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1985 2.8 Carb Adjustments

Uncle Gump

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Amen @Shran

I was remembering "the good ole days"
 


ford4wd08

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A few pumps when cold is normal... or necessary to reset the choke. Kinda sounds more like an issue with the accelerator pump or something to me? Seem to remember that there were multiple holes you could put the pump rod on, and different lengths of pump push rods? Maybe it's stumbling because the pump isn't delivering fuel to the squirters exactly when it's supposed to?

I don't think I've ever owned a carbureted vehicle that worked perfectly. My old F250 ran so good when it warmed up... but it was a cold blooded bastard if you messed with the gas pedal before it ran for a minute or two. I remember waiting in several cold, dark parking lots because I flooded the stupid thing after being impatient. Your posts are always so nostalgic for me. 😂
You're right about the accelerator pump rod positions. I had thought about moving them.

Drove it home tonight. No issues fired right up faster than normal with one pump. I know the bowl was dry after it was sitting for a few hours.

No acceleration bog either. We will see when the weather gets a little colder in the next few days.
 

19Walt93

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3"
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235/55R16
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If the choke is set up properly you should have to step on the gas about 1/2 to 2/3 of the way to the floor once, release the pedal, and turn the key. After a few seconds on the top step of fast idle you should be able to tap the throttle and kick it down to the second step without it stalling. If you want to take off without letting it warm up for a few seconds you'll need the pull down to be a little tighter, if you let it warm up you can go a little looser.
 

ford4wd08

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If the choke is set up properly you should have to step on the gas about 1/2 to 2/3 of the way to the floor once, release the pedal, and turn the key. After a few seconds on the top step of fast idle you should be able to tap the throttle and kick it down to the second step without it stalling. If you want to take off without letting it warm up for a few seconds you'll need the pull down to be a little tighter, if you let it warm up you can go a little looser.
I think I'm close to that now. I'll have to drive it a few more days and see.

I plan on adjusting the lifters lash this weekend. After that I might try a jet or two, but it is running pretty well. I think it might be a tad too rich. A little more experimenting and I think it will be good to go.
 

ford4wd08

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Well.... I was able to set the lash on the lifters today.

Fairly easy process once you get the valve covers off... The valve covers themselves, suck.

Lash was all over the place. From too tight to too loose. I set them cold all to the correct specs.

I also took the horn off of the carb and looked at the jets. The were 48, so I decided to swap in my 49's from my feedback carb to see what would happen.

Drove it for a minute. Seat of the pants seem to act like it had a little more power pulling a hill... Don't know. Real test will be on the drive to work tomorrow. Stay tuned....
 

franklin2

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Don't expect too much from a stock 2.8. But if you drive it like you stole it, it does ok. Don't be afraid to rev it out, it likes the higher rpms. You might be handicapped with the automatic transmission, I have a 5 speed.
 

ford4wd08

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Don't expect too much from a stock 2.8. But if you drive it like you stole it, it does ok. Don't be afraid to rev it out, it likes the higher rpms. You might be handicapped with the automatic transmission, I have a 5 speed.
The expectation I have is a memory lol. From how it performed back in the early 2000's. I understand it is a 2.8, but it should be able to move this stockish rig ok.

On the drive to work this morning it seemed to do well. Was pulling hills better and the trans seemed to shift a little different.

My biggest complaint is that it won't stay in OD on the smallest incline, but these motors aren't meant to lug, they're meant to rev.

I will say it is doing better this morning. I'm just trying to get it to run as best it can, as I know it was neglected some.

Catching up on all the maintenance items.

Plus, this little 2.8 has taught me more about "old" motors than anything I have ever worked on.
 
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19Walt93

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235/55R16
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If you found some tight valves I might recheck the adjustment, you obviously know you have to keep turning the motor over to make sure they're on the base circle when adjusted, right?
 

ford4wd08

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If you found some tight valves I might recheck the adjustment, you obviously know you have to keep turning the motor over to make sure they're on the base circle when adjusted, right?
Yes, I confirmed they were on the base circle.

I followed a guide about watching intake valves open on one cylinder and made sure the valves were closed on the cylinder I adjusted.

I also made sure I could spin the pushrod and that it had no pressure on it on it during my adjustments.

Someone had been in the valves before me as it was missing one of the special wing washers for the valve cover bolt, so I assume they adjusted it wrong.

When I say too tight, I don't mean by much, but I couldn't insert the correct feeler gage, so I corrected them all where I could fit them in with a slight bit of drag on the gage.
 

19Walt93

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If you don't have time to do it right will you have time to do it over?
Good, sounds like you got it.
 

ford4wd08

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Good, sounds like you got it.
Thanks for your help and advice! It definitely seems to have more umph behind it now. Still a 2.8, but seems "happier" if that makes sense.
 

19Walt93

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3"
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235/55R16
My credo
If you don't have time to do it right will you have time to do it over?
Now you can tweak the advance curve and really wake it up. When I started drag racing my 77 Mustang the distributor was all original, I found that the advance was not all in at 4000 rpms. Once I got all the advance in by 2800-3000, it took 2 tenths off my ET. That doesn't sound like much but 2 tenths is huge and the response at part throttle was a lot better.
 

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