.

Got 2 exhaust bolts fastening the y-pipe to the manifolds. The bolts on the driver's side are rust-fused and rounded at the head, it's a stoopid tight situation. Been PB blasting all week, any recommendations for defeating these bastard bolts?

Also, how did you jack up the engine when you changed the oil pan? Or did you replace the pan with the engine completely out?
 

SteveH

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Hey Steve I have a '98 as well, just embarked on a clutch replacement, and now looking at the engine it seems replacing the oil pan and valve gaskets would be prudent as well.

Got 2 exhaust bolts fastening the y-pipe to the manifolds. The bolts on the driver's side are rust-fused and rounded at the head, it's a stoopid tight situation. Been PB blasting all week, any recommendations for defeating these bastard bolts?

Also, how did you jack up the engine when you changed the oil pan? Or did you replace the pan with the engine completely out?
Wow, this brings back memories.

If I recall, I disconnected the manifolds from the head, and lifted the motor out, leaving he manifolds connected to the Y-pipe. I then took the manifolds and the Y-pipe out together, and got the bolts out on the bench (lots of heat, pb blaster and elbow torque!).

I initially kept the motor in the engine bay, but suspended higher than normal on an engine hoist. However, once I broke off one of the new bolts holding on the pan I just pulled the motor out all the way so I could get to that and replace it.

I sold the Ranger about 18 months later; the New England winters were just too much for it. I've now got a Nissan Frontier, which I've sprayed and injected with wax to stop it going the same way. I do miss the Ranger though....seems they just don't make small trucks any more.

-Steve
 


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