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1986 Ford Ranger 2.3l Ignition Control Module (Distributor Mounted)

Deadkid9110

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Apr 29, 2011
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Location
Mitchell, SD
Vehicle Year
1985
Make / Model
Ford
Engine Size
2.8l V6
Transmission
Manual
Hello all, a few months ago I took my truck into the High School auto shop to redo all the brakes. When we finished overhauling the brakes, I tried starting the truck and it did not start. It cranked over, but did not fire. It ran fine before all of this.

Here's what I know:
- Does not start (Obviously)
- Spins
- No spark from Spark Plugs (Tested with a tester, and tried starting fluid straight in the manifold; Both showed no spark)

It didn't bother me much because I don't have a title for the truck yet, but I'm wanting to get her all fixed up and running now. I've been told Two things could have gone wrong:
- Ignition Control Module
- Inertia Switch

I'm leaning more towards the ICM; When the truck ran, it ran fine until it was warm then it mis-fired. I got a new ICM and tried replacing it, but the bolts on those are a PITA to get to, and I can't see what kind of bolts are holding it down. I have a few questions regarding both scenarios;

ICM - What kind of bolts are holding it to the distributor? What's the easiest way to replace it?

Inertia Switch - Should the button be up or down? When I inspected mine, the button was down, so I pop'd it up and it did not stay up, it just came back down.

Any input? Ask me questions if needed; I might not know the answer ASAP but I'll try. Thanks! :D
 


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cody93

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V8 Engine Swap
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Duluth GA
Vehicle Year
1987
Make / Model
FORD
Engine Type
V8
Engine Size
5.0
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
2WD
ineria switch is suposed to be pushed in, when its tripped, it shuts off the fuel pumps, not ignitions AFAIK. so i whould rule out inertia switch
 

tomw

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toenails of foothills NW of Atlanta
Vehicle Year
1985
Make / Model
ford
Engine Type
2.3 (4 Cylinder)
Engine Size
lima bean
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Manual
2WD / 4WD
2WD
My credo
vertical and above ground
You need to get a special socket wrench for the TFI modules. It is a thin-walled socket with a knob for a handle. About 3-5 bucks at auto parts stores, and definitely worth it in time saved.
If you get out your books, you can test the TFI in place using a VOM and some jumper wires. The coil should have 12 volts on it when the key is "ON", and the TFI will provide a path to ground, to build the EM field, and then 'takeaway' the ground, forcing the field to collapse. Same - old, same - old from about 100 years ago. The TFI also has a "start" position to provide full voltage to the coil when starting, that is lowered after the engine starts, because the switch in the cab moves from the "start" position.
Get a spark plug, put it in the single coil output, and ground the shell of the plug. Turn the key from Off to On to Off. When you last turn it off, the plug should fire. I think.
You can also ohm out the coil. I had one fail on an 85 when my brother in law borrowed it. The coil failed, and I didn't believe the test results, so took the distributor all apart and replaced the pickup in the bowl of the distributor, put it back together, and it still wouldn't start. Got a coil for $18, and it fired right up... Check the easy stuff first..
tom
 

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