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1350 T case surgery?

crawlin91

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I am pulling apart a borg warner manual 1350 transfer case to use for the crawl box in my doubler. I got the cases split and the front plate and planetary gears removed.

The cases will pull apart to about an inch but I cant get enough slack in the chain to slip it up over the gears to completely split the front and rear half of the case. Any suggestions?
 


4x4junkie

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IIRC, the rear case half should lift right off (my 1354 did anyway).
The two gears (sprockets) however have to come out together with the chain on them. Is there a burr somewhere maybe that's keeping the cover from coming off? Or maybe the rear output bearing isn't letting go of the shaft.
 

crawlin91

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The cases were quite easy to spread up untill this point. One of the sprockets moves freely the other seems to not want to budge past a certain spot and may just need a little persuasion. I just didnt want to pull to hard on either side of the case and break any internals. Ill check it out when I get home, thanks junkie.:icon_thumby:
 

crawlin91

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Ok, I got the case halves apart, it just took a little creativity and patience and I was able to slip the chain up and over one of the sprockets. I started mocking up the plate to cut the case down but this little guy is in the way(that pin sticking up off the flat machined surface). It doesn't appear to be a part of the casting. Do they pop/twist out easily?

 

scotts90ranger

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grab it with pliers and work it out, shouldn't be too bad
 

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My credo
If you're not making mistakes, you're not learning.
Just a locating dowel. Grab and yank.
 

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Mine was in pretty good (had to use a serious pair of channellocks), but yes, it's just pressed in. Twist & remove.
 

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What I did on mine was left the pin in place, layed my housing on my plate and posioned it where I wanted it, then marked around the pin as much as i could with a marker. Drill a 1/2" hole for the pin. Place housing back on plate and drill and tap two 3/8-16 holes for the two open holes at the other end. Now to locate the other 4 holes that are already threaded I flipped the case over and put a 3/8-16 set screw in each of those holes with just a little bit remaining up. Took a piece of cardboard and cut a hole for my locator pin and other two already drilled and tapped holes. Lay the cardboard on there so your three holes line up, then gently tap around on the cardboard with a hammer so that the set screws make an impression in the cardboard. Remove cardboard and set screws and use cardboard as a template on your back plate. Worked pretty good for me other than I had one hole slightly off cause I let the drill bit walk a hair. Hope this helps ya.
 

crawlin91

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It twists which gives me hope but the locater pin doesn't want to move much as far as coming out of the hole. Threw some penetrating oil on it, clamped on some vice grips and spin the dowel, then tapped the side of the vice grips while clamped with with a rubber mallet, still nothing. And Im guessing that heat (mapp torch) is not a wise option here?

Since there is going to be a hole there anyway if I get it out, I thought about center drilling the locater pin and then using a larger bit to take it down just below the mating surface but Ill put more work into trying to pull it out somehow before I try that.... it's always the small b.s. snags that delay a project.

What I need is a big ass magnet with a handle.
 

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try a large pair of side cutters, grip it and pry it out that way, more leverage. if it's apart anyway, heat the aluminum housing trying to keep the center of the flame away from the steel pin, aluminum expands faster than steel, that should loosen it some to get it out.

if that doesn't work, if you have a large enough tap, tap the pin and stick a bolt in it, give you more to hold on to
 

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Maybe try twisting and yanking on the case with the pin clamped in a bench vise?
 

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Ok, I got the case halves apart, it just took a little creativity and patience and I was able to slip the chain up and over one of the sprockets. I started mocking up the plate to cut the case down but this little guy is in the way(that pin sticking up off the flat machined surface). It doesn't appear to be a part of the casting. Do they pop/twist out easily?
Just one more time (someone already said it)

the chain is NOT supposed to "slip over the sprocket" under any circumstances.


I find it generally easier to remove the FRONT case half off the rest of the t-case assembly

But then again, I've NEVEr seen the need to tale a 13-50 apart.
(13-50 are cheaper to REPLACE than the cost of two of the three shaft seals)

IF I wewre looking to make a doubler I'd use a electric shift 13-54
(common as dirt and not much more expensive at most rational junkyards)



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Hahnsb2

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IF I wewre looking to make a doubler I'd use a electric shift 13-54
(common as dirt and not much more expensive at most rational junkyards)



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And how do you plan on shifting it?
 

crawlin91

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tried the vice trick but it kept on slipping, grabbed the cut off wheel ground it down close to the mating surface with a grinder and then a dremel then just tapped it back into the hole with a hammer and a punch. It now sits just below the machined surface.
 
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crawlin91

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