1984 Ranger

['84ranger]

To whoever may be able to help:

I just bought a truck last week that had some carburetor issues. I’ll give the specs, then state my problem.

1984 Ford Ranger
4x4, 4-speed manual
2.8 liter V6
Carb ID = E37E AEA, 1.08

So here’s the situation. The carburetor was pretty messed up. So I pulled it apart and found that one of the venturis in the venturi assembly/cluster was completely missing. There are only 3 out of the 4 there. So, I’m looking for another carburetor, so that I can take the venturi out of it and put it in mine. Does anyone know what other vehicles have a carburetor like this one so that I may look for a carburetor of a junkie that matches mine? (check above for the carburetor identification number)

Also, is the 1.08 that is stamped on the carburetor body identification for the venturi? Does this mean that I could find any Motorcraft carburetor with a 1.08 stamped on it and the venturi would match?

Lastly, are there any other different carburetors that would fit my vehicle, if I cannot find another one that matches mine to take a venturi off of?

Thanks everyone!!

 

[gribly]

Make sure to synchronize the carb after you finish finding and installing parts. Also, it's popular with that motor to duraspark it and put on a holley. All the info is kicking around on this site.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

The venturi size 1.08 is the size of the bore at the narrowest point. The venturi booster is the part in the center of the venturi that the air fuel mix turns into a vapor. You can get the parts out of another feedback carb of the same years I believe 83-85 are the same but not sure for the booster assy. I have trouble when you say all four venturis A pic would help alot but if somthing is missing from the booster my question is did it go into the engine and would run a compression check. If it swallowed the part would be a big concern. You will need to find a carb of the same venturi and year for the correct part but if the compression on any of the cylinders you will need to yank that head and access the damage, hopefully only a valve wedged open. Show us a pic of the missing part.

 

[Original_Ranger84]

The venturi is the "barrel" of the carb and the 2150 feedback carb should only have 2 barrels aka 2 venturis. You may be talking about the jet's I think?

The 1.08 is referring to the size of the opening at the smallest point. A larger 2150 that has like 1.30 or something will have a larger opening to suck more fuel and air in.

But I would also look into a Duraspark conversion (unless you have emissions). But all you need is a simple 4 point GM HEI modual, some wiring knowledge and a non feed back carb and distributor. I would stay away from holley and just get a nonfeedback 2150 motorcraft carb. Easy to find parts for if you have the numbers and I haven't heard many good things about the Holleys.

 

['84ranger]

Thanks for the help everyone. If I can figure out how, I will post a picture soon, to let you know what I'm talking about. Also, I found the part that was missing, and thank the Lord it didn't somehow make its way out of the little chamber that it normally sits within - so no engine damage.

By the way, I'm sure you can tell it already, but all of this stuff is new to me, so pardon my ignorance. I've rebuilt 2 motorcycle carburetor assemblies before (1 had 2 carbs in the assembly [V-twin] and the other had 4 carbs in the assembly [4 cyl. supersport]) and they turned out beautifully, but this truck, although only one carburetor, is a little bit more complicated. haha.

 

['84ranger]

Here is the picture of what I was trying to talk about when I said that one out of the 4 venturis were missing ... but I ended up finding the 4th one in the carburetor body where it should have been.

Do I still need a new venturi assembly/cluster, or is there a way to repair this??

Thanks,
Nathan

 

[kimcrwbr1]

Here is the picture of what I was trying to talk about when I said that one out of the 4 venturis were missing ... but I ended up finding the 4th one in the carburetor body where it should have been.

Do I still need a new venturi assembly/cluster, or is there a way to repair this??

Thanks,
Nathan

You can try pressing it back in after you soak it in carb cleaner it should be a real tite fit. I believe the outer ones mix the air fuel for the idle ports and the center two mix the air fuel for the boosters the round things. I`m pretty sure if you can find a carb at the bone yard you can use the two of them to make one good carb. Pull the jets and all the rubber parts out of the parts and soak them in carb cleaner overnite. Then blast them good with water and again with air. I keep all the parts you pull out on a table in the order you remove them keeping all the gaskets and such then you match the parts up with new ones so you know what to use out of the carb kit. Look close at the idle air needles and they are not grooved turn them in to lightly seated and back out three turns for the initial fire off. I also glued a piece of 180 grit sandpaper to a good flat piece of plywood to surface the base of the carb just be careful not to gouge it work it around slow and even and check it with a good strait edge up to a light.

 

['84ranger]

Thanks for the help. I got a junk yard to send me one. I found it on "car-part.com". It is basically a network between bunches of junk yards across the country. I hadn't heard of it before, until a friend mentioned it. Anyways, that is a great idea to resurface the carb with some sandpaper. I knew that professionally rebuilt carbs being resurfaced, but I just assumed that it was something that I didn’t have the tools to do. But I guess I do!

& this is how I “solved” the venture issue. The piece that came out of the venture cluster is exactly symmetrical – it has holes in it, but they are exactly in the center. Because those parts are pressed in, I could not just press the original end back in, because it would be lose. That is of course because once it’s pressed in, the metal cylinder that came out contracted a little bit (something has to give, ya know!) So the original end would slide in and out freely, but I flipped it around, since it was symmetrical, and LIGHTLY hammered the piece back in to the cluster. It was tricky, because you don’t want to get it started at a bad angle, and I also had to put a piece of cardboard in between the hammer and the piece, so that I had a lot less chance of chipping it, since it wouldn’t be metal-on-metal at that point. Anyways, it appears to be in there pretty solid, so problem solved … hopefully. haha

Anyways, some other stuff wasn’t quite right about the carburetor, so even though I fixed the main issue, I still had to get another one.

So I guess we’ll see how it goes once I get the other one in the mail this week!

 

[kimcrwbr1]

Yea it is allways a gamble buying a carb online that is not already rebuilt. You will find out once you take it apart. Take a can of carb cleaner and spray it in all the orifices you can and let it soak overnite before you take it apart especially around the venturi cluster. Hopefully it hasent been exposed to moisture for very long.