1994 Ranger 4.0 V6 cranks but won't start. Tried all the normal things. Grasping for straws here. One weird clue.

[Dirtman]

Aftermarket "universal" MAF sensors have a little box for adjustments to "tune" them to the engine.

They rank up there slightly under putting magnets on your fuel line as far as ridiculous nonsense.

 

[BrightCalypsoGreen]

I'd like to see a pic of the homemade air intake. Didn't sound interesting until you said you made a box to adjust idle and what not. I just don't see how this contraption would work unless it was like a butterfly valve to control the air flow.... I don't know, but a pic would be nice to see what the heck you made.

The homemade CAI is here:

Air Box Modification at ford40.com, for the Ford 4.0 4L Engine Modifications for Ranger, Sporttrac & Explorer

Air Box Modification on the Ford 4.0 4L Engine Modifications for Ranger, Sporttrac & Explorer

ford40.com

The MAF housing is a Vortex and the adjuster is made by a company known as Best Products. Mine is very old and the housing has deformed from the heat but it still works.

 

[BrightCalypsoGreen]

Aftermarket "universal" MAF sensors have a little box for adjustments to "tune" them to the engine.

They rank up there slightly under putting magnets on your fuel line as far as ridiculous nonsense.

View attachment 37392

I would not say that. They are just potentiometers that adjust the voltage. I can't say anything about the item above, my mine does work.

 

[Dirtman]

If getting terrible mileage and having a sooty exhaust is what you consider "working".

 

[BrightCalypsoGreen]

If getting terrible mileage and having a sooty exhaust is what you consider "working".

Thanks for the sarcasm. (Like there's a shortage of that on the net.) I guess I should have used the word "functional."

The truck has always had shitty mileage. Long before I made any modification to it. From the day I bought the truck brand new in 1994. My modifications have been trying to get sort of acceptable mileage. When I sold my 89 Ranger with a V6 I was getting 18 city and 26 highway. Not fantastic but considering the technology at the time, (1980's) okay. That was my measuring stick. So when I bought the '94 the offical numbers were a little lower than that, but I was willing to live with that to get the 4WD. However the actual numbers were way below the official numbers and I've been trying to get something better. The '94 also had from day one a very bad bog or hesitation when starting out. Today it would be called a flat spot. The "best box" was the only technology available at the time. (and I haven't found anything "tuneable" even today for this vehicle.

I have an A/F meter now and once I get it back on the road I'll try to get things dialed in the best I can with what technology I have available to me.

 

[PetroleumJunkie412]

Seafoam is garbage.

Jectron and intake valve cleaner by liqui Molly. Have before and after photos off my snake camera to show.

 

[Dirtman]

Your face is garbage!

 

[BrightCalypsoGreen]

Seafoam is garbage.

Jectron and intake valve cleaner by liqui Molly. Have before and after photos off my snake camera to show.

Normally I try to ignore such trash talk but friend I've been using Seafoam for over 20 years. I have 9 vehicles that I maintain. All are 14 + years old, most from the 60's, 70's, 80's and 90s. They are all shapes and sizes. On my wife's Toyota, 150K miles, it developed a very rough idle. Very rough. I ran 4 cans of seafoam in the gas take (1 per tankful, 4 tankfuls). By the end of the last tank the idle was as smooth as the day we bought it new. Read this thread. I tested the fuel pressure bleed down. Before and after seafoam and I went from 30 seconds to 3 minutes. That's a 600% improvement. I have not eliminated the leak down completely because I had more than one source (injectors and fuel pump hose.) The truck now passes the "foot to the floor and crank" test. (will not start.) So there is zero leakage at the injectors now, whereas there was some before. I have never used the products you mentioned, maybe they are better, maybe not. But for you to say Seafoam is junk just shows the rest of use how ignorant you are.

Also, just in case you need more evident, check out Project Farm's videos on youtube. He's probably one of the best tubers out there and his videos are very well done. He's got dozens of videos testing Seafoam against other products. https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC2rzsm1Qi6N1X-wuOg_p0Ng/search?query=seafoam Before you spout again showing everyone just how uninformed you are, watch a few. It'll save you much embarrassment. (BTW, Project Farm also tested your "liquidMolly." You might want to see empirical evidence before you dig your hole deeper.)

disclaimer: I have zero connection with Seafoam other than a user of their products.

 

[PetroleumJunkie412]

I have never used the products you mentioned, maybe they are better, maybe not.

But for you to say Seafoam is junk just shows the rest of use (sic) how ignorant you are.

Also, just in case you need more evident (sic), check out Project Farm's videos on youtube.

He's probably one of the best tubers out there and his videos are very well done. He's got dozens of videos testing Seafoam against other products.

Before you spout again showing everyone just how uninformed you are, watch a few. It'll save you much embarrassment.

(BTW, Project Farm also tested your "liquidMolly." You might want to see empirical evidence before you dig your hole deeper.)

"Project farm" and seafoam.

Ok.

Seafoam contains no PEA or PIBA. Both are strong and effective injector cleaners that break down the varnishes left by ethanol containing fuels. Seafoam contains neither.

If your injectors are plugging up, it's due to a combination of PCV gunk, fuel residues, and EGR byproducts (if yours is equipped).

The fact that you had results with it means that you need to consider a true fuel system cleaner that breaks down deposits, and not one that used literal smoke and mirrors to convince you that it's working.

So let's sit here and completely ignore the fact that I run a megasquirt on my ranger and have actual data logs from my truck that show differences in injector duty cycles versus wideband o2 afrs with respect to using fuel system cleaners. You know. Real actual data. Not before and after photos.

Let's ignore that your YouTube guy has half the testing equipment on his bench than I do on my truck at all times when I go to the store to get bread. Because, you know, I can data log, and you can't. Neither can he.

Disclaimer: I shill for no companies but my own. My opinion comes from experience and real data.




Fix your own stuff. Unsubscribed.

 

[Uncle Gump]

Easy gentlemen... lets not turn this into a slug-fest.

There really isn't a one size fits all here. People's results will always vary.

Debate is healthy...

Arguing and cheap shots on the internet... rarely provides a winner.

 

[rusty ol ranger]

1- You do realize that ethanol is much harder on things then gasoline right? Espicially when it sits. So while it might not leave "deposits" it can definatly cause other issues.

2- Is that dude on youtube your brother or somethin? @PetroleumJunkie412 has done some pretty crazy shit with EFI, dude knows what hes talking about. So youre the one "disparageing" someone you know nothing about.

3- Everyone here is a little crazy.

4- Actually @PetroleumJunkie412 posts are very helpful. They've helped me numerous times. Maybe you should listen and read, might learn somethin.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

@BrightCalypsoGreen and @PetroleumJunkie412

No personal attacks, you can play nice or go sit in the corner.

 

[BrightCalypsoGreen]

1- You do realize that ethanol is much harder on things then gasoline right? Espicially when it sits. So while it might not leave "deposits" it can definatly cause other issues.

I was correcting the other person. He claimed his cleaner cleaned deposits left by ethanol. That's factually untrue. Gasoline leaves deposits. Ethanol does not. Ethanol is a solvent.

Yes, it will attack certain plastics and corrode aluminum. But that has nothing to do with the issues we are discussing here.

The issue of this discussion was deposits that might make the fuel injectors stick in the open position.

So ethanol has nothing to add to this discussion.

2- Is that dude on youtube your brother or somethin? @PetroleumJunkie412 has done some pretty crazy shit with EFI, dude knows what hes talking about. So youre the one "disparageing" someone you know nothing about.

I have no relation to the Project Farm guy on youtube, just a long time watcher. The other guy called him a schmuck which is a derogatory term, it's unfounded and uncalled for. I find Project Farm a well informed and diligent investigator. He's also an AF vet (I believe Mechanic). I also support him on Patreon because I believe his videos are beneficial to the community. Other than that, I have no relation with him, never meet him.

I see PetroJunkie is a long time member of the forum and I'm new here, however read this entire thread. Everyone has been helpful and offered their opinion in a civil manner. Now look at how Petro enters the conversation. He calls one product garbage and then attacks and insults anyone who disagrees with his opinion. Really? Is that what you are standing up for?

Read the thread without bias and I believe you will see what I'm trying to point out.

 

[Uncle Gump]

Read the thread without bias and I believe you will see what I'm trying to point out.

I did... well before your head exploded.

I also said that debate was healthy... but not to turn it into a brawl.

Nearly every word of your post was a personal attack... We won't tolerate it... simple.

Debate with facts... not youtube or I read it somewhere on the internet evidence.

It's over and lets just move beyond this.

So did you get your truck figured out? Or are you still having issues?

 

[rusty ol ranger]

Read the thread without bias and I believe you will see what I'm trying to point out.

I wasnt being biased. Simply pointing out how you were calling the kettle black.