1990 Ford Ranger Starting Problem - Help!

[eyesguy]

New ignition switch, new starter relay (solenoid), new starter, and new battery. Turning the ignition you can hear the starter relay "click" so I thought perhaps the contacts inside may not be touching, so I replaced with OEM solenoid and exact same thing happens - no start. Only way to start the truck is to "jump" the starter relay on the right front fender panel (same with new and old starter relay) and then it drives like a dream.
I am missing something here - any ideas or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

Just a click is a sign of a bad connection or corroded wire. Check all ground connections for tightness. Also the positive side as current needs both sides to work. Behind the insulation the wires can corrode unseen.
Google "voltage drop test ford ranger" and use a multi-meter to test connections.

 

[RonD]

Welcome to TRS

From your description, the starter relay is not getting the 12volts, on the "S" post, from the ignition switch, this 12volts activates the starter relay
"S" post is the smaller post on the relay with the red/blue stripe wire

In a 1990 Ranger with automatic trans, the red/blue wire comes from the NSS(neutral safety switch) located above the shift rod on the drivers side of transmission
There is a 4 or 5 wire connector on the NSS
2 or 3 wires(all red/blue, but one may be Pink) these wires are only connected together when transmission is in Park or Neutral, this prevents "starting in gear", so this switch passes the 12v from ignition switch to starter relay "S" post, but only when switch is in the correct position

NSS is a plunger type switch
NSS also has 2 wires for Reverse Lights, these 2 wires are connected together when trans is in Reverse, and then backup/reverse lights should come on

The red/blue wire from ignition switch is actually PINK at the ignition switch, it changes from Pink to red/blue at a connector above brake pedal under dash, this is where a Clutch Pedal Switch would be on a Manual trans Ranger
On some Rangers the Pink wire will stay Pink all the way to NSS


So you have
Ignition switch--(pink wire)---connector under dash----(red/blue or pink)----NSS----(red/blue)----(S post)Starter relay

 

[eyesguy]

Just a click is a sign of a bad connection or corroded wire. Check all ground connections for tightness. Also the positive side as current needs both sides to work. Behind the insulation the wires can corrode unseen.
Google "voltage drop test ford ranger" and use a multi-meter to test connections.

Thanks, I will test the voltage drop.

Welcome to TRS

From your description, the starter relay is not getting the 12volts, on the "S" post, from the ignition switch, this 12volts activates the starter relay
"S" post is the smaller post on the relay with the red/blue stripe wire

In a 1990 Ranger with automatic trans, the red/blue wire comes from the NSS(neutral safety switch) located above the shift rod on the drivers side of transmission
There is a 4 or 5 wire connector on the NSS
2 or 3 wires(all red/blue, but one may be Pink) these wires are only connected together when transmission is in Park or Neutral, this prevents "starting in gear", so this switch passes the 12v from ignition switch to starter relay "S" post, but only when switch is in the correct position

NSS is a plunger type switch
NSS also has 2 wires for Reverse Lights, these 2 wires are connected together when trans is in Reverse, and then backup/reverse lights should come on

The red/blue wire from ignition switch is actually PINK at the ignition switch, it changes from Pink to red/blue at a connector above brake pedal under dash, this is where a Clutch Pedal Switch would be on a Manual trans Ranger
On some Rangers the Pink wire will stay Pink all the way to NSS


So you have
Ignition switch--(pink wire)---connector under dash----(red/blue or pink)----NSS----(red/blue)----(S post)Starter relay

Thanks for the great description. I will trace those wires and see if one is grounded or disconnected.
If it is the NSS wouldn’t the car start in neutral?

 

[RonD]

Yes, if trans is not shifting far enough to Park on the switch then it should start in Neutral, but if the switch is unplugged or broken...........

Do the Backup Lights work, same switch?

 

[eyesguy]

Yes, the backup lights work. Truck will not start in neutral.

 

[RonD]

But Starter relay on the inner fender still "clicks" with key turned to START?

And its a 3 post starter relay?
2 larger posts and one smaller "S" post with the red/blue wire, and no "I" post

In 1990 Ford was using two different start systems, 2.3l and 2.9l used one kind and 4.0l used another

The 4.0l has a starter motor that has a built-in starter relay/solenoid, the smaller cylinder on top of the motor's larger cylinder, seen here: https://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/images/articles-400-499/400/408/image_1.jpg
So battery's larger positive cable ran directly to the starter motor not to starter relay, a smaller positive cable ran to start relay large post, and then from other large post, a smaller wire to starter motors "relay/solenoid"

2.3l and 2.9l used the older "regular" system
Larger positive cable ran to larger post on starter relay, then larger cable from other large post ran to starter motor
Starter motor looks like this, no Relay on top: https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/sJoAAOSw2Whd0rAl/s-l500.jpg


So depends on which starter motor you are using FIRST, then the wiring can be determined

 

[eyesguy]

Thanks for the reply. Yes, you can hear an audible click. Is there a way to test the s post to see if it is getting current?
I have the 2.9L that has the battery cable going to the starter relay post and other side of the starter relay's post goes to starter. Starter looks just exactly like the link you supplied.
Starter relay is a 3 post OEM solenoid.

 

[ecgreen]

there is also a plug-in ground going from batt to ecu, make sure thats connected. I pulled that one once...lol

 

[eyesguy]

But Starter relay on the inner fender still "clicks" with key turned to START?

And its a 3 post starter relay?
2 larger posts and one smaller "S" post with the red/blue wire, and no "I" post

In 1990 Ford was using two different start systems, 2.3l and 2.9l used one kind and 4.0l used another

The 4.0l has a starter motor that has a built-in starter relay/solenoid, the smaller cylinder on top of the motor's larger cylinder, seen here: https://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/images/articles-400-499/400/408/image_1.jpg
So battery's larger positive cable ran directly to the starter motor not to starter relay, a smaller positive cable ran to start relay large post, and then from other large post, a smaller wire to starter motors "relay/solenoid"

2.3l and 2.9l used the older "regular" system
Larger positive cable ran to larger post on starter relay, then larger cable from other large post ran to starter motor
Starter motor looks like this, no Relay on top: https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/sJoAAOSw2Whd0rAl/s-l500.jpg


So depends on which starter motor you are using FIRST, then the wiring can be determined

Is there a way to check the charge going through the red/blue wire from the ignition to the "s" switch on the starter relay?

 

[RonD]

Yes, just put a volt meter or test light from Ground to red/blue wire, and put it so you can see it from the cab
Turn key to START

Also use a jumper wire from battery positive to "S" post, small post, on the starter relay, that should activate the relay and starter motor

If not relay is bad OR its not Grounded........relay is grounded by its metal frame attached to metal inner fender, and metal inner fender is grounded from a smaller Negative battery cable hooked to inner fender and rad support

 

[eyesguy]

RonD,
Thanks so much, AGAIN
Will try the red/blue voltage tonight and see if that is where the problem lies.

 

[Nelson and Hudson]

So what happened?!?

 

[eyesguy]

It was a short in the wire that goes from the ignition to the starter relay under the steering column. Spliced it together and it works great!