1986 Ranger runs rough cold


Alaska Diesel

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We might have some here on campus. I'll look around.
 


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alwaysFlOoReD

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If you have any computer geeks ask for some of their " arctic silver" or similar. Its what they use for the heatsink to cpu.
 

Paulos

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I believe that dielectric grease is essentially silicone grease. One of these days I'm going to take a spare ignition module, make some wire extensions to separate it from the distributor, and monitor the temperature with the engine running. To be honest, I've never once seen where Ford recommended the use of a TIM (thermal interface material) aka heat sink grease on an ignition module.
 

PetroleumJunkie412

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Thermal paste has carbon in it to conduct heat.

Dielectric grease is voltage isolating and washout resistant.

Miles apart.

Tfi on the distributor sucks. It's just a bad idea.

Relocation is only sensible solution.

Make sure to use RF insulated wiring harness if you do. TFI signal.is corrupted by static/stray/RF interference
 

Paulos

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Thermal paste has carbon in it to conduct heat.

Dielectric grease is voltage isolating and washout resistant.

Miles apart.

Tfi on the distributor sucks. It's just a bad idea.

Relocation is only sensible solution.

Make sure to use RF insulated wiring harness if you do. TFI signal.is corrupted by static/stray/RF interference
Yeah, I figure that Ford removed the module from the distributor in later models because of the excessive heat transfer from the distributor/engine to the TFI module. The Ford OEM heatsinks that some of the later model modules are attached to are really pitiful cast aluminum heatsinks that don't appear to offer much in the way of cooling in comparison to a PC CPU's heatsink (PC CPU's can actually produce a LOT of heat, and often require much more elaborate cooling).
 

Alaska Diesel

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ok, thanks.
I was able to come up with some heatsink.
 

Alaska Diesel

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I put the other fti on and it still runs just as rough.
I put 12 volts to the IAC valve and it works.
 

Paulos

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Possibly an injector stuck open. If you have a fuel pressure tester, pressurize the system, turn off the engine, and check the pressure. It should not leak-down quickly, and should not have leaked down much after about a minute. If the pressure drops quickly and the rest of the system is in good condition, it's injectors.
 

Alaska Diesel

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Ok I'll try that.
 

Alaska Diesel

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It'll idle at 32 psi. When I turn it off it goes up to 37.5 psi, then after 6 ,minuets the pressure goes up to 38.5
I noticed when I step on the throttle the psi will jump from 32 psi up to 38 or 40 psi. This is when it starts to die so I let it off and the fuel pressure drops back to 32 psi.
 

Alaska Diesel

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I also checked vacuum and it's good.
 

Alaska Diesel

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Any suggestions on how to test the rpms? My cluster does not have the tachometer on it.
I've been looking at how this engine runs and that is the only thing left for setting the mixture besides wiring and the O2 sensor.
 

alwaysFlOoReD

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there should be a tach tool that has 2 wires that hook to the battery +ve and -ve and another that either surrounds or is in line with the #1 spark plug wire. Were common with timing light sets back in the day, don't know about now.
 

Alaska Diesel

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I need to test how the computer is getting the rpms.
 

alwaysFlOoReD

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Not very knowledgeable on the subject. Isn't there a 36-1 tooth crank trigger thingamabob that feeds rpm?
 


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