1994 Ranger 4x4 10.5 N/A build

[thcscubajohn]

So I'm halfway through a project I've been wanting to do for years. I thought it would be a good idea to post it on here. I am building my truck, finally.

I've got the Solo Motorsports stage 2 long travel kit for the front, a 40 gallon fuel tank is going behind the axle.

And the stock 4.0 is getting built as well. I found a set of brand new 4.0 con rods and slapped ARP bolts in em. I got .030 over flat top hypereutectic pistons, hastings plasma moly rings, king bearings, Delta937 camshaft, reman 98TM heads, double roll timing chain, melling high volume oil pump, TwEECer equipped ECU, SPEC stage 4 unsprung clutch hub and their overpressured pressure plate, screamin demon 45,000V coil pack, Taylor cable 8.2 spiro-wound wires, motorcraft platinum plugs. 24

The rear axle tubes are tig welded into the housing. And the shackles are flipped.
I'm going to break in the engine on an old clutch and with a 2wd transmission. Leave the t-case and front driveshaft out until it is ready for the unsprung clutch.

 

[thcscubajohn]

Photo update.
Engine is together and going in this week!
Suspension is together with stainless brake hard lines.

 

[XionicWaste]

Looking good!

 

[thcscubajohn]

Photo Update:
Cylinder bores were way too big due to me using an incorrect spec. This resulted in extreme piston slap and ended up cracking ringlands on all of the pistons. One of the pieces worked its way into the combustion chamber and shredded the #4 piston. This caused excessive blow by and left me with extremely high crankcase pressure. I also had ALOT of exhaust smoke. Because of the smoke and pressure I decided to do a tear down. A wise decision on my part, this would have resulted in catastrophic failure. The engine was still running when I pulled it.

Additionally, I used a crush sleeve eliminator kit in the diff when I re-geared from 3.27 to 3.73 and I didn't put it in right. It didn't have instructions and I've never used one before so I ended up with play in my pinion gear. I also torqued the nut to like 1000 ft lbs. Not even kidding, 1" air impacted that bitch on. I was unable to break the nut loose with breaker bars and electric impacts. So I got the angle grinder and went to town. I already got another new R&P because I drove it around a bit with the play.


Also, the springs I had in the front were 5½" lift and the beams were setup for 4" of lift. When I took it in for an alignment I ended up with like 6 degrees of positive camber. I called up Solo Motorsports and they exchanged my springs for 4" lift springs. Put those in and the wheels were in perfect alignment.

And I got Deaver G50s for the rear.