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1987 v6 woes




franklin2

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I have not. Reckon that's next.
I wouldn't till you pulled the codes. On these older trucks, a lot of them did not have a check engine light, only a emissions light. You are correct, you need a testlight and a jumper and you should be able to pull the codes if you can find the plugs under the hood. A old type multi-meter with the needle will work also to read the pulses.
 

alwaysFlOoReD

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I've tried to pull codes. Even though I have a spot on the dash that says "Check Engine" it doesn't illuminate. My multimeter is digital so I need to buy a test light.
My 86 never had a check engine light, it never had one from the factory. It may be your 87 doesn't either. You can still get the codes by using the plug under the hood, passenger side, buried close to the firewall.
 

gaz

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1987
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87Ranger Endrigo 2.9l, 87BII Endrigo 4.0l
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Ranger 5" (1.5" suspension), BII 4" suspension
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Ranger 5sp, BII A4LD
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I can get KEKO codes from the instrument panel on my 87 Ranger. Doing by hand with a key may require some practice, definitely patience. I usually get the "timing" correct 1 out of 6 attempts. Have a pen a paper handy, better yet a third hand to write them down.
 

rusty ol ranger

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1987
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Ford
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2.9 V6
Engine Size
177 CID
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Manual
2WD / 4WD
2WD
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Just spend the 30 bucks and get the innova EEC IV reader
 

OftenWrongNeverUncertain

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I just replaced the IAC and that made no difference. I DID notice if I allow the pump to prime 20 times before cranking that it will start, run for 2 seconds then shut off immediately.

With that in mind I'd assume my previous thoughts were wrong. I'll rediagnose my fuel system, starting with the regulator and going from there. Maybe I just have water in my gas, I don't know. I just know I maintained 38 to 40psi while it runs.
 

dfratus

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Well, that had no effect. Also, I am getting spark because the timing light blinks when hooked up.
=only thing fersure is uncertain
Hey guys, I'm enjoying your project and progress. Jussayin --- have you checked the spark plugs? Jusshadta ask huh?
 

rusty ol ranger

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OftenWrongNeverUncertain

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Whelp the fuel pump quit again. Following these instructions from this page ( THANKS RON!!! ) I found a bad relay, brown base.

RonD , 02-24-2017
RF Veteran

Fuel pump relay's coil gets 12volts with key on, but has no Ground so relay doesn't close
That 12volts comes from EEC relay(brown base), it also powers spark and fuel injectors, along with EEC(computer).

With key off one of the slots in Fuel pump relay base(green) will have 12volts, thats the battery power via fusible link
Turn key on
A second slot should now show 12volts, that the power from the EEC relay, if no power then either the wire from EEC relay to fuel pump relay(red wire) is bad or EEC relay or it's fusible link is bad.

If second slot does have 12volts then fuel pump relay is not being Grounded by the EEC

Relay slot image here: http://www.reuk.co.uk//OtherImages/4...tive-relay.jpg
If there is a 5th slot(below 87) ignore it

85 and 86 are the Coil connections
87 and 30 are the Load connections, 87 and 30 are connected when relay closes, these are the slots you jumped to get fuel pumps to run

So either 85 or 86 should have 12volts with key on

The other one would be the Ground wire running to the computer.
Might be a light blue wire

Red wire should be the 12volts from EEC Relay

You can add your own ground splice if that wire seems to be the problem, that will get you up and running and won't hurt anything because thats what computer does
Fuel pump will still go off with key
 

rusty ol ranger

Im a Jeep guy now.
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1987
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Engine Type
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Engine Size
177 CID
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
2WD
My credo
A legend to the old man, a hero to the child...

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