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1995 Ranger XLT 4.0L Electrical Problems? Battery not holding charge.


Jocelynrae

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Hi, yes I am having some problems figuring out what the exact problem is with my 1995 Ford Ranger XLT 4.0. My Ranger had been sitting for approximately 4 years while I did some time. Durning my time, my father changed the Starter and bought a new battery. Now that I am home, I took it for a spin. I only made it approximately 10 miles before the truck died on me. Once popping the hood and checking the battery terminals everything looked fine, i tried to start the truck and the battery was completely dead. Now while inside my father kept telling me that my battery wouldn't hold charge and he assumed it was the radio sucking it down because it was never actually driven. But the radio turns off, so I never thought that was it. So I was broke down on the side of the RD and got a jump, as well as let my battery charge up, but yet again once on the rd, my truck died within 5 miles. Once jumped though, I did a test with the negative cable, disconnecting it lead to the entire truck dying as well, telling me the alternator was bad. So I replaced it with a brand new one. Yet still when disconnecting the negative cable the truck dies. I am not sure what the problem could be. There are multiple different things online. I really wanted to reach out to someone who could help me!! Please if you have any information about this, reply and I will be here waiting! Thank you so much.
 


RonD

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Welcome to TRS :)

DO NOT do that anymore, the disconnecting of the negative battery terminal while engine is running, that was a test for the OLD pre-1985 charging systems with external voltage regulators
You can fry the electronics if you do that on a 1985+ vehicle
So just an FYI

In a 1995 Ranger check fuse 17 in Engine fuse box, 15amp fuse
Check fuse 15 in CAB fuse box, also 15amp

If either is blown then alternator will not work

You need to get a volt meter, set to DC Volts
Your "new" battery is drained so hard to test if its still OK
A good battery will look like this
12.8volts is a new battery
12.5v is a 3 year old battery
12.3v is a 5/6 year old battery and time to shop for battery sales

12.2v or lower is a dead or failed battery

You can test a battery by recharging it then let it sit for an hour, unhooked from a vehicle, test voltage, lets say its 12.6v
Wait 3 hours(or more, more is better) and retest, if it is lower then battery is bad, its self draining, so has a internal short

Batteries use a chemical reaction to store and release voltage, they run out of chemicals after 5 or 6 years BUT, draining them too low or OVER charging them uses up the chemicals faster, so the 5/6 year life span is if there are no other electrical issues

Yes the radio and the computer in a 1995 have 12v power all the time, also keyless entry if so equipped
So if a vehicle will be sitting longer than 4 months it best to unhook one of the battery cables
Radio uses 12v to hold presets and clock
Computer uses 12v to hold engine operation memory
Keyless entry must "stay awake" 24/7 or pressing button on a fob wouldn't unlock doors


Testing charging system on any Ford, 1985 and up
Use alternators case as the ground for testing
Test battery voltage FIRST, lets say is 12.4volts
Key OFF

On the back of alternator is B+, stud and nut terminal, test voltage on this terminal, should be 12.4v(battery volts), leave wire(s) attached for test
If not the Fusible link is blown

Remove 3 wire connector on alternator
Test Yellow wire, should see 12.4volts, if not fuse 17(1995) is blown

Test Green wire, should be 0 volts
Turn key ON
Retest green wire, should now be 12.3 or .4 volts, if not fuse 15 in cab is blown

If all 3 wires test OK, start engine

Test battery volts, should now be 14.3-14.8volts, recharge mode for voltage regulator
Let engine idle for 5 min
Retest battery voltage, should now be UNDER 14volts, 13.5-13.8volts is OK
Over 14volts for too long will "cook" the battery, use up the chemicals
 

Jocelynrae

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Everything checks out except I'm not getting any voltage to the B+ stud and nut. Where is the fusible link? Also under the hood there is not a #17 fuse slot. It only goes up to 14. All the fuses in the cab that you listed are good. Battery is good. Yellow and green wire for alternator are good. What about the white wire with black strip? What Is that suppose to read? Thank you so much for helping me! One thing i saw on a video was something about a ground? He had 2 wires coming from his negative cable. I only have the one.
 

Jocelynrae

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Also the B+ big nut on alternator doesn't have a wire connected to it at all. My dad has a Ford F-150 and his big nut on his alternator does have a wire connected and is getting battery voltage to it. So this has to be my problem.
 

RonD

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Yes, that would be the problem, for sure

Should be a Black/orange stripe wire, larger wire than the others, with an "eye" connector on the end

On the inner fender is the starter relay, called a solenoid in the old days
It will have a larger post with battery positive cable attached.........and several other wires on that same post, this one post is the 12volt Power distribution point for the whole vehicle

The black/orange wire(B+) would connect to that post via a Fusible link
A Fusible link is a short wire, 6" maybe, that acts like a fuse but can tolerate higher amps for a short period
Fusible link should be a grey colored wire on that post

Starter relay post------fusible link---------(splice)------black/orange wire------------B+ alternator

Most wiring in a vehicle is 14 or 12gauge, battery cable wires are 4 or 2 gauge, the B+ wire will be 8 gauge usually, so larger than other wires in the vehicle, except battery cables

Picture of wires here: https://i.pinimg.com/originals/e8/21/f1/e821f1e75b967b7980936f8ae1d79d32.jpg

Vehicles all use stranded wires, houses use solid for most wiring
 

Jocelynrae

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Something is draining my battery, even when not on or driving anywhere. Just by having both terminals connected to battery. After so many hours the battery is completely dead. What could be draining this battery like that?
 

RonD

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The battery can be self draining
Disconnect from vehicle, and test voltage
Come back in a few hours and test again, if its lower battery is bad, self draining

You can also test after just a few minutes, if its lower its self draining

When a car battery is drained low, which has happen to this one a few times, it can get a short inside one of it cells, so battery is always "on" has current flowing even when its not hooked up to anything

A car battery is made to release 75amps quickly to start the engine, then to be recharged for the next time its needed
Its not made to be drained slowly until its dead, and then recharged, that causes issues

Deep Cycle batteries are made to be slowly drained, and then recharged, totally different style of battery construction
Deep Cycle batteries don't release high amps very fast, so don't work as well for car batteries
 
Last edited:

Jocelynrae

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RonD!! I fixed the problem. Thanks to you!! I appreciate it so much as I am always wanting to fix the problem if I can and it was only 1 wire that I needed and to run it from the position terminal to the B+ nut on the alternator. Problem solved.

I have some more questions for you. So when my key is turned on or just in and the driver door is open this bell dings and I want to turn that off. Do you know how I can do that? Cut a wire maybe?
 

Jocelynrae

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The battery can be self draining
Disconnect from vehicle, and test voltage
Come back in a few hours and test again, if its lower battery is bad, self draining

You can also test after just a few minutes, if its lower its self draining

When a car battery is drained low, which has happen to this one a few times, it can get a short inside one of it cells, so battery is always "on" has current flowing even when its not hooked up to anything

A car battery is made to release 75amps quickly to start the engine, then to be recharged for the next time its needed
Its not made to be drained slowly until its dead, and then recharged, that causes issues

Deep Cycle batteries are made to be slowly drained, and then recharged, totally different style of battery construction
Deep Cycle batteries don't release high amps very fast, so don't work as well for car batteries
It's all fixed and driving!!!!
 

RonD

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Good work (y)

You need to take the clam shell cover off the steering column and you will see a single wire on the key cylinder case, cut it

Or you can take drivers door panel off and unplug the door switch on the latch, but this also disables the Door Ajar system on drivers door
 

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