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1984 Ranger 5.0 Clutch Problems. PLEASE HELP


madranger84

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I am building a 5.0 ranger with the np435 transmission. i can not get the clutch to disengage all the way. i have the bell housing and external slave cylinder from a 1985 ford f150 and the stock 84 ranger master cylinder. I've bled the slave cylinder to the point where I have a pretty hard pedal but the pedal still hits the floor before it is fully disengaged. I even tried shaving some of the pedal off where it hits the fire wall to give me an extra bit of push room but the clutch still won't disengage! any help would be great but I need it quickly please and thank you!
 


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Hagan

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You might need a different clutch master cylinder. It might not provide enough flow to the slave. Hope that makes sense.

Just checking rockauto and it showed the Ranger has a 3/4" bore for the clutch master cylinder and 7/8" bore for the f150.
 
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madranger84

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Yes makes sense this was actually a thought when I bought the master cylinder but I couldn't find any threads on if it would work or not so I thought I'd try it... Do you know which master cylinder I could use that would bolt on? Or how I could motify the f150 one to fit?
 

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Honestly I have no idea. I used a newer stock master on mine and it seems ok. I don't have an np435 though.
 

madranger84

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What slave cylinder did you use? And do you remember the what year the master was off of? It bolts right below the brake booster so I can't really mount anything different on there unless it has the same angle as this master. Judging by research I don't think they made any 7/8 bore ranger masters.
 

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I used an '88 Ranger master. It had the right end for the zf5 hydraulic line that was the only reason for the swap. The slave I used is a stock internal slave for a zf5. Seems to work ok.
 

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OK... I have the exact same engine/trans combo you do so I think I can help:

I used the factory Ranger clutch master cylinder and a Land Cruiser slave cylinder first - do NOT do this, it was suggested elsewhere but your clutch pedal will be very stiff.

The fix for me was this slave cylinder:
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Push-Type-Slave-Cylinder,1944.html

You have to build a bracket out of angle iron, very simple, just a 3" piece with 4 holes drilled in it will do. Bolt it onto your bellhousing. You will have to cut the end off the hydraulic line and use a compression fitting from the hardware store to adapt to the Speedway slave cylinder. Bleed your clutch and life should be good.

I'm guessing you're not getting a complete release because the sizes of bore and piston in the setup you have now are not matched to each other very well - it's not a matter of leverage or clutch pedal travel, it's how the fluid moves through the system.
 

madranger84

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Do you have any pictures of your setup that would be great, would there be any other slave cylinders that would work as well that I could just get at a local parts store just in case I need to return it
 

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Do you have any pictures of your setup that would be great, would there be any other slave cylinders that would work as well that I could just get at a local parts store just in case I need to return it
Did you look in his build thread? You are most likely going to have to order a slave per Shrans advice.
 

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I will try to take a picture of my slave cylinder tonight, I don't think there is one in my build thread.

I have no idea if there are other slave cylinder options out there. I have tried the 70's Land Cruiser slave and the one from Speedway, and that's it. The Speedway one works so well that I can't imagine using anything else - with the added benefit of being a "universal" part more or less. It's just the best option out there IMO.
 

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dangerranger83 has an NP435 IIRC, you might bug him too.
 

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I had messaged him and everything he had was the same
 

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Here's my slave cylinder, you can kinda see how the angle iron is bolted onto the bellhousing as well as the compression fitting for the hydraulic hose.

 

madranger84

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Ok that looks pretty simple. Same fork and every
thing
 


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