1988 ranger 2.9L overheating

[Ray1995]

ive replaced thermostat to a 175° one and replaced radiator, radiator cap, temperature sensor, coolant, water pump, all the coolant lines, heater core, new electric fan, everything but head gasket but not getting any coolant in my oil and i loose about a cup a week and says it over heats sometimes but not getting and boil over or anything

 

[gaz]

Are your hoses leaking, I use double clamps on each end.

First, remove your thermostat and check it to make sure that it works properly, even if it's new.

If everything else is verified not leaking or new and your heater core isn't leaking, to troubleshoot your "leak", leave the Tstat out and run the engine with no Tstat for a tank of fuel, see if it holds it's water.

 

[rusty ol ranger]

Youre sure its overheating? Or is it a gauge issue?

Mine will randomly jump to "H" sometimes when i press the clutch to stop. But the other gauges also climb.

Have you bled the system after all that?

 

[RonD]

ive replaced thermostat to a 175° one and replaced radiator, radiator cap, temperature sensor, coolant, water pump, all the coolant lines, heater core, new electric fan, everything but head gasket but not getting any coolant in my oil and i loose about a cup a week and says it over heats sometimes but not getting and boil over or anything

Welcome to TRS

Cold engine
Remove rad cap
Top up rad with water if its not at the top
Start engine
Watch rad coolant level
There might be an overflow at startup, but just for a second or two
Watch for more over flow
let it idle for 2 minutes
There should be no overflowing or bubbles in the rad cap opening
If there is you have a bad head gasket or cracked head, coolant in the oil rarely happens anymore because of better gasket material, but can happen
Absence of coolant in the oil is not a "sign" of anything

For a better test search our forum for Glove Test

 

[Boldster]

Ray, this may be can help you. I replace EVERYTHING on the cooling system of my 88 2.9L ( water pump, hoses, radiator, thermostat, fan clutch, heater core, etc, etc, etc and looking for Motorcraft or Ford parts, no cheap aftermarket trash) trying to solve kind of possessed temp gauge... one day high temp on traffic stops, next day high temp on the highway, other day normal temp, next day high temp if I turn on the AC and so .... replaced 4 thermostat, different brands and temps.... problem still. Totally tired of the problems I decide to remove the thermostat... then she run too cold and start to drinking gas like a 747 Jumbo... So, I decide to do something I hear from my father 50 years ago, drill four 1/8" holes on the thermostat to improve water flow and reduce the thermal shock over the radiator every time the thermostat open, also help to remove air from the system... well, problem solved. I know is not the perfect technical solution but it works, temp is stable now on the "M" and I can drive safely, looking traffic outside with both eyes instead have one on the temp gauge all the time... I order now a new thermostat, 160 degrees that offer 50% more water flow to test if it works, I will keep you posted....

 

[Boldster]

Follow Up of the cooling system adventure... I install a Motorad high flow 180F thermostat ( Mod # 2040180) no holes drilled... Now temp gauge goes very quickly to the center of the scale (between R and M) and the most important, remain there even with the AC on and driving on rush hours traffic here in the nice Central Florida summer temperatures ( 90-100F). I get back my mental health !!!