2.3L ('83-'97) 1996 2.3 top transmission bolts

[Kailash]

Well after hours of rolling in dirt get I'm calling it a day. Any tips of pulling top 2 transmission bolts ? I know some people use super long extensions from the back, but it doesn't seem like there is a path. I'm considering cutting out some of the floor cause I got work Monday .

Thanks

 

[Kailash]

I guess real question is can the transmission be installed solo?

 

[scotts90ranger]

Those top two bolts are tough, I haven't looked on my '97 but there isn't some bracket around them is there? There is on the V8 Explorers...

If you get the transmission mount unbolted and drop the back of the transmission it might help some but I've been able to do it from the bottom reaching up with a ratcheting 1/2"/13mm wrench (either one, apparently they're a small 13mm) or it'll take longer but a regular wrench would work too.

Yes it can be installed solo, it's a pain, there's nothing flat on the bottom of the trans to get a normal jack under so that's tough but in the past I've used ratchet straps looped over the top of the frame from the inside and hooked to the bottom and used those to hoist a trans up, conveniently they're only about 75 pounds.

 

[tomw]

To gain a bit better access to the top two, you can remove one or both rear crossmember support bolts. Mine came out cleanly after 30+ years, but CA & GA were less salty than other states. That will allow a bit of sag, not dangerous to anything, even the front two motor mounts. You will be able to see the top two. I think. Use a long 1/2" drive extension, or several 3/8" extensions, and crank on them. HF makes some extensions that have a semi-wobble function that allows the socket to sit cocked on the end of the extension. That little bit of wobble allows the socket to fit straight onto the head of the bolt while the extension is at a bit of an angle. If you push the socket on the extension tightly, it will sit straight, so you don't lose that function. The small set as around $10 for half, three eights and quarter inch sized, 9 extensions total.
I used a couple long extensions to reach over the top of the transmission up to the top two/three/four depending.
You may have to use a breaker bar to have enough leverage to break the bolts loose. A length of pipe on a breaker bar will give you even more leverage.
tom

 

[Kailash]

Thanks guys I got it out and as well as pilot bearing. First screw in rear main just ripped so we'll see

 

[Kailash]

Got out the rear main but nicked the back with screw tip. How big an oopsie ?

 

[scotts90ranger]

I wouldn't worry about it, I think that's just either the crankshaft or rear main cap, either isn't a wear point...

 

[tomw]

I R&R's a 4 speed on my chest or belly when I replaced the clutch. I unscrewed the shift lever fromthe top to avoid messing with the floor covering, and just left it hanging.
You may be able to rent a transmission jack from a parts store, bring back intact and you get a refund.
I just figured out 'rear main' that got ripped was the rear main seal.
The major problem in stabbing the trans back is getting the clutch splines aligned with the trans input shaft. I have put the trans in direct(4th) and shoved the drive shaft onto the output shaft to be able to twist the input and get the splines aligned. Then fitting the shift mechanism to 4th is more fun, but more doable than trying to rotate the input shaft in neutral.
I've done this stuff too many times...
tom

 

[Kailash]

I got it all installed, basically made a transmission jack out of 2x6 boards. I think my mistake was trying to get the top bolts out at night. Next morning when I could actually see they came out easy

 

[Slaer806]

1in ratchet straps going over the frame work better than any transmission jack if you ask me, holds the weight and gives you that wiggle room to get her lined up.

 

[RayInStl]

For anyone else that might find this thread on google, I have a process that works with minimal frustration as long as you have a bunch of extensions and a swivel adapter. It goes like this: put the socket on the swivel and add about 2.5-3ft of extensions. Then, from under the truck, just behind the transmission cross member, you should be able to see one of the top two bolts. You have to move to the other side of the transmission to see the other. Feed the socket and extensions over the cross member and up to the bolt. Spin the setup until the swivel straightens out enough that you can get the socket on the bolt. Attach your socket wrench and remove the bolt.

Looks like this:

Then just move to the other side and repeat the process. It sounds complex, but it's really not. The hardest part is getting the swivel to cooperate while you're getting the socket on the bolt.

 

[SenorNoob]

Easiest with a helper...

 

[RayInStl]

Very true!

 

[scotts90ranger]

That doesn't always work but yes, that's what I did last time, swivel sockets instead of a swivel adapter makes it nicer in most cases and the locking extensions that are long instead of a string of wobbly as heck 3-6" extensions is MUCH nicer to deal with but I'm getting older and have a large array of tools now instead of trying to use some random garage sale or whatever stuff in gravel like I did on my first two clutches like 20 years ago...

Sometimes the only thing that works is to just give up for the night like the OP and come back in the morning and things will just magically work, other times that backfires..