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1994 Ford Ranger No Fuse Panel in Side Panel


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The diagrams I pulled from this site for my passenger compartment fuse panel on my 1994 Ford Ranger 2.3 XL are incorrect for my truck.

My truck does not have any sort of removable side panel cover concealing the fuse panel. Mine is under the dash on the drivers side, similar to the photos you show of the 1983 Ranger panel, however mine does not seem to line up with the 83 you currently display.

I am having a hard time diagnosing a charging issue on my Ranger and I'd like to test the appropriate voltage at the fuse bank but having a hard time finding a diagram that coincides with my 94 2.3.
 


Bgunner

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A bit confused with this.

Locations for fuse panels in the 94 are under hood driver side fender well and under dash driver side. There is no fuse panel on the passenger side for the '94 model year.

Wiring changed from '83 to '94 a few times. What exactly are you looking for?

I have an EVTM for my '94 that I can find the info you are looking for but have no idea what exactly you are looking for.
 
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A bit confused with this.

Locations for fuse panels in the 94 are under hood driver side fender well and under dash driver side. There is no fuse panel on the passenger side for the '94 model year.

Wiring changed from '83 to '94 a few times. What exactly are you looking for?

I have an EVTM for my '94 that I can find the info you are looking for but have no idea what exactly you are looking for.
Hello, I am not sure why you're confused I was pretty clear, I'm aware there is no fuse panel on the passenger side of my own 94 Ranger, that's why I said that there wasn't and why I am looking for the fuse panel diagram for it.

The Fuse Panel box diagrams located on THIS website, are incorrect and show a completely different fuse box located behind a side panel on the drivers side.

I am simply looking for the "correct" Fuse Panel Diagram for my truck, which they don't seem to have up apparently.

Here you can click the link and see for yourself. Hope this clears up your confusion.

 

Shran

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@Jim Oaks he is correct, that page should read 1995-1997(?) maybe it applies to 98 and newer in some cases too
 

Josh B

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a 93 should be a near spittin image of the 94
 
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a 93 should be a near spittin image of the 94
Agreed but as I mentioned unfortunately all they have up other than this that I can find at least is an 83, which is close but not the same.

If you have a 93 diagram, I'd love to see it.
 

Bgunner

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RonD

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1994 fuse panels

Cab fuse box also has the 4-way flasher on the back side, turn signal is on the front
Flashers are the same model round 2 prong
 

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Ok problem identified and work around in place. I have to admit I ended up pulling the bed off so I could test from the pump to make it easier. What I found was I was getting only 6.8 volts at the pump with the key on and also when cranking. I had already tested the fuel pump relay out of the truck and confirmed it was good as well as swapping relays with a known good one to be sure so I knew the relay was good. I tested voltage at the power distribution box inside the engine compartment.

I had 12.x on pin 30 and with the key turned on I had 12.x on pin 86 but ONLY when I used a common ground, like the negative terminal or the engine, etc. But when I put my negative probe into pin 85 which would be ground for the control side of the relay I got no reading.

I figured this meant one of 2 things. 1, there's a break in the ground wire most likely inside the power distribution box itself or somewhere along the way OR and I haven't confirmed this latter part but reading through the forums here on the Ranger Station it appears that that ground may go to the ECC computer. From what I understand, the ECC keeps the ground open and only closes it to send power to the pump for 2 seconds when the key is turned on to prime the pump. Then it opens the ground so that even though there's power on 86 the ground on 85 is open so the pump turns off. This apparently is a safety feature that keeps the pump from running during ignition.

Then once the engine starts the ECC completes the circuit and allows current to flow from 30 to 87(87 being loadside) and onto the pump and then remains on until the key is turned off.

With the bed off I tested power to the pump directly with jumpers off the battery and the fuel pump turned on fine so I knew the pump was good.

I decided given there was no active ground visible on slot 85 of the pump relay socket that I would just try and see if a jumper would turn on the pump. So I used a 14 gauge wire and jumped pin 30 directly to 87 and the pump turned on. Then I tried the key and the truck started right up.

So at that point I'm guessing one of two things.

1. There's a break in the ground between slot 85 in the relay panel and the ECC.

2. The ECC is malfunctioning and no facilitating the ground.

I am guessing it is the former, there are some chewed wires to the ECC TEST OBD1 port, which I understand the farthest left slot is ground for the pump relay but not sure how that'd work if nothings plugged into the OBD1 port.

Either way I decided to try a work around.

I jumped pin 85 with a 14 gauge wire and grounded it to one of the free frame screws on the engine compartment wall to make a simple common ground for the relay port.

I realize this will always leave the pump motor on when the key is on, and the ECC safety feature doesn't work this way as once the key is turned the coil is immediately energized and sends current to the pump, but the ECC only turns off the pump for a few seconds during engine crank. Once the engine is running above 400 RPMS the ECC completes the ground and leaves it grounded until the engine is shut off.

I did some reading in here and it doesn't seem as if this would hurt it. The safety features is there for a reason but I'm not so sure its that important, if someone thinks otherwise feel free to chime in but for now I figured this would make a good work around.

Picture is attached, I literally wedged the jumper wire in alongside the fuse. I removed the yellow plastic seat to make it sit better.

Truck seems to run fantastic now, in fact it never ran so well. Very powerful and smooth.

Also I resolved the charging system issue where the alternator was not charging the battery.

The squirrels also chewed into the wiring harness between the alternator and the and a plug that runs into a harness that looks like it goes to the ECC so I simply spliced in some wire with butt connectors and its charging normally again, getting 14.8 volts at the battery when the engines running.

Bottom picture shows the jumper ground (pink wire)

Thanks for all the help, this website really helped me find the answers I needed to identify the issue. The work-around I won't blame you for ha ha.
 

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