2.3L ('83-'97) 1987 Ranger Not Running

[Sailorlou]

Hi All,

I'm a novice and trying to get my 1987 Ranger 2.3L, Manuel Trans. running. This truck was setting for 18 years. Below are all the things I've done so far.

Replaced both Fuel Pumps and cleaned Fuel Tank.
Replaced Spark Plugs
Replaced Fuel Injectors
Replaced Distributer Cap, Rotor and Plug Wires
Replaced Clutch Master and Slave Cylinders
Replaced Battery
Replaced Timing Belt and set timing marks with cam and crank and #1 cylinder at compression TDC with rotor set at #1 plug. Firing order 1,3,4,2.

The truck has only 120,000 miles on it.
Compression is 180 in every cylinder. Bore Scoped all Cylinders, they are in great shape. Pulled valve cover and the cam and valve train all looks to be in great shape. Checked all vacuum lines.
Fuel Pressure is 40 psi, Fuel rail is clean and gas flows. Can hear Injectors click.
Have good spark at Coil and all Plugs. Wiring all looks good.
Engine cranks good with no bad noises. Engine will fire on starting fluid and tries to fire on gas but will not run.
I'm running out of ideas. Could it be a bad computer, the Ignition Module or are there some sensors that could keep it from running?
Can only test for codes with ignition on and not running - no codes.
Any suggestions or testing ideas would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Brain75]

starts on fluid, but only tries on fuel points to fuel filter/pump.. "new is new, not necessarily good" was it aftermarket or oem (i think ford used bosch pumps in their motorcraft brand at that time)
(my suspicion is filter if you didn't replace it and the gas is 5+ years old)
Edit: I was a little rushed when I wrote that... anyhow, either you have good pressure all the time or only when you looked at it. if you only tested it during prime and couldn't stand over it while cranking then the pressure might be dying as soon as it tries to catch (bad pump or clogged filter)...

 

[Sailorlou]

starts on fluid, but only tries on fuel points to fuel filter/pump.. "new is new, not necessarily good" was it aftermarket or oem (i think ford used bosch pumps in their motorcraft brand at that time)
(my suspicion is filter if you didn't replace it and the gas is 5+ years old)
Edit: I was a little rushed when I wrote that... anyhow, either you have good pressure all the time or only when you looked at it. if you only tested it during prime and couldn't stand over it while cranking then the pressure might be dying as soon as it tries to catch (bad pump or clogged filter)...

Have a new pump and filter. Constant pressure at 40 psi. Fuel flows all the way through fuel rail and have new injectors. So that's not the problem. Thanks for your reply.

 

[Sailorlou]

Have a new pump and filter. Constant pressure at 40 psi. Fuel flows all the way through fuel rail and have new injectors. So that's not the problem. Thanks for your reply.

Also have new gas.

 

[Brain75]

replaced fuel injectors.. where did you get em? factory or refurbished factory are excellent, aftermarket are junk. Do you still have the OEM fuel injectors?


These old Dizzy systems are pretty simple, Fuel/Air/Fire - you have all 3 she will run. Sounds like you got fire, but having played with timing and plug wires things can be off.... starting on fluid and catching on fuel then dying really really points to fuel delivery - something in the fuel delivery system is my suspect.... you have changed too much all at once.

 

[Brain75]

course there is the elephant in the room... why was it parked 18 years ago? "wouldn't run" as a reason introduced a whole host of issues.

 

[jaybyrd]

Hi All,

I'm a novice and trying to get my 1987 Ranger 2.3L, Manuel Trans. running. This truck was setting for 18 years. Below are all the things I've done so far.

Replaced both Fuel Pumps and cleaned Fuel Tank.
Replaced Spark Plugs
Replaced Fuel Injectors
Replaced Distributer Cap, Rotor and Plug Wires
Replaced Clutch Master and Slave Cylinders
Replaced Battery
Replaced Timing Belt and set timing marks with cam and crank and #1 cylinder at compression TDC with rotor set at #1 plug. Firing order 1,3,4,2.

The truck has only 120,000 miles on it.
Compression is 180 in every cylinder. Bore Scoped all Cylinders, they are in great shape. Pulled valve cover and the cam and valve train all looks to be in great shape. Checked all vacuum lines.
Fuel Pressure is 40 psi, Fuel rail is clean and gas flows. Can hear Injectors click.
Have good spark at Coil and all Plugs. Wiring all looks good.
Engine cranks good with no bad noises. Engine will fire on starting fluid and tries to fire on gas but will not run.
I'm running out of ideas. Could it be a bad computer, the Ignition Module or are there some sensors that could keep it from running?
Can only test for codes with ignition on and not running - no codes.
Any suggestions or testing ideas would be greatly appreciated.

Faulty and Mass air flow sensor
possibly

 

[scotts90ranger]

Faulty and Mass air flow sensor
possibly

'87 uses a MAP sensor, it should start with that screwed up or at least try

 

[SenorNoob]

After trying to start it without the starting fluid, can you tell if fuel has made it to the cylinders. I'd expect the plugs to be wet.

Edit: Wet plugs can make then bad too. I've fought it enough on small engines.

 

[Sailorlou]

Appreciate the replies, but still have a starting problem. All the items I replaced were due to it setting for so long. Bad fuel plugged up everything so I replaced or cleaned all fuel components. Spark was good but cap and rotor showed wear so I replaced them. Plugs were old but not terribly bad so I replaced them along with plug wires. The timing and serpentine belts were old and weathered so I replaced them.
When I first acquired the truck, before I did any of the replacements, it would fire on starting fluid but not continue to run. It was doing the same thing it's doing now after all the replacement parts. I realize that when I have spark, fuel and air it should run as long as timing is correct, which I believe is. The new fuel injectors are OEM spec.
I am stumped as to what else it could be. Some sensor I didn't replace? The computer? How can I test the computer?

 

[Brain75]

OEM spec is not necessarily OEM... I haven't seen an aftermarket that was worth 2 beans... ignoring that and just assuming your injectors are good.

Do you have a Haynes (preferably) or Chilton?
At the front of the book is a troubleshooting section, I don't want to read the manual to you, but if you don't have one/library I will post a pic for ya.



Did you get your timing diagram from here (TRS):

Timing belt 2.3l diagram (DETAILED)

Second picture of 2.3L ranger timing belt:icon_thumby:

www.therangerstation.com

note in zoomed view B the TWO marks on that , triangle and timing mark.

another handmade that is really good (except the keyway, see comments post #2, etc):

2.3 liter timing marks diagram - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource

SOHC - 2.3L & 2.5L Lima Engines - 2.3 liter timing marks diagram - I haven't posted on here before now, but I thought I'd share this diagram I put together for anyone doing a rebuild on a 2.3 liter engine that might be a little confused (as I was) on where all the timing marks are, and how to...

www.ranger-forums.com

Fuel filter installed backwards?

The inertia switch stops the fuel pump from running, if you have 40psi I am sure it is not there but you might glance at it sideways.

If you are 99.9% confident the timing is all assembled right and the filter isn't backwards, then I go back to injectors, pull em and bench test em (google bench testing fuel injectors for a mootube video) just cause they click does not mean that they pass fluid. Have a fire extinguisher on hand and work safely! Could be you have dud aftermarket, could be a little crappy gas plugged em right away. Unless they are motorcraft, I personally would bench test / unstick / clean the motorcraft ones and when you pull the old just swap em.

The computer wont stop it from starting, it doesn't really engage until ~1 full second after it starts (minimum 400 rpm if I remember right). If you just can't be convinced to look at the fuel system anymore (starts on ether but not on it's own is a DEAD giveaway to a fuel system issue), then my only other place to throw parts at it is the coil pack, but I don't think you need to look there.

 

[Sailorlou]

OK. The problem is definitely fuel. Testing the injectors I get 12 volts on the red wire but I don't seem to be getting any voltage on the tan and white wires that also goes to the injectors. What should I see on the tan and white wires?

 

[Sailorlou]

With the key on I have a solid 12 volts on the red wires without being plugged into the injectors, but no pulse on the red wires when turning over the engine. Do I have to have the injector wires plugged into the injectors to see the 12 volt pulse on the red wires or should the 12 pulse show up on the tan and white wires?

 

[Brain75]

I don't remember there being anything more than just 2 wires to each injector... too lazy to go rip my engine apart for this, so looked at haynes and chilton, chilton shows a good closeup picture of a connector and it is 2 pins (they demonstrate using a 'noid' light to test - definitely 2 pin).... is this a transplanted engine from somewhere?

 

[Brain75]

for that matter, I haven't seen more than 2 wires on any fuel injector.... the noid light test sets all have 2 pins:

(noid light test set for all engines from canadian tire parts store)