1993 Ranger TTB

[RonSerling]

Hello all,
I have come here a number of times for help with issues on my 93 Ranger and everyone here has always been a big help. So here is the last item I am going to go after on my truck as I am pretty much at wits end with it now. It has TTB in the front and to that I did the transition over to late model Bronco spindles with all new hardware. In truth this was a great fix for the issues I had running the 35's on the stock hubs but since we have had nothing but issues with the alignment and getting any decent tire wear. My friend is one of the best front end guys and even he says this system is a nightmare. So that said I am looking for opinions as to what solid front axle would be a good replacement for that TTB. I have seen articles here on it but I would like some further opinions on the subject and tell me what you all think. I have a nice little fabrication shop so I have that part covered just looking for opinions on what a good front axle would be to use. Look forward to the replies as always !!

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

I’m moving this to the axles section…

The TTB can be difficult to properly align. Same for the TIB. Both have their place though. Despite alignment issues (and the fact that most alignment techs anymore don’t have a clue how to properly align a TTB/TIB suspension), they are good axles.

If you are really insistent on a straight axle, Jeep front axles are roughly the correct width. D-30 is common, D-44 less so but there. That also gets you the 5x4.5” bolt pattern.

Or you just go to full-width, but depending on your location, this may not be a good option. I know PA has rules for how far your tires can stick out of your fenders (they’re supposed to be covered by fenders and/or flares and flares can’t be more than something like 3-4” wide) to be considered road legal. They don’t seem to enforce it much, but it’s on the books and I’ve heard cities tend to enforce it more than the rest of the state. Your mileage may vary.

 

[SenorNoob]

I'm going to throw out the possibility of a D44 from a newer style Jeep. Seems like the easiest thing for that size tires.

 

[RonSerling]

I’m moving this to the axles section…

The TTB can be difficult to properly align. Same for the TIB. Both have their place though. Despite alignment issues (and the fact that most alignment techs anymore don’t have a clue how to properly align a TTB/TIB suspension), they are good axles.

If you are really insistent on a straight axle, Jeep front axles are roughly the correct width. D-30 is common, D-44 less so but there. That also gets you the 5x4.5” bolt pattern.

Or you just go to full-width, but depending on your location, this may not be a good option. I know PA has rules for how far your tires can stick out of your fenders (they’re supposed to be covered by fenders and/or flares and flares can’t be more than something like 3-4” wide) to be considered road legal. They don’t seem to enforce it much, but it’s on the books and I’ve heard cities tend to enforce it more than the rest of the state. Your mileage may vary.

I just located a TJ front axle. From what understand it is a Dana 30, I think, and I am curious as to strength of it. In looking at it I think with some good massaging in my shop I could het it to look pretty nice and I could also fab up a real nic 4 link coil over system to put it in. The question remains is this a strong axle ???

 

[bobbywalter]

what is the problem?


what specs?

what steering?


it definitely changes quite a few things and the steering axis inclination but with longer arms and neutral beam height running 1/8 toe and fat caster 5 plus worked really well and awesome for wear provided 6-7 k rotations.

thats with 380 ppi springs

 

[bobbywalter]

I just located a TJ front axle. From what understand it is a Dana 30, I think, and I am curious as to strength of it. In looking at it I think with some good massaging in my shop I could het it to look pretty nice and I could also fab up a real nic 4 link coil over system to put it in. The question remains is this a strong axle ???

i wouldnt worry about the strength...

if you beat the balls off of it then just add the normal beef parts for the trussing and put normal outers on. .

or run the jk axles and some spynteks.

then you can keep your 5x5.5 wheels.

not cheap. and is alot wider but very much stronger then the tj setup.

or just get stupid doodies and be done with it.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

I just located a TJ front axle. From what understand it is a Dana 30, I think, and I am curious as to strength of it. In looking at it I think with some good massaging in my shop I could het it to look pretty nice and I could also fab up a real nic 4 link coil over system to put it in. The question remains is this a strong axle ???

My understanding is that the non-CAD axles (no passenger axle shaft disconnect) are the stronger of the Jeep D-30 axles, but in terms of strength, the D-30 is the relative equivalent of a D-35 TTB.

The D-44 is found in the like Rubicon packaged Jeeps and is, well, a D-44.

 

[4x4junkie]

The shafts & u-joints on 1995-2006 Jeep D30s are comparable to the D35, but nothing else. The ring & pinion is weaker, the housing is weaker, and the bearings are weaker.

RonSerling, have a look at this page (have your friend look at it too). It's almost certain your tire wear issue is with your steering linkage (it's a very common issue):

Steering Tech - Discussing TTB Steering and Alignment - The Ranger Station

How it’s supposed to work (and why it often doesn’t work like so) Steering continues to be one of the most overlooked, often misunderstood pitfalls on these suspensions, so I felt this subject deserves it’s very own page. As many … Continued

www.therangerstation.com

 

[gaz]

@RonSerling
Hello

I understand that you have upgraded your hubs for improved strength but...

I have a 4" suspension lift on 87 BII: Softride 4"coils, 1994 Explorer D35 with front of axle anti sway bar and extended radius arms. I've run a number of tire sizes from 30.5×9.5 to 33×13.5 on stock hubs/Warn manual lockers, I've had it aligned twice a year and after any suspension changes with no abnormal tire wear.

Owned since 98, suspension went on in 07. I bought the extra adjustable chamber fixtures after installing the lift but they were never needed

Not trying to be nanna nana boo boo but offer hope.