1988 2.9L neutral safety switch?

[35Remmy]

Its NOT supposed to be cut!!!!! I turned key to KOEO and fuel pump relay and pump energized!!! Appears that wire just broke.....were getting somewhere!!!!

 

[RobbieD]

Glad to help; having the diagrams in your hands at least gives you something to work with.

Getting the electrical sorted out first is the way to go. Just take your time, and take it one step at a time.

 

[35Remmy]

Ok so i moved on to power windows... i am getting 12.7V at the 2 harness connections at the fenderwells.....but i cannot get a voltage reading from the back of either switch.....shouldnt I? I checked the fuse for continuity and i am getting a solid 0, so i believe it checks out.

 

[RobbieD]

Yes, you should see 12V+ on both sides on the light blue/black wire at the switches. Even if the switches have voltage, it needs ground, too. Power window ground (G101) is a single black wire bolted to radiator support, on the engine side, at the upper driver side of the radiator opening. Look for a black wire with a ring terminal coming out of the harness going across, and make sure it's bolted tight to clean metal. The motor wires should both show ground, except when either switch is operated. It's easier to troubleshoot the driver side first, then the passenger side.

Sounds like you're making progress. Did you get the motor to crank and run?

 

[35Remmy]

Ok i will be in garage later tonight and post the results.

No i havent started the engine yet, thats going to be a whole 'nother adventure wiring up the MSD stuff since im fairly new to this.

I had the entire front clip off to replace the radiator support and just got it all welded back together after the 363/C4 were set in place. Now im just tackling all of the basic electronic functions before i move ahead any further, i want everything to work as it should before i removed all of the harnesses to paint the engine bay.

 

[35Remmy]

Ok i will be in garage later tonight and post the results.

No i havent started the engine yet, thats going to be a whole 'nother adventure wiring up the MSD stuff since im fairly new to this.

I had the entire front clip off to replace the radiator support and just got it all welded back together after the 363/C4 were set in place. Now im just tackling all of the basic electronic functions before i move ahead any further, i want everything to work as it did before i removed all of the harnesses to paint the engine bay.

Oh. And for what its worth all of the switches were replaced with NOS switches

 

[35Remmy]

Ok Ron, i checked ground, good clean ground, and i am getting 12.25 V at the back of both the door lock switch and the window switch. Why arent they working!!!!!!

 

[35Remmy]

Both relays for the passenger side door lock energize when the switch is depressed by the way so i know my relays are good

 

[RobbieD]

A factory system didn't have relays. Can you post a pic of the back of the driver's side power lock/window switch?

 

[RobbieD]

I'm sorry; we got crossed up working on two systems at the same time. Power windows- no relays. Doorlocks on an '88- does have relays. Gimme a minute and I'll post the EVTM pages you need to figure it out.

 

[RobbieD]

Schematics attached; look 'em over, and read the "how the circuit works"; it will help with your troubleshooting the systems. Then use the "troubleshooting tips" for your testing.

 

[35Remmy]

Ron, coincientally i was JUST looking through my ford shop manuals and i just found this same manual! I didnt even realize i had it. Thanks again for all of your help. I HATE electrical bc i dont understand it

 

[RobbieD]

Very cool! If you have the EVTM manual, you've got the keys to the kingdom in your hands. Trust in The Force, Luke- use the manual, and you'll be able to understand things, and get it resolved. If you get stuck, holler. Good luck!

 

[35Remmy]

Ron, how exactly do i check for continuity to ground? My meter only has ohms...i know it should read 0, but what wires am i checking? Specifically, "With ignition switch OFF, check for continuity to ground. If bad, repair G200"....?

 

[RobbieD]

In that case, you're testing that the ground wire terminal at the component in question has a 0 or very low number on the meter ohm scale, to the battery negative post (battery ground cable connected). In other words, you're testing that ground wire at say, a doorlock switch, has no or very little resistance in its path back to the battery negative post.

Do you have a 12 volt test light? For power doorlock and window systems, a test light works very well, and is easier to use especially if you don't have a lot of electrical experience.

Which of the systems are you trying to troubleshoot?