2.3L ('83-'97) 1991 Ranger shifting issues..

[owen_cochran]

This is my first post but I've read a lot on here. I've got a 91 ranger 2.3, 2 wheel drive, manual trans. It's been hard to shift in to 1st and reverse occasionally for a long time but multiple people told me it was normal. About a week ago I started my truck and attempted to go in to reverse and it grinded as it went in, I tried again and same thing. It also does this when going in to 1st although not as aggressively. My first thought was bad clutch. I tried bleeding the system just to see if it helped but it didn't. I was about to buy a new clutch but I decided to jack the rear end up and start it in reverse with the clutch fully depressed to see if the wheels would spin and to my surprise they did not spin at all. No spinning in 1st either. But then at one point I shifted from neutral to 1st with the engine running and it didn't grind, but the wheels spun a little as I was shifting but stopped as soon as it was fully in gear. I couldn't get that to happen again. Also, while jacked up the rear wheels don't start to spin until the usual bite point on the clutch which is about halfway released. I don't know if this suggests the clutch is okay or not. My mechanical knowledge is very limited (especially in the transmission department) and any tips/ theory's are appreciated.

 

[Brain75]

You are only having issues shifting into 1st and reverse, right - all other gears are good? There is a safety lockout that prevents going from 5th to reverse. You have to drop to neutral disengage clutch, re-clutch and then it goes into either 1st or reverse nicely... I have the same symptom of getting harder and harder to go into reverse...
BTW, might look to see which of the 2 possible manuals you have, and post that as it will help the pros a bunch.

Ford Ranger Manual Transmissions - The Ranger Station

Model Trans Code P/N Vehicle Speed Ratios Mitsubishi FM132 D 1988-1992 2.9L 2WD 5-Speed Unknown Mitsubishi FM145 D E67A-7003-FA 1985-1987 Ranger 4X4 5-Speed 1st: 3.769 2nd: 2.210 3rd: 1.516 4th: 1.00 5th: 0.812 Reverse: 3.400 Mitsubishi FM146 D 1988-1992 2.9L Ranger 4X4 … Continued

www.therangerstation.com

...wait, 4 banger, so you only would have the Mazada, code M trans..

Well that is a known issue with the Mazda M trans - even in the article:

"The hydraulic clutch, slave cylinder/throwout bearing is another item you should pay close attention to. After time, the slave cylinder fails to release the clutch completely. If you are having trouble shifting into 1st and reverse while stationary or if your truck creeps forward with the clutch pedal depressed the slave cylinder/throwout bearing is probably at fault. Unfortunately there is no easy fix here as the transmission must be removed to replace the combination slave cylinder and throwout bearing. "

 

[scotts90ranger]

There's no synchronizing when the output shaft isn't spinning so when parked it's just hard to get into gear most of the time since the gears aren't lined up... I likely just do things out of habit but push toward say second gear before first or third or just anything else to get the gears bumped a little to line up...

 

[Brain75]

I didn't find that to work as well for me as as just easing out on the clutch just an inch and then pushing it in. Push it back in before it starts to catch even at all, if you get to the point of catching it will overspeed the input shaft and grind.

 

[owen_cochran]

I used to be able to shift to second and then it would go in to 1st or reverse. But now it grinds in to first and reverse. The only way I've found to shift to reverse without grinding is to shift in to 4th and keep the clutch fully pressed in for about 3 seconds and then I can very quickly switch to reverse. But the shift from 4th to reverse has to be less then 1 second. Also once I have successfully gotten it in to reverse it will then shift smoothly to all gears as long as I keep the clutch in. If I release it and push it back in the problem returns.

 

[Brain75]

well "normal" does not mean right.... bad design but not much you can do - pull apart the engine/trans and replace the slave cylinder is the only solution out there I know of (and then of course you will face it again some day when that weak link starts up again)... I am unlucky as the previous owner of mine just replaced the clutch but did not do the slave cylinder at the same time - just to keep yourself out of dealing with it later, I would replace the slave every time you put a new clutch in with this specific trans.