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2.3L ('83-'97) 1990 2.3l Idles rough... vibrates horribly and idles around 800 RPM. HELP PLEASE!!!


Josh B

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I wasn't able to post the Haynes diagram but it's basically just a diagonal criss-cross pattern from the center out
 

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alwaysFlOoReD

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Is this the one you used? 15-22 ft lb in 2 step sequence.

is the site no longer accepting photos?
I posted a pic a few hours ago....
In the speeding in Texas thread.
 

Josh B

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I posted a pic a few hours ago....
In the speeding in Texas thread.
Did you upload it here, or someplace else first? The only option I'm seeing now on my reply window is the Insert Image along the top(no longer an Upload File option below) and it has a seemingly permanent http:// prefix
 

alwaysFlOoReD

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You're right, I don't see an option to upload a pic like I would normally from my computer.
@Jim Oaks
 

Jim Oaks

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DustinW2

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I wasn't able to post the Haynes diagram but it's basically just a diagonal criss-cross pattern from the center out
Yeah that’s the one I saw but upper plenum is the one that broke ?
 

Josh B

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Yeah that’s the one I saw but upper plenum is the one that broke ?
Did you find this part? Criss cross would be just going around it like you would the lugs on a wheel
 

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DustinW2

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Did you find this part? Criss cross would be just going around it like you would the lugs on a wheel
Well I figured out how to upload finally thanks to Jim but it’s common sense to just do a star pattern to evenly crush the gasket which is what I did but it’s like it was made out of pot metal... super weak stuff ?
37379
 

Josh B

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Dang, that's a shame :/ Looks like a weakness in the design also
I wonder if JB Weld would have a chance on that
 

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Everybody I’ve been around is saying “just throw some jb weld on there and say it’s fixed”... I would’ve have done it already but I don’t have any ?
 

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It's worth a try, my only question would be can enough be in there after you get it precisely into position. You wouldn't want any excessive amounts inside which might eventually break off and go through the engine, and there couldn't be any excess on top or you couldn't pull it down evenly. That would still leave a spot on the outside on each end of the crack where you could leave some to build it up a bit.

I know that stuff really holds but don't know how it would work in that situation. I also don't recall how it sets up but you should have a small amount of time to use an exacto knife to carve any excess from inside and off the top to smooth it up. Then let it cure for at least a day.

I went back and looked at the torque specs, the fuel rail and upper intake are both 15-22 ft-lb and the throttle body is 12. I'd go the minimums on the intake and TB if you're trying the J-B weld route, and still that'll only buy you some time to find another one
 

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Depending on angles and how much meat is left, maybe drill and tap for machine screws along with some lock-tight on both the machine screws and along the crack.
 

DustinW2

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It's worth a try, my only question would be can enough be in there after you get it precisely into position. You wouldn't want any excessive amounts inside which might eventually break off and go through the engine, and there couldn't be any excess on top or you couldn't pull it down evenly. That would still leave a spot on the outside on each end of the crack where you could leave some to build it up a bit.

I know that stuff really holds but don't know how it would work in that situation. I also don't recall how it sets up but you should have a small amount of time to use an exacto knife to carve any excess from inside and off the top to smooth it up. Then let it cure for at least a day.

I went back and looked at the torque specs, the fuel rail and upper intake are both 15-22 ft-lb and the throttle body is 12. I'd go the minimums on the intake and TB if you're trying the J-B weld route, and still that'll only buy you some time to find another one
Yeah I found a new one off of a different truck for like 30$ and I think that’s cheaper than a new engine if that jb weld gets through lol... anyways thanks for your help and suggestions guys. I’ll be back with a update sometime this week ??
 

DustinW2

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It's worth a try, my only question would be can enough be in there after you get it precisely into position. You wouldn't want any excessive amounts inside which might eventually break off and go through the engine, and there couldn't be any excess on top or you couldn't pull it down evenly. That would still leave a spot on the outside on each end of the crack where you could leave some to build it up a bit.

I know that stuff really holds but don't know how it would work in that situation. I also don't recall how it sets up but you should have a small amount of time to use an exacto knife to carve any excess from inside and off the top to smooth it up. Then let it cure for at least a day.

I went back and looked at the torque specs, the fuel rail and upper intake are both 15-22 ft-lb and the throttle body is 12. I'd go the minimums on the intake and TB if you're trying the J-B weld route, and still that'll only buy you some time to find another one
Ok I just finished installing the new one... and it’s still doing the same thing. I have no idea what to do at this stage. Any suggestions????
 

Josh B

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Still dying after it starts or still has a power loss?
Power loss might be related to the catalytic converter. Have you figured out how to pull codes on an OBDI ?
Dying after it starts could be any number of things, I wouldn't even know where to say start. Possibly emissions related, ignition, fuses/relays. I'd expect it's either fuel or ignition, or some of the emissions (sender, sensor, computer,ICM)
Maybe someone else has some better clues.
Keep looking and checking and chiming back with you find or don't find.

Like my aunt Rosanna Roseannadanna used to say, "That just goes to show, it's alllways somethin!" :)
 


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