1995-current gage cluster removal (pic intensive)

[Captain Ledd]

Original Poster: Captain Ledd

Difficulty: 3 out of 10

Time to install: 10-20 Minutes


Disclaimer: The Ranger Station.com, The Ranger Station.com Staff, nor the original poster are responsible for you doing this modification to your vehicle. By doing this modification and following this how-to you, the installer, take full responsibility if anything is damaged or messed up. If you have questions, feel free to PM the original poster or ask in the appropriate section of The Ranger Station.com forums.


Brief Explanation:
This is how you remove your gauge cluster to change the bulbs, replace it, or to get to the back of it for whatever reason.


Tools Needed:
- 7mm socket
- 8mm socket
- 5.5mm socket
- T20 Torx (optional - some 7mm)
- T15 Torx (optional - all 5.5mm)
- A small extension (might be useful in a few spots, but not necessary)
- Body panel remover tool (a wide flat bladed screwdriver or a pop sickle stick works good too)


Parts Needed: (If changing the bulbs out with stock bulbs)
- 6x #194 Series Bulb
- 16-18x #74 Series Bulb
-



LED replacement bulbs (and other bulb info):
Clicky here



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STEP 1

There are 4 bolts along the bottom, 2 are in the open, 2 are holding the hood latch to the dash. There's some spring retainers holding the top part of the panel in. Just pull straight back and they should pop out.

4x 7mm (T20 Torx)

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STEP 2

Remove the metal knee bolster panel

6x 8mm

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STEP 3

Pull these 2 screws out and the 3 on the top part of the gage cluster

5x 7mm

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STEP 4

Unscrew the 2 bolts holding the radio/HVAC fascia. They will be right above the HVAC control knobs. This is where the body panel remover tool comes in handy. you don't have to take the whole piece off, but pull it out just enough to get the next piece out.

2x 7mm

(yeah I know, I already removed the other piece, see next step)

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STEP 5

Now remove the piece surrounding the gauge cluster so that it looks like this:

I don't think there's any spring retainers on this piece, but it does take some finagling to pull it out.

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STEP 6

Unscrew the gauge cluster and pull it out. Unplug the wire harness(s) and/or speedometer cable if your speedometer is mechanically driven. These ones came off by hand really easy, didn't need to pry or anything.

4x 7mm

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STEP 7

Now you can replace your light bulbs.

Black = #194 bulbs
Off White / Light Tan = smaller bulbs, #74 series
Silver = not bulbs, leave them alone
Red = THEFT light (already an LED, at least on mine)

TO REMOVE BULBS:
Twist counterclockwise, lefty loosie , unscrew like a standard bolt/screw, etc.
They may make a popping noise when they come out, but don't worry about it.

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STEP 8

Reinstall in reverse order. after having done this I figure its a 10-15 minute job. It was stupid easy. Not at all like I have heard it was.

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Optional

Now if your Ranger is finally past it's initial break in period (190,000 miles) like mine, there gets to be some crap behind the gages.

7x 5.5mm (T15 Torx)

The clear cover pulls off and you'll find something that should look like this:

Now as far as I could tell the clear piece does not separate from the black base that separates the gauge areas. I didn't particularly reef on it hard as I didn't want to break it. But there's plenty of room to get a paper towel and some Windex back behind there. I gave the gauge faces a wipe down with Windex too. I wouldn't use anything very harsh on them.

Also, if the clear piece is kind of scratched to the point where you can see it when it's in the truck (after many years of cleanings or use), try some Turtle Wax on it. Dries clear and should take care of any of the small imperfections (I don't think you could use it well on the inside of the clear plastic, but you're welcome to try it). It also works on scratched CD's

Now enjoy your nice, clean, well illuminated gauges!

 

[kevinsranger]

great job, but just so you know, thats 95 and up, 94 is completely different gauges and dash

 

[Captain Ledd]

Really? Well bugger all.. I could have sworn they got that dash in '94, and only the '93s still had the gen II dash..

Oh, and I added more stuff that I forgot before.

 

[kevinsranger]

Really? Well bugger all.. I could have sworn they got that dash in '94, and only the '93s still had the gen II dash..

Oh, and I added more stuff that I forgot before.

no but believe me i wish you were right, i have a 94 and miss my 2000 and 2002 dashes. mine just looks and feels so old.

 

[KELLY88]

Nice write up. This is exactly what I've been lookin for. Did you need to mark the wiring harnesses for the gauge cluster or did each harness only plug into one spot?

 

[Captain Ledd]

Nice write up. This is exactly what I've been lookin for. Did you need to mark the wiring harnesses for the gauge cluster or did each harness only plug into one spot?

They only fit into one spot. Just about any wire harness of any type of vehicle will as well. There's too many individual connections and if one gets screwed up the whole system fails. I think they actually do it that way so that when the car is built the factory workers don't screw up lol. One of the few places where "it only fits one thing one way" is useful.

Plus, when we took it out the plugs pretty much stayed in the same spot. They're horizontally arranged (more or less) so it was pretty easy to plug them right back in.

I had similar concerns until I poked around in wire harnesses enough. Eventually had to put a entire new one in for my '84 (except for a chunk of the drivers side harness). Learned a bunch in that little adventure.

 

[KELLY88]

Well then that one was designed correctly. I pulled the gauge cluster out of an 86 BMW once that had about 15 seperate plugs on the back. The cluster board fried and had to be replaced. Removal was a serious PITA, took about 4 hours and didn't completely go back in correctly. Luckily most of the gauges ended up working after reinstallation.

 

[Captain Ledd]

Yeah... it's Thursday. I still don't have internet so I'm at the local library. w00t.

post updated with complete tool list.

 

[mjonesjr]

Can you write this up in the format required in the announcement at the top of the Submission section?

If so, I will submit it for review.

 

[kris97ranger]

this should be in the tech library because ive had a light out in my dash for 2 years now and never wnated to fix it due to the fact i thought itd be a nightmare
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ROLL BLUNTS

 

[dbrutherford]

I need to do this myself. I have a dim fuel gage light and my tach doesn't like to work unless you bang on the dash.

Thanks for the write up!

 

[GMWIGGS]

Very informative write up! I just used it to change my dash bulbs and all the steps were spot on. I didn't completely remove the metal plate though, I loosend it enough to get to the screws that held the bottom of the gauge cluster trim. I didn't completely remove the guage cluster either, I just turned it a little and reached behind it and removed the bulbs that way. I'm a lazy bastard though....

 

[Captain Ledd]

Can you write this up in the format required in the announcement at the top of the Submission section?

If so, I will submit it for review.

I could. But actually, I don't really want to.

Then it would be buried in yet another forum section instead of in here. Where I feel it will actually get more face time.

Honestly, I didn't even realize that the library even had another tech section for the longest time until someone linked to a post I had been looking for in a different thread. I thought it all got moved to the magazine or something or into other posts.

 

[B30004X4]

how does this work with an automatic transmission? Will the instrument cluster still just come out even with the gear indicator??

 

[kris97ranger]

i belive so i just had to pull one ouuta a 93 and a 97 and im almost positve the gear selector coem with the clustor theres just a wire going to it from your shifter. (like an actual cable wire not and electrical wire)
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Colorado Dispensaries