1987 ford ranger, $6,000 and a toolbox.

[85_Ranger4x4]

I also believe the only reason the 2.9 gets tossed away like trash is because the 4.0 is basically a drop in. Had the 4.0 been based off say, the 3.0 then the 2.9 would be much more highly regarded.

I don't think the ol' milkshake maker ever had much chance at being highly regarded in the US.

Whatever its problem was, manifolds or what... it had issues in the US.

 

[Shran]

If the 4.0 wasn't a good swap option, you'd see a lot more trucks with V8s, and even more than that just sent to the junkyard. The 4.0 was just the perfect storm of drivetrain for so many people... And with donor trucks so cheap, why not?

351w is a good option. You may need custom headers - 302s are hard enough to plumb for exhaust, 351 is a couple inches wider.

I am pretty committed to building a 408 stroker engine for my F150 that will run on 87 octane. From what I've read, it's fairly easy to do and make 350+ HP. Of course building a higher compression engine will make more but I want to drive it a lot. My truck is fuel injected and I have two spare 96/97 5.8 blocks, harnesses, etc but will probably end up using fitech or Holley EFI for ease of tuning instead of the factory parts.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

If the 4.0 wasn't a good swap option, you'd see a lot more trucks with V8s, and even more than that just sent to the junkyard. The 4.0 was just the perfect storm of drivetrain for so many people... And with donor trucks so cheap, why not?

+1.

No more flavor of the month manual transmissions, you got the 1354 with fixed front output (for 4wd guys) A better front axle (for 4wd guys) 8.8 rear axle... a lot of good things came with the 4.0.

I am pretty committed to building a 408 stroker engine for my F150 that will run on 87 octane. From what I've read, it's fairly easy to do and make 350+ HP. Of course building a higher compression engine will make more but I want to drive it a lot. My truck is fuel injected and I have two spare 96/97 5.8 blocks, harnesses, etc but will probably end up using fitech or Holley EFI for ease of tuning instead of the factory parts.

I too have been tempted by a 351W. I know where there is a late model one with good crosshatch in the bores sitting waiting to find a forever home which doesn't make it any easier. More cooling issues, have to redo the exhaust and intake, not sure about carb... it is a lot of rework that has already been reworked for me which is why I keep telling myself no.

 

[Shran]

They are just such good engines. One of my core engines was pulled out of an F250 that had 330,000 miles on it!

I'd probably never put one in a Ranger just because of the size, but I do love them.

 

[Zane]

Just an update, finally found a m5od-r1 at a local u pull. Price out the door 800 for trans transfer and front rear shafts. Got my rear axle back ordered tube stock to start bed cage for long travel rear.

 

[Zane]

They are just such good engines. One of my core engines was pulled out of an F250 that had 330,000 miles on it!

I'd probably never put one in a Ranger just because of the size, but I do love them.

I had an old bronco with the 351w thing wouldn't die even after putting it under water for a couple of days when I got it home and changed the oil it was white, but cleared out the cylinders and put new oil in and she cranked right up like nothing happened. Ran for 2 years after that trans died on me eventually.

 

[ramit04]

Got any updates?

 

[Bracket racer]

So, late coming to the thread but have been drag racing ...forever... I'll throw a different perspective on this.

Instead of looking at what you got and trying to get where you want to be, see where you want to be and build to get there.

You want a cheap 13 sec 4wd truck.
Squeezing a little 4cyl might (could?) get you there, but for how long and what would the drivability be? (1200rpm idle, peak hp at 7000?)
351/4bbl will easily make the tq to do the job...but, will you just find the next weakest link? (blew the t case, replaced it, blew the tranny, replaced it, blew the u joints, replaced it...etc...)

I would buy a used 4x4 150/bronco/etc with what you want and transfer everything over. A lighter ranger will be easier on parts than the donor vehicle and if you need to bump the hp a bit you still won't get into parts breakage territory if you're only running 13 seconds.

Also, do you want it to be consistent 13 sec or a "pull the trigger and look at the score board to see what you run" kind of truck? Small eng/turbo/nitrous/etc will all lead to inconsistent runs. Yes it might turn the number, but a 13.2, 13.9, 13.5, is only good for test and tunes, not racing. (unless that's all you want)

Another consideration is hp required. Yes the number you quoted in theory will produce those time slips, the problem is, ET is based on suspension and trap speed is based on hp. So, X weight and Y hp is never quite right when you get to the track because you don't have optimum gearing/traction/weight transfer/etc. I've seen a 450hp (on the dyno) run in the 13's and I've seen a stock olds 455 with probably 200hp in an old flopper body run low 11's. Calculators are pretty close in a race set up, not so much in a stock set up.

$250 you can get a 3.75 stroke crank off ebay that uses 302 flat top pistons to make 396 cu in. A set of GT40P heads and .512 lift/230 dur @ .050 cam with 373 gears and low, reliable 13's will be no problem. Plus, the torque will blast you out of holes from idle on up to 5500 and make you think you're running a big block.

Anyway, my $.02