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1994 B4000 4.0

Walksnotruns22

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1994
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Mazda B4000
Engine Type
4.0 V6
Transmission
Automatic
2WD / 4WD
2WD
Hello Everyone,

My apologies on not introducing myself before asking questions. I was trying to get my truck back up and running after tearing it apart to change some gaskets. I am not the most mechanically knowledgeable person but will not shy away from trying and learning something new. So, thank you everyone that helped with my questions.

Back to the point.

I recently bought a 1994 Mazda B4000 LE 4.0 OHV with 225k miles on it. I only paid $1,500 for it. I knew going into it that there were a few problems that will need to be fixed for that price and looking at it.

Just replaced intake gaskets, injector o-rings, fuel rail gaskets, valve cover gaskets, spark plugs, plug wires.

I still need to replace the fuel sending unit. I want to fix the back window that someone broke out and they decided to fix by screwing in a piece of plastic, headliner is falling and need replacing ( I don't think the cleaned up after broken window and a mold has made itself known.
IMG_20220517_083306874_HDR.jpg
IMG_20220517_083315390_HDR.jpg
 

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RonD

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Welcome to the forum

4.0l OHV(1990-2000) is a very reliable engine, but DO NOT let it over heat, pull over immediately and let it cool off or you WILL crack a head

car-part.com this is a good place to look for local(zipcode) used parts

But you can get new rear glass

Used rear window from a 1993 thru 2011 Extended cab Ranger/B-series will work, they bolt in, later years may need 2 extra holes drilled, in truck side, not a big deal
1998-2011 regular cab rear windows will also work, they have bolt in rear windows
(1986-1992 extended cab also fit, if memory serves)

Solid or slider are interchangeable, so use what you want

1997 and earlier regular cab rear windows won't work, they didn't bolt in, they used a gasket to hold them in place
 
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Walksnotruns22

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1994
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Transmission
Automatic
2WD / 4WD
2WD
Thanks for the info.

I will for sure look at that website.

I think, and let me know if I am wrong, the best thing to do for the filthy, moldy headliner is to just rip it out.
 

RonD

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Yes, headliner is fabric over a plastic panel, Google: Headliner replacement, 93-97 Ford Ranger, How To DIY

Its a video on how to remove the old one, which I would recommend versus "ripping it out"
You can still buy new headliners

And you could recover the old plastic panel and reinstall
 

Walksnotruns22

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Thanks.

I will look at that now.
 

Walksnotruns22

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I watched that video and it's simple to take out. Mine has a lot more of those stupid plastic restraining tab things (brain fart right now on their name). I did fine that I have to also unscrew a lot of other panels in back seat to be able to take headliner out.

Deciding to hold off on all that until I get a new one ordered from online. Nothing with 300 miles if me that I can get.

Switching to removing the bed and changing out the sending unit. Would like to get the fuel gauge working.
 

rumblecloud

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Welcome to TRS.
Red is a plus color around here.
For having 225 on the OD, it looks pretty clean - especially under the hood. And no noticeable dents or bruises.
 

Walksnotruns22

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It's actually pretty clean in the damage department. Only major damage is the dirty moldy headliner. Guessing previous owner broke back window and all they did was screw in a piece of plastic over it without cleaning out old glass nor did they gasket it.
 

Lefty

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People often spray the headliner with Duplicolor fabric spray found in automotive supply stores. I washed mine clean with a soft sponge dipped in rubbing alcohol.
 

Walksnotruns22

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People often spray the headliner with Duplicolor fabric spray found in automotive supply stores. I washed mine clean with a soft sponge dipped in rubbing alcohol.
I will have to look into that once I get it pulled out. All the plastic tabs suck to remove.
 

Lefty

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I will have to look into that once I get it pulled out. All the plastic tabs suck to remove.
I used a pry bar, but a cheap plastic parts puller is the more conventional approach.
 

Walksnotruns22

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2WD
I used a pry bar, but a cheap plastic parts puller is the more conventional approach.
I just went to harbor freight and got those plastic trim puller pry bars. It being the extended cab makes it so there seems to be 5x more of them.
 

Lefty

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I just went to harbor freight and got those plastic trim puller pry bars. It being the extended cab makes it so there seems to be 5x more of them.
BTW I have a regular cab. Ford wanted $465.00 for a replacement. I scoured the junkyards and picked up another, but it didn't fit! The differences were subtle but significant. So I went out again and got an exact match. Saving the headliner you have is worth doing.
 

Walksnotruns22

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Lewiston Idaho
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1994
Make / Model
Mazda B4000
Engine Type
4.0 V6
Transmission
Automatic
2WD / 4WD
2WD
BTW I have a regular cab. Ford wanted $465.00 for a replacement. I scoured the junkyards and picked up another, but it didn't fit! The differences were subtle but significant. So I went out again and got an exact match. Saving the headliner you have is worth doing.
I haven't found a junkyard around me close by and I found a website that ships them for $300. I will pull and try to clean before I purchase new. I have been looking around for a new back window but that's getting tricky as well. The luxury of living out in the country, no one around but nothing around either. Lol
 

Lefty

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The pulled headliner cost $12.00. I found a back window too. It was just $35.00. Our U-Pull yards have Facebook pages so I follow them and watch.

You have a nice truck. Good luck.
 

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