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1993 Mustang Harness into 1992 Ranger Harness Help


Acgallen

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So I've finally reached the point where the long block is assembled (for the most part) and now I'm swapping the A9L mustang computer with the matching harness into the ranger. Ive dug around for a while trying to figure out what is necessary to splice. I've found (By Bob) that connector 39 (8 pin Green Connector) near the computer and connector 31 (Brown 8 Pin Connector) near the master cylinder needs to be adapted. I've had good luck with the 31, as I believe I've spliced it correctly, but I'm finding 39 to be difficult. The ranger corresponding connector is different as there is a 4 pin connector and another 2 pin. I believe the fuel pump inertia switch and the speed sensor +- are in these wires. Need help with the locations of the wires to splice.

After those 2 connectors, i have no idea what (if anything) needs to be moved over. I'm attaching all the pictures I've been using as a guide. The Edis module on the ranger is my biggest concern because the mustang harness doesn't have it. Not sure if alot of the connectors I pulled just wont be used again since im replacing the computer and harness. A lot of questions, any help would be greatly appreciated. I leave for FT Knox shortly and would like to have the engine at least in the car lol.
Colored Diagram.PNG
Connector Swapped from ranger 2.jpg
Connector Swapped from ranger.jpg
Main Harness.PNG
Ranger EEC.PNG
Ranger Near computer wires.jpg
1993 Mustang Harness EEC.PNG
 
Last edited:


Rock Auto 5% Discount Code: 70D65189E6D8FF: January 5th, 2022

Acgallen

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The Ranger wires i cut the second to last pictures are colored as, PNK/BLK, (Thick) LGHTBLU/YLW, PNK/O, GRY/BLK, GRN/YLW, PPL.

The adapted black 4 pin connector has a Thick GRY/YLW, PPL, GRY/BLK, PNK/O.

The adapted 2 pin connector has the Mustang (2) DRKGRN/YLW spliced into the Ranger GRN/YLW and the Mustang (2) PNK/GRN into Ranger PNK/BLK.

The only wire not used is the WH/RD, so i left it out. I may have these properly connected but i would rather not risk it. I also have the ground connector attached.
 

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Elutheros

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I have no idea if this will be helpful but you might find something in this mess. I used a 1989 Grand Marquis harness to get the A9L in my 1992 4.0 Ranger so most of the color coding should be close to the Mustang harness. The index cards were to remind me where various connectors were after I spliced the Marquis harness into the Ranger. Some of the notes were just checks for me to do. I highly recommend you buy the Harwood Ford Ranger EFI V8 conversion manual. It's very helpful.
61739
61740
61741
 

Acgallen

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I have no idea if this will be helpful but you might find something in this mess. I used a 1989 Grand Marquis harness to get the A9L in my 1992 4.0 Ranger so most of the color coding should be close to the Mustang harness. The index cards were to remind me where various connectors were after I spliced the Marquis harness into the Ranger. Some of the notes were just checks for me to do. I highly recommend you buy the Harwood Ford Ranger EFI V8 conversion manual. It's very helpful.View attachment 61739View attachment 61740View attachment 61741
Thank you for the information! Anything helps, will definitely look to buy that guide. Is there a certain place you recommend getting it?
 

Acgallen

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Another detail i failed to mention is im using a ZF5 Transmission. Finding out the fitment is tough, any suggestions about a shifter.
EAC8F3E5-1C5C-412A-901A-460361B857DA.jpeg
 

Elutheros

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What engine mounts did you use and how much clearance at the front of the radiator fan? I thought the ZF5 shifter would sit further back. I have the M5ODR2 from a 5.0 F150 and my shifter is as far forward as it can be without hitting the dash and my trans mount is in the original location. Can you send some photos of the engine position?
61827
 

Acgallen

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What engine mounts did you use and how much clearance at the front of the radiator fan? I thought the ZF5 shifter would sit further back. I have the M5ODR2 from a 5.0 F150 and my shifter is as far forward as it can be without hitting the dash and my trans mount is in the original location. Can you send some photos of the engine position?View attachment 61827
Im using the recommended convertible mustang mounts, switched left and right. Not sure if the ZF5 has a different location than the M50, but from block to shifter is 15 inches. Not much clearance for the radiator at all
 

Acgallen

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What engine mounts did you use and how much clearance at the front of the radiator fan? I thought the ZF5 shifter would sit further back. I have the M5ODR2 from a 5.0 F150 and my shifter is as far forward as it can be without hitting the dash and my trans mount is in the original location. Can you send some photos of the engine position?View attachment 61827
2DA87FFC-7155-4EE4-956B-EBCBA636B640.jpeg
FE70E612-1CF0-495A-B9EC-262576532327.jpeg
B355C9AB-22A4-4466-A441-83D5FE5DC2A6.jpeg
 

Elutheros

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Do you have a body lift? I used the flat plate mounts on top of the original V6 mounts and have a 3" BL. I also modified the plate mounts a little bit by drilling a new hole for the mount stud on the driver side. I cut out the core support on the front but not across the top and put a new lower mount for the radiator which moved it forward about 2". I also used the Explorer FEAD which is the shortest so I can use the original fan or electric. The flat plates were about $20 from one of the guys on this forum. The BL was about $100 and made it a lot easier to fit everything. I'm going back to an electric fan as soon as I gather the parts.

61881



61877
61880
 

Acgallen

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Do you have a body lift? I used the flat plate mounts on top of the original V6 mounts and have a 3" BL. I also modified the plate mounts a little bit by drilling a new hole for the mount stud on the driver side. I cut out the core support on the front but not across the top and put a new lower mount for the radiator which moved it forward about 2". I also used the Explorer FEAD which is the shortest so I can use the original fan or electric. The flat plates were about $20 from one of the guys on this forum. The BL was about $100 and made it a lot easier to fit everything. I'm going back to an electric fan as soon as I gather the parts.

View attachment 61881


View attachment 61877View attachment 61880
Having alot of problems with the reverse convertable mounts. Seeing how you're engine sits, ill definitely be getting the flat mounts. Currently i dont think i could even get the radiator on so something has to change lol. Most likely will put a switch on push fan for the radiator. What headers did you use, i found a good deal on some long tube hedman headers, which was not suggested but i want to make work. Thanks again for all the info!
 

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Your mounts are plotted too far forward.

I usually slot the hole where the nut can barely fit in the bottom on the backside of the k member and with no body lift have to beat the hell out if the top face of the tunnel and flatten or remove the pinch seam. Even then. With a zf you have to reform the shifter.
 

Acgallen

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Your mounts are plotted too far forward.

I usually slot the hole where the nut can barely fit in the bottom on the backside of the k member and with no body lift have to beat the hell out if the top face of the tunnel and flatten or remove the pinch seam. Even then. With a zf you have to reform the shifter.
Bought the adapter plates with the 5.0 mounts. The convertible mustang mounts dont seem to work too well. The firewall is pretty well gone so just gotta worry about the dash and the shifter. Thanks for the help!
 


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