1988 Ranger Restoration - Keeping a Promise


Rangerx2

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Good eye with the parts truck, it's one in the same.

As far as the F350 is concerned, I've tried to trade it in twice now on a Dodge. Neither dealer would offer enough for it. (13500 for a F350 with 46k on it. Wtf.)

First chance I get I'm crushing the F350. Biggest piece of garbage I've ever driven. Gutless pig that gets 12mpg and the trans launches you out of your seat shifting 2 to 3. According to the dealer though, "There's nothing wrong with it" ?
What's it have, the 6.2 gas? Everyone seems to want diesels these days. And even the XLT trim is now considered by many to be "the base work truck". Really? What's that make my XL? LOL Everyone's into the ultra-luxury trucks that cost 5x times more than my first house! BTW I won't mention what I paid for my first house, except that it was in a crappy neighborhood in New Kensington. I bought it as a bank-owned property. My mortgage payments were lower than what my truck payments are now! I moved when got a job out near the airport area and I was commuting 3 hours/day, spending close to $100/week in fuel to feed my F-150. And I got married and didn't want my wife living in that sh**-hole of a neighborhood! :poop:
 


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Dirtman

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So friggin big!
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I'll give you 47 dollars, a carton of unrefrigerated eggs, and 22 half empty jars of used pickle brine for your F350.
 

snoranger

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I’ll give you $53 and a new bong for the F350.
 

Dirtman

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So friggin big!
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Too rich for my blood...

Too-Damn-High.jpg
 

PetroleumJunkie412

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Well. A bit of a sidestep the other day...

Had the torches lit to start grinding up the parts truck for its frame, and dad stopped by. He tapped out the body and got all excited over the fact even with a tree-mangled roof, the parts truck's body is in better shape than KaP's.

So then he asked me how it ran. Fired it up, did some runs around a field. Ran well, but had a weird hesitation. Pulled it back in the garage and popped the hood. Two spark plugs were disconnected.

Connected them back up, went for another ride. Holy sh*t.


Someone did something to this engine. Like. Hardcore. Shoving a snake cam in it tonight to figure out what's been done. It doesn't even sound like a 2.9 when running. It has a weird note to it.










*please be 2.8 flat tops in there. please be 2.8 flat tops in there. come on there Jesus-fellow, I need a win*
 

PetroleumJunkie412

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Well. A bit of a sidestep the other day...

Had the torches lit to start grinding up the parts truck for its frame, and dad stopped by. He tapped out the body and got all excited over the fact even with a tree-mangled roof, the parts truck's body is in better shape than KaP's.

So then he asked me how it ran. Fired it up, did some runs around a field. Ran well, but had a weird hesitation. Pulled it back in the garage and popped the hood. Two spark plugs were disconnected.

Connected them back up, went for another ride. Holy sh*t.


Someone did something to this engine. Like. Hardcore. Shoving a snake cam in it tonight to figure out what's been done. It doesn't even sound like a 2.9 when running. It has a weird note to it.










*please be 2.8 flat tops in there. please be 2.8 flat tops in there. come on there Jesus-fellow, I need a win*
 

DRanger024

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Great build guy. I was born in ‘87 also but never owned a vehicle older than ‘91. Got me pondering putting megasquirt on my ‘94 now, if only just to know exactly what it’s doing. With how much of a hermaphrodite my truck is, it would probably cure a few small issues as well.
 

PetroleumJunkie412

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OK. Bear with me, but I think I finally picked a freakin direction, pending if my logic is sound.

Keep 2.9. Finish engine build and set rods and pistons up to run 7,000 rpm redline.

been talking to UK guys, 2.9 is safe to 7000 no issue if rods and crank are done properly. Following their builds and part numbers closely to plan out bottom end. Re cam and solid lifter (found a proven set). Do failsafe cam bearings while im in there.

Heads are off right now for bowl hog and blending. Even n/a would be a true one of a kind in a ranger when it screams bloody murder at 6500 rpm. Find rpm limitations on m5od in a hurry.

The next part I am sorta torn

If im going super unique high rpm engine with a target output of 240-250HP be better served on a BW 1354 setup like it is now, or plan an eventual changeover to a Dana 28 AWD transfer case and a doubler.

Rear axle is explorer 8.8, front is Dana 35. Im staying ttb at this point. Its cool.

No idea what to do for rear ratio and diff options. Id like to stay on 31s. Current 3.73, front open rear limited slip. Torsen? Wtf is a spool? Ratio considering engine redline? I know absolutely nothing about this stuff. Just know how to do the math on the ratios for speed correction, etc.
 

snoranger

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Keeping the 2.9 and working the motor is your best option... you made your bed, now lie in it.

I don’t see the M5OD being very happy at 6500 rpm, but you’ll have to find that out on your own.

The 13-54 is a good T-case, stick with it. I’d pull it apart and check the condition of the oil pump and chain. The only issue they have is the tab on the pump wearing and allowing it to spin free.

Explorer 8.8 and D35... ??

A spool is a solid locked rear... you don’t want it for the street. Torsen, Detroit, air locker, E-locker... Take your pick.
Don’t worry about redline for your gear ratio, worry about your torque. If your torque is low and comes on slowly, 4.11s. If your torque is high and stays steady until redline, stay with 3.73s.
 

alwaysFlOoReD

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Is it going to be mainly dirt or street?
Dirt either 1354 or dana28
Street dana28
What is the top speed you need to reach? That determines gear ratio.
 

turbo91xlt

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Find rpm limitations on m5od in a hurry.
I turned my 2.3 turbo / m5od / 1354 combo to 6500rpm's plenty of times

The next part I am sorta torn

If im going super unique high rpm engine with a target output of 240-250HP be better served on a BW 1354 setup like it is now, or plan an eventual changeover to a Dana 28 AWD transfer case and a doubler.
The front axle will be the weak point, 95% of the automotive AWD industry uses CV joints, not U-joints for steering axles since their strength stays consistent & smoother throughout their operating arc on pavement. I'd look into RCV axles if you really wanna go this route.
 


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