1210 driveshaft to 1310 yoke... possible?

[Rangerang]

On my '88 Ranger I replaced the 7.5 inch rear axle with an 8.8 inch. The original had the SMALL (3.5 inch) bolt circle diameter and the new has the LARGE (4.25 inch) bolt circle diameter. The Spicer 2-2-1379 yoke is the ideal fit for the 8.8" but it's for 1310 series U-joint. The original yoke (C2-2-501 now 2-2-1049) used a series 1210 U-joint, as does the driveshaft. After hours of searching I haven't found a 1210 to 1310 conversion U-joint so I'm stuck. Bottom line, I need to connect a 1210 driveshaft to a LARGE (4.25") yoke. It could be a LARGE yoke that uses a 1210 U-joint, a 1210 to 1310 conversion U-joint, a different axle, or fabricating something on the existing axle. The truck is an '88 Ranger, extended cab, long bed. The axle is from a '91 unknown Ranger. Any ideas?

 

[don4331]

1st question - did you make the Supercab long box yourself/did previous owner? Ford never manufactured a SuperCab long box, they are all home built. Side question: Is your truck's drive shaft a 1 or 2 piece model?

If it is a SuperCab short box: the easy answer is, get a newer driveshaft from a wrecker. If your's is 2 piece, it is good opportunity to get rid of the center bearing and go to a one piece shaft. All SuperCab short boxes have same wheelbase from 1st to last, and transmissions/transfer case are all same overall length, so driveshaft are interchangeable so long as you stick to same model ie. a 4WD one in your case.

I know there are large/small pattern 7.5" rear axle pinion adapters.

If you have a custom truck, i.e. SuperCab long box, then you might need to make an adapter. The Toyota boys use 6061-T6 aluminum to extend driveshafts; you just need to know someone with a lathe and mill (technically you could do it on a drill press if you are careful enough).

 

[bobbywalter]

I just switch yokes. Easy.

 

[bobbywalter]

Read as put doner slip on 88 1210 shaft inverted.

1210 at hanger..1330 at axle. Untill you can upgrade it all later.

 

[Shran]

My solution has been to drill and tap new holes in your new axle's flange that match your old driveshaft. The ultimate solution is to use a driveshaft from a newer truck so that you gain 1310 u-joints throughout the whole shaft but if you go that route, make sure your t-case flange bolts up to your new shaft (I'm assuming this is a 4x4 truck.) If not you'll need the t-case flange as well.

 

[bobbywalter]

Yes....swapping yokes on the axle is not ideal, crush sleeve can be an issue.

T case don't matter....just unbolt and swap flange... ...though a fresh seal is prudent.

Some flanges have both patterns stock.

 

[Rangerang]

My bad, it's not a long bed, it's 72"
To be specific it's a '88 Ranger, Super Cab, 4x4, MT, 125" WB, bone stock except for the new axle.
It uses a 2 piece shaft with the carrier. I'm intrigued by your suggestion, I've never heard this.
Is mating to the transfer case the same for all or do I need to watch for that?

Looks like I'd need to remove the carrier & its support so this would be a one-way deal; no room for error.
I've always wondered why they ever used a two piece?

My other option is to drill & tap the pinion flange with the small bolt pattern using the small flange yoke as a guide. The new holes would fit exactly between the existing holes & a little inward, plenty of room.
But that's dicey with a hand drill under the truck and I like the idea of a one piece shaft. I've got some research to do.

Thanks for your reply.

 

[Rangerang]

Read as put doner slip on 88 1210 shaft inverted.

1210 at hanger..1330 at axle. Untill you can upgrade it all later.

That's what I'm searching for now (donor) but it looks like all newer shafts don't match '88 length. All I want is the splined end piece.

 

[bobbywalter]

Yes. Splined end piece. If it was on the donors shaft just use that. There are basically 3 different lengths ....

It's not ideal but will get you by


Have had to do it many times. Front yoke off of 150 are usually still in the yards.

Some flanges are 1310...some 1330.

 

[bobbywalter]

Make sure you stay in phase.

 

[Rangerang]

Make sure you stay in phase.

As I understand, the U-joints must be 90 degrees from each other?

 

[bobbywalter]

Put the new yoke on in the same orientation.

So it matches the other end.

Hopefully it's not keyed offsets.

 

[Rangerang]

Ok, I measured the truck. Couldn't convince my wife to crawl under and hold the tape end to the diff flange face so used a tiny C-clamp.

(Missing yoke is 1.625" face to cap center. Had to correct for that)

Single piece axle: 62-1/4" flange to flange, 59" cap-cap (subtract 3.25"for 2 yokes).
Just to verify: 60-1/2" diff flange face to T-case cap center, gives 1.75" for missing yoke or 3.5" for two, close enough.

So a single axle should be 59" cap to cap. Does this sound about right?
I'll do a search on various later Rangers that match mine and see what I can find.

My T-case flange is SMALL so I'll replace that. Another post says 4x4 Explorers may be a source.

 

[Rangerang]

Put the new yoke on in the same orientation.

So it matches the other end.

Hopefully it's not keyed offsets.

The same orientation to what?
The entire rear shaft has been removed & separated so any original orientation is lost. Nothing is keyed.

 

[bobbywalter]

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