2.3L ('83-'97) 1988 Ranger issues, misfires, running rich

[Fairtax4me]

Hey guys, used to be a member here several years ago, and just bought another Ranger that needs some TLC, but it's a solid truck, which is hard to find anymore in this area.
It's a 1988, 2.3, 2wd, MT, ext. cab.

It sat for several years, but a new battery made it fire right up, even ran OK on the ancient gas that was in the tank. I had to replace the clutch, u-joints, a brake caliper, and put a new hose from the clutch MC to the trans.

Problems it has now are, it will not start without starting fluid, and when it finally does start, it runs about 10 seconds and then starts puking black smoke. I can't even run it for more than a few minutes in my shop because it's running so rich.
Tried to see if it had any codes, and when i hook up a jumper wire and test light (no CEL on this one that I can tell) all I get is a solid light from the test light. No blinking or anything. Tried an analog voltmeter and same thing, it just stays at 12.5V.
Another thing it does, with the key ON the fuel pumps run constantly. Both pumps were replaced previously and appear to be in good shape. Fuel pressure is spot on at 40PSI with Key On. Once the engine is running it sits around 35, and will go to 40 with the FPR vacuum line removed. No fuel in the vacuum line, so FPR is fine for now.
I'm thinking I need to figure out the diagnostic light issue first, since that seems to be a computer related issue. Bad grounds or bad wiring, but just hoping for some ideas where to look.

Another issue is, I can't find the spout connector on this thing to check ignition timing. It's not in the wire harness for the Module on the distributor, it's not on the drivers fender well with all of the other wiring, it's not on the passenger side under the black cover with the relays, it's not anywhere on the firewall. Anybody know exactly where it would be on this year? I know I can cut the wire n the 5th pin to the module and get the same thing, but it just bothers me to not be able to find that, since its always pretty obvious on these older fords.

Any help is greatly appreciated. Trying to get this old girl back into shape and maybe make a weekend rider out of her or make her reliable enough to use for my Fishing and kayak adventures.

 

[tomw]

Know how to solder? The pump run can be caused by bad caps on the ECM board. Continuous pump run is a symptom associated with ECM problems.
I don't know how long you waited, but in a 97 3.9 Tbird, it would not start unless the pump pre-pressure run did its thing and then the pump stopped. You had to let them run as long as they wanted, and then it would run. New computer in that case. The EEC-IV boards had real caps on them that could leak and fail. They CAN be repaired using new caps. Circuit Board Medics will test your computer, dunno the charge.
Follow the wires from the TFI module and the spout connector should be along that bundle. It may be inside the protecitve ribbed wrap. If timing was never diddled with, the SPOUT jumper could still be inside. I assume it has the black split style plastic cover...
I *think* you are getting a flooded engine as the ECM is sort of on vacation...
tom

 

[Fairtax4me]

Thanks man, that's some real information that is the kind of thing I always hope for in a reply! The ECM issue also makes sense that it will not give me any blink codes.

The fuel pumps will run indefinitely if the key is left on. I think the longest I had the key On a few days ago while doing some wiggle testing was about 5 minutes, pumps ran the entire time.

I can solder quite well, and even used to have a nice setup for solder removal and re-soldering small pins on PCBs, but haven't used any of it in years. (not since my RC hobby days) Not even sure if I still have it. A "Reman" ECM for one of these is relatively inexpensive, and at that I'm pretty sure I can borrow a used one from a buddy of mine that runs a salvage yard not far from me. I'll try to find the one in the truck (assuming it's under the dash somewhere) and open it up and see if anythings kersploded inside.

 

[PetroleumJunkie412]

Or just put a microsquirt in it and have the best ECM on the market...

 

[Waldoduhh]

CEL light bulb is probably blown, pull out the cluster and check, they just twist right out.

 

[tomw]

The ECM is behind the kick panel on the passenger side. It hangs sort of vertical.
Some Rangers in that time frame did not put a bulb in the CEL socket on the cluster. I don't know when they became standard or were required. Mine does not have a bulb, a socket, nor conductors on the flexible 'circuit' plastic.
The electrolyte in the capacitors can leak out and cause corrosion of the 'vias' on the circuit board and break conductivity. The capacitor will also become close to a 'short' in the circuit when it is failing. I think there are a few videos about the problem on youtube. There are only a few caps on the EEC-IV boards, well caps that look like electrolytic caps.
The ECM will be sitting in a white plastic retainer, and I think just one Philips screw needs to be removed, and the retainer flexed out of the way, and it will come out.
tom

 

[Fairtax4me]

You were spot on Tom, thanks! There are two radial caps on the ECM board and one of them is mighty rough looking and the other is not looking great either. For about $5 for both with shipping I'll try to replace these and hopefully that takes care of it.

There is no lamp or socket for a CEL light on this one.