1986 2.9 5 speed 4wd trans won't come off

[beerhunter]

Hi,
As per the title, the trans WILL NOT pull free.
I have removed the 4 Bell House bolts, plus the 2 for the starter, which I believe is all that holds it on. But the sumbitch will not shift.
Using ratchet straps around the axle (seriously!) swearing furiously, and levering insofar as possible, I can now see daylight all around between bellhouse and engine. But it won't pull completely free of the dowels.
I have tried raising and lowering both the engine, and the box. To no avail.
Is there something silly I am missing? Sadly its not possible to lever from above as no clearance.
Thanks!

 

[franklin2]

I can't remember exactly, but aren't the dowel pins hollow with bolts in the middle of them? If so, there are 4 bolts higher than the dowel pin holes. If the dowel pins have bolts, then there are six bolts altogether not counting the two starter bolts and the two little shield bolts.

 

[beerhunter]

Thanks for the reply.
They are indeed hollow (at least they seem to be, but I can't swear to it as it is all still stuck together) , but there aren't any bolts in there.

 

[RobbieD]

Should be 6 bellhousing-to-engine bolts.

The 2 top ones, up high on the bellhousing, can be seen and accessed better after lowering the rear of the transmission.

The 2 middle ones do go through the locating dowells.

EDIT: it's the 2 lower of 6 bellhousing bolts that go through the dowels. Damn CRS. See the pic I added.

 

[beerhunter]

So there are 2 for the starter, 2 through the dowels, plus another 4?

Just so I have understood. Thanks

 

[Bronco ii Man]

They are 6 bell housing bolt’s, 2 for the starter, and the 2 at the bottom in the separator plate or bell housing plate! Whichever you want to call it lol!

 

[beerhunter]

When you say two at the bottom in the separator plate, do you mean the tiny weeny ones? Thanks

 

[RobbieD]

Yes. 2 for the starter, 6 for the bellhousing:

 

[Bronco ii Man]

You got er’ done! Yes as you found them the 2 little ones on the bottom

 

[Bronco ii Man]

Manual transmission?

 

[beerhunter]

Yeah, manual transmission.

Thanks all. I must have got them all, but I will double check in the morning, as this thing has been kicking my a*** all day

 

[Bronco ii Man]

Just curious do you still have the t-case still attached? Thought it was manual by the separator plate not having inspection plate!

 

[Bronco ii Man]

If so unbolt it and separate the two! Make thing’s a lot easier! I promise!! Can drop mine in an hour and a half on the ground by myself dude! Don’t get me wrong had some practice with it! Not by choice lol!

 

[beerhunter]

Hi, it's now finally off! Now I can start slapping it back together.

A couple of questions if I may. Do I need to prime the new internal-type slave cylinder with fluid first? Or just pump the pedal to get fluid in, before bleeding it?

Also, what oil to refill the gearbox and trans case? And are they refilled separately? Apologies, this is my first 4wd. Thanks.

 

[franklin2]

I would see if the slave will gravity bleed first. In other words, make sure the reservoir is full, and then get underneath and open the bleeder and let it sit there awhile till the fluid makes it's way down and out of the bleeder. That should get you going, and then you can bleed under pressure afterwards.

Here is the procedure from the manual.


The following procedure is recommended for bleeding a hydraulic system installed on the vehicle. The largest portion of the filling is carried out by gravity. It is recommended that the original clutch tube with quick connect be replaced when servicing the hydraulic system because air can be trapped in the quick connect and prevent complete bleeding of the system. The replacement tube does not include a quick connect.

1. Clean the dirt and grease from the dust cap.
2. Remove the cap and diaphragm and fill the reservoir to the top with approved brake fluid C6AZ-19542-AA or BA, (ESA-M6C25-A) or equivalent.

To keep brake fluid from entering the clutch housing, route a suitable rubber tube of appropriate inside diameter from the bleed screw to a container.

1. Loosen the bleed screw, located in the slave cylinder body, next to the inlet connection. Fluid will now begin to move from the master cylinder down the tube to the slave cylinder.

The reservoir must be kept full at all time during the bleeding operation, to ensure no additional air enters the system.

1. Notice the bleed screw outlet. When the slave is full, a steady stream of fluid comes from the slave outlet. Tighten the bleed screw.
2. Depress the clutch pedal to the floor and hold for 1-2 seconds. Release the pedal as rapidly as possible. The pedal must be released completely. Pause for 1-2 seconds. Repeat 10 times.
3. Check the fluid level in the reservoir. The fluid should be level with the step when the diaphragm is removed.
4. Repeat Step 5 and 6 five times. Replace the reservoir diaphragm and cap.
5. Hold the pedal to the floor, crack open the bleed screw to allow any additional air to escape. Close the bleed screw, then release the pedal.
6. Check the fluid in the reservoir. The hydraulic system should now be fully bled and should release the clutch.
7. Check the vehicle by starting, pushing the clutch pedal to the floor and selecting reverse gear. There should be no grating of gears. If there is, and the hydraulic system still contains air, repeat the bleeding procedure from Step 5.