10” backing plate 2002 ford ranger help!

[MelissaH]

Hi! I have a 2002 Ford Ranger and the 10” rear backing plate on the left side was completely warped. I have been having the worst time trying to find a replacement 10” backing plate when I ordered from oriellys I got in some 9” backing plates. What would it take to convert from 10” backing plates to 9” backing plates. I already ordered the 9” drums and backingplate before I realized I had a 10”.

 

[RegularGuy]

I've never needed to do the conversion from 9 to 10 but it should just be doing THIS in reverse. That being said, for the cost and headache (I'm no expert but I'd guess it might actually cost more to do the conversion) you're probably better off purchasing the correct parts and attempting to either return or sell the 9" ones. 10" drums can be acquired on rock auto for about half the price as O'Reilly's, although you'd be stuck with the shipping cost, otherwise if you're needing something even cheaper (or sooner) I've always been able to find drum brakes and backing plates at my local wrecking yard. The one near me sells them for $2 and $5 respectively

 

[Bgunner]

To convert you will need to replace the brake shoes, hardware, parking brake activating bars, backing plates, drums and possible even the adjuster.

Not worth the hastle and loss of stopping power to convert to smaller drum brakes. Just return the parts you got and order the correct ones. This is the best and cheapest option in your situation.

Worst case scenario is oriellys will charge a restocking fee but many times unless they were a special order this is not the case.

 

[pjtoledo]

judging by the photo you may have more problems than just a backing plate.
what city are you in/near? there may be someone willing to give up a used part or help if they are close.

this is from the Tasca Ford parts site.

https://www.tascaparts.com/auto-parts/2002/ford/ranger/xlt-trim/4-0l-v6-gas-engine/brakes-cat/rear-brakes-scat

 

[pjtoledo]

pick the correct part # then search the internet.
for 2002 one of the plates is listed as obsolete, there may be a superseded by part # .
some other years may have the same part. I found plates for a 2007 but am not sure if they are 100% compatable.
maybe someone else can verify if they are compatable.

 

[MelissaH]

To convert you will need to replace the brake shoes, hardware, parking brake activating bars, backing plates, drums and possible even the adjuster.

Not worth the hastle and loss of stopping power to convert to smaller drum brakes. Just return the parts you got and order the correct ones. This is the best and cheapest option in your situation.

Worst case scenario is oriellys will charge a restocking fee but many times unless they were a special order this is not the case.

I have been trying to find the correct parts I called ford themselves and they told me that since most 2002 rangers opted for 9” they no longer have the parts. That was what the Anchorage AK ford told me unfortunately. Shipping where I am is pretty high since the only way in here is by boat/plane so I’ve been keeping my eyes open for the correct parts but haven’t had luck yet.

 

[MelissaH]

pick the correct part # then search the internet.
for 2002 one of the plates is listed as obsolete, there may be a superseded by part # .
some other years may have the same part. I found plates for a 2007 but am not sure if they are 100% compatable.
maybe someone else can verify if they are compatable.

That’s what I was being told that the part is no longer. I’ve been trying junk yards and having a hard time finding the 10” here in AK the part number on the original plate is 3211892-R it’s the rear right side.

 

[MelissaH]

judging by the photo you may have more problems than just a backing plate.
what city are you in/near? there may be someone willing to give up a used part or help if they are close.

this is from the Tasca Ford parts site.

https://www.tascaparts.com/auto-parts/2002/ford/ranger/xlt-trim/4-0l-v6-gas-engine/brakes-cat/rear-brakes-scat

thank you for that I’ll try looking there after this. I’m in Alaska on the Kenai Peninsula I’ve tried just two of the junk yards I know of here in AK with no luck, I’ll have to google some more I suppose. The guy I bought it from was launched a boat or pulled a boat from the water with the parking break on. It still would stop but the breaks were very weak.

 

[MelissaH]

To convert you will need to replace the brake shoes, hardware, parking brake activating bars, backing plates, drums and possible even the adjuster.

Not worth the hastle and loss of stopping power to convert to smaller drum brakes. Just return the parts you got and order the correct ones. This is the best and cheapest option in your situation.

Worst case scenario is oriellys will charge a restocking fee but many times unless they were a special order this is not the case.

thanks I figured that it would be a pain. Oriellys said they’d take back the backing plate, drums and Shoes that I ordered for the 9” with a restock fee for the opened box plates. Unfortunately I’m just having a hell of a time finding 10” for the 2002 ranger. I may just have to suck it up and buy a whole axle the shipping to the remote area I am at is pretty high though.

 

[Ramcharger90]

Sourcing those plates is getting difficult my 8.8 from the exploder for example $300 for both plates online.

 

[RegularGuy]

I've found the driver's side, part number F57Z-2212-A Link. Thus far, I've been unable to find a replacement passengers side, but the part number for that is F57Z-2211-A

Its difficult to say off of pictures alone but it would appear as though the difference between a left and right is where the holes are drilled, if this assessment holds true, you could potentially purchase two driver's side plates and drill the appropriate holes (painting the newly exposed metal). In addition, if you still have the rusty ones, you could compare them now before making any financial commitments

 

[Bgunner]

I've found the driver's side, part number F57Z-2212-A Link. Thus far, I've been unable to find a replacement passengers side, but the part number for that is F57Z-2211-A

Its difficult to say off of pictures alone but it would appear as though the difference between a left and right is where the holes are drilled, if this assessment holds true, you could potentially purchase two driver's side plates and drill the appropriate holes (painting the newly exposed metal). In addition, if you still have the rusty ones, you could compare them now before making any financial commitments

View attachment 40759

This is not a Viable option due to the parking brake cable hole through the backing plate.

EDIT: The link you provided is to the driver side (left) not the passenger side. (Right)


@MelissaH While normally more expensive, Have you tried a Ford dealership to acquire them or just the right side that is the the hardest to find?

Purchasing a different axle to install over a backing plate being bad seem like a nuclear option. Personally, while not the best option, I would start searching junk yards for it first. The reason I am saying this is while an axle is easy to swap out, U- bolt replacement and removal, installation of the drive shaft, Brake lines and parking brake cable, the bearing and gear condition in them is unknown adding a possibility of needing more work to be done later. Also purchasing a whole axle for just backing plates puts it also in the mini-nuke category unless the cost of new backing plates are much higher than the cost of the axle. Example: if you snag an axle for say $50-$75 then it is worth it for grabbing the whole axle for parts only as long as the gear ratio is the same as what you have now.

Edit: Ford part # for Right/passenger side 10" backing plate is: F57Z-2211-A. Labeled as discontinued by ford dealerships but I hope having the proper part number helps you find it easier. Having this number will help even O'Rielly's get you the proper size backing plate even if you must get it from the manufacturer Dorman.

 

[RegularGuy]

This is not a Viable option due to the parking brake cable hole through the backing plate.

Why specifically do you believe this to not be a viable option?
As I had suggested you'd need to drill that hole and likely others, but unless I'm overlooking something here, you should be able to just cap the extras to keep the water out

In the absence of anything other driver's side backing plates, if possible, this would likely be the least expensive option

 

[Bgunner]

Why specifically do you believe this to not be a viable option?

In the absence of anything other driver's side backing plates, if possible, this would likely be the least expensive option

Specifically rust, Drilling will cause bare metal to be exposed, now add the cost of a good high temp paint to try to reseal the metal and hope that it wont ware off any time soon. If you weld a cover over the hole this will weaken the baking plate and also add cost and still need paint but now add welding materials. A rubber plug I have seen used but over a short amount of time they deteriorate and will also leak allowing more moisture to enter. I can go on but I think I mentioned enough for now.

While using an aftermarket backing plate you may able to keep the cost down, sort of if you can find them, but add more possible failure points to the job if modification is necessary. But I spent over an hour searching and trying to cross numbers to find a set or at least the passenger backing plate for the 10 inch drums and came up with nothing, other than you linked to a 9 inch rear backing plate and Dorman only seems to offer the 9" part# 924-656 replacements. I have found no 10 inch rear backing plates anywhere within an hour long search... more time than I usually spend on most threads for no pay out for me.

The best I could find is the actual part number for the 10" backing plates but this does no good if I can not find a manufacturer that makes them. And this is where the OP has had issues. The junk yard is still the best option unless you have your heart set on brand new plates. still cheaper than aftermarket.

I am not saying it can not be done but adding in the risk of wrong size hole being drilled, not in the proper spot, added rust issues on a new part all add up to my opinion of it not being a viable option. Nothing burns me more than spending money on a new part and having to modify it to work properly. With mark ups on cost I shouldn't have to modify it unless I am converting over to something other than stock set up.

I have yet to find a driver side backing plate for the 10" drum also which makes even modifying one not a viable option either.

 

[pjtoledo]

now that it is mentioned, the only difference between a left and right is the hole for the Ebrake cable.
both parts are stamped identically, the each have both L & R bosses, only difference is 1 is drilled left, other is drilled right.
correct???

also for 2007 both plates are still listed. are 2002 & 2007 compatible?
EDIT,,,left only, right is discontinued