1996 Ranger manual hubs - remove question,socket.

[cnord]

I have a 96 Ranger with factory manual hubs. I need to remove the brake rotors. The question: Is the locknut socket (Ford T86T 1197 A ,4 pin) required to remove the hubs? I can't find any definitive information indicating it is required for the 96 model....I suspect it is.

 

[RonD]

Never used a larger socket, shouldn't be that tight for holding a wheel bearing.

You do need to slide out the keeper wedge from the slot

Pictures here: http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/howto_hubswap.shtml

Then a pair of channel locks should loosen nut if it is tight

Rotors are part of the wheel hub

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

@RonD; I think your describing auto hub. It uses a hex drive socket for the nut. But the only time I worked on one was to break the nut because I didn't know about the wedge.

@cnord; If the bearing is retained with a 4-pin locknut then you do need the proper tool to to torque the locknut properly. And the TRS tech article recommended torque is 250 ft-lbs not the book 150 ft-lbs.

 

[adsm08]

Yes, you need that socket. Otherwise you will damage the outer nut taking it off and not get it torqued correctly putting it on. The socket is not expensive and well worth having if you own the truck so just go get it.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

I just recently used a locknut socket of the type shown in the OP's link. It liked to slip off easily. I wonder if one like in the pic below would be better at not slipping off?

 

[jeremysdad]

I just recently used a locknut socket of the type shown in the OP's link. It liked to slip off easily. I wonder if one like in the pic below would be better at not slipping off?

Yes, better at not slipping off. But, the stock inner nut is slightly bigger than the outer and the socket only fits the outer, at least the one I got at Advance Auto.

 

[cnord]

socket

>well worth having if you own the truck so just go get it

I agree, one more piece of kit for the tool box.

Thank you for the reply.

Chris

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

Pulling hubs in JY's they all but fall apart. I have never needed the socket (or had one handy for that matter) to take one apart.

I do use the socket to torque the nuts on my '85 though.

 

[cnord]

spindle socket for 1996 Ranger, D35 with manual hubs

Socket gurus -

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/wmr-w1269

The w1269 looks has a the flange around the 4 pins -- I like this. Does the increased diameter (flange) prevent this from accessing the spindle nut on the D35?

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/otc-7270a

Part 7270 is a direct replacement for the Ford par T86T 1197 A.

The w1269 is less expensive and maybe the flange will hold the socket better when re-torquing; but if its not going to fit...its not going to fit.

Recommendations?

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

I just bought the two I thought looked the most promising from the local O'Rielly's and returned the one that didn't fit the next day

 

[4x4junkie]

The W1269 is the socket i use for mine.

As said above, it doesn't fit around the D35 inner nut, but the inner nut normally isn't tightened very tight (35 ft-lbs to seat bearings, followed by loosening and re-torquing to 15 inch-lbs, which is possible to do with a hammer & punch or screwdriver. No it is not the "correct" way to do it, but the fact the socket grips the outer nut so well IMO more than makes up for it.
I guess more "proper" would be to have one of each type of socket...
Trying to get 225-250 ft-lbs onto the outer locknut using a socket with just the 4 prongs sticking off the end will likely demonstrate just how high your level of frustration can go before throwing the thing and destroying something you didn't mean to lol.