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1 step forward 2 steps back. It feels like anyways.


Northidahotrailblazer

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I'm moving along, I don't 100% like how my OTK steering came out. I order some more weld in bungs and Flip it back down to UTK. It would make my drag link to tie rod bar a lot more inline, and i would be able to move my steering stops back to more normal.

My flat bed is pretty much done, got it back from powder coating and got most of my stuff on it, just a few things to do still.
 

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That short bed looks great.
 

dvdswan

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That is a true short bed. Excellent departure angle. (y)
 

Shran

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Could you move your lower track bar mount up and straighten the track bar out to match the drag link?

It would sure be a bummer to have to redo your steering, it looks great. I have an OTK setup like you do and I am still dragging the tie rod over rocks and stuff. It would be way worse under.
 

Shran

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We obviously have different axles but this is what I did. Piece of 2" 1/4 wall square tube and a 3/4 bolt.



I redid the track bar itself later to make it straight but this gives you an idea how it ended up:
 

Northidahotrailblazer

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Thanks guys! Yup bed is 4ft long by 6 ft wide. Haha it’s pretty short! I had to get creative since this cab is on a b2 frame. Fuel cell is in the tool box in the back.

Shran I’m just torn, I have a d44 setup for Jeep long arms and everything, it would bolt right in. I was in a RBV. But it’s missing brakes, lock outs, axle shafts and it needs regeared. I really just don’t want to put any more money into this D30. I can’t move the track bar mount easily because it’s a CAD axle so it has that stupid axle shaft disconnect unless I cut the coil mount off and changed everything around. But I keep going back, why put money into this D30. It would be pretty simple to go UTK for now, I have tapered inserts for the TREs. Id just have to get another TRE. If I leave it OTK steering just sucks, it’s the coil on the drivers side the tie rod bar hits and what was an amazing turning radius is now worse than my 4 door long box super duty. Lol
 

Shran

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Yeah I hear ya. Thought maybe you could leave what's there and just weld in a higher track bar mount or build an additional mount off to the side or something relatively simple.

With the cost of all that stuff it is almost worth just going big right off the bat and using super duty axles. I am using a D44 in my next build but ONLY because it already has the gears I want in it.
 

Northidahotrailblazer

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Location
Northern Idaho
Vehicle Year
1992
Make / Model
Ford Ranger
Engine Type
4.0 V6
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
Solid Axle Swap 4x4
Total Lift
8 inches
Tire Size
37"
Yeah I hear ya. Thought maybe you could leave what's there and just weld in a higher track bar mount or build an additional mount off to the side or something relatively simple.

With the cost of all that stuff it is almost worth just going big right off the bat and using super duty axles. I am using a D44 in my next build but ONLY because it already has the gears I want in it.
Yeah, I'm going to work on my rock sliders, get my few things left for the flat bed finished. Then go back to it, I want to pull off the front sway bar from one of the donor rigs and get a sway bar on it again and see how that works. Ive just got some trial and error and see what works and doesn't. I know I'm confusing but I really just want a fun DD rig. I miss driving this thing, and I really don't want to do any hard core or any wheeling besides some light overlanding.

So all I want is to make it safe to go down the highway and build my D44 and spare 8.8 with lockers and 513 gears and just swap it in next winter. But I've got a lot of work to do to it next winter. I've got a better shape cab and some other things and go from there.
 

Northidahotrailblazer

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 21, 2012
Messages
402
Reaction score
457
Points
63
Location
Northern Idaho
Vehicle Year
1992
Make / Model
Ford Ranger
Engine Type
4.0 V6
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
Solid Axle Swap 4x4
Total Lift
8 inches
Tire Size
37"
Yeah I hear ya. Thought maybe you could leave what's there and just weld in a higher track bar mount or build an additional mount off to the side or something relatively simple.

With the cost of all that stuff it is almost worth just going big right off the bat and using super duty axles. I am using a D44 in my next build but ONLY because it already has the gears I want in it.
Hey I flipped my steering down to UTK. The bump steer almost went way but i had bad death wobble at 45 mph. I found my lower track bar mount was loose and egged out the mounting hole. Drilled that out to 1/2 and got it tightened up. but still had bad death wobble. Swapped tires around, no change. put brand new tires with my newer rims on it. I got rid of the 5-4.5 to 5 on 5.0 adapters and those wheels and my death wobble went away and it drive so much nicer. I mean its night and day difference. I know my track bar isn't perfect but I'm going to see how it drives with the sway bar and the steering stabilizer hooked up. and see how it drives then.
 

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