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1-piece driveshaft CLUNK: which end of boot to UNclamp??


fixizin

FoMoCo is forcing me to buy a 'yota
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... I'm thinking the FRONT end, since the driveshaft is the female side, and slips over the transfer case stub, so more likely to get grease into the actual splines from the front...?

ALSO, do I actually have to drop the driveshaft to make sure the uber-grease gets into the splines, or will a NEEDLE ATTACHMENT on my grease gun do the j-o-b?

(Seems the Driveshaft threads end up here in 'Axles', not 'Transmissions'...)

Time to finally address the infamous 1-piece driveshaft "clunk".

My stealership has a little $7.95 kit specifically for this (haven't seen it--described over phone), which includes the XG-8 grease, and a replacement clamp for the bellows boot. This raises (at least) 3 Questions: (for a noob like me)

1) Which of the two OEM boot clamps gets cut, front or rear?
2) Any tricks to cutting that clamp without damaging das boot?
3) Is there an aftermarket version of this clamp that does NOT require a special crimping tool? And what is it called? (Looks like most CV Joint boots...)

Thanks in advance! Looking forward to clunk-FREE driving!
 
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adsm08

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First off, FU. There is no T in "dealership".

Second, I have helpful input that I am not going to give because you seem to insist on calling me and my colleagues thieves simply because we choose to work at the top of out field rather than the bottom.

Third, again, FU.
 

fixizin

FoMoCo is forcing me to buy a 'yota
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XL Spurt
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3.0 V6
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3.0 (Flex)
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Manual
2WD / 4WD
4WD
My credo
A properly suspensioned Ranger can be safely airborne for up to 4 seconds at a time! =:O
Dude, chill. My own brother is a Master Technician at a uber-major dealership.

The "T" refers only to the Sales slicksters, F&I, and sometimes Parts Dept., NOT to the guys turning wrenches, and scoping analyzers... I guess you could say it's all part of the same "ecosystem", but still, chill.

Going forward, I will avoid using it, because I am NOT here to cause offense... OTOH, I've been here a long while, and I think this might well be the very forum where I first saw the term in WIDESPREAD use, eh wot? ;) :beer:
 

fixizin

FoMoCo is forcing me to buy a 'yota
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3.0 (Flex)
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2WD / 4WD
4WD
My credo
A properly suspensioned Ranger can be safely airborne for up to 4 seconds at a time! =:O

adsm08

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I hate the bastards in sales as much as anyone, but I generally see that term leveled at the parts and service departments just as much or more than the sales guys. When I see it used, to me its the same as telling someone in food service that they are a bad person because they work at some fancy-pants five-star restaurant instead of McDonalds.

Anyway, don't cut the clamp. Get a flat blade screwdriver and work it into the crimp until you have it halfway through and then twist. It will undo the crimp.

As for re-doing it, those special pliers are the way to go. I have the only set in my shop and they get borrowed a lot.
 

fixizin

FoMoCo is forcing me to buy a 'yota
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Make / Model
XL Spurt
Engine Type
3.0 V6
Engine Size
3.0 (Flex)
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
4WD
My credo
A properly suspensioned Ranger can be safely airborne for up to 4 seconds at a time! =:O
I hate the bastards in sales as much as anyone, but I generally see that term leveled at the parts and service departments just as much or more than the sales guys. When I see it used, to me its the same as telling someone in food service that they are a bad person because they work at some fancy-pants five-star restaurant instead of McDonalds.
Nah bra, naught but respect for the techs :pray: , and SOME of the service writers, and the been-around-the-block Parts guys who actually know their shyt--and admit when they don't.

... but the clean-hands gang in da showroom (and Finance/Loans), well, be honest... would you send your Mom in there, alone, without throwing your name around? (Also note: you're in a decent area of PA, and I'm in the slimy part of FL...)

Anyway, don't cut the clamp. Get a flat blade screwdriver and work it into the crimp until you have it halfway through and then twist. It will undo the crimp.
Ahhh... so, if I do it right, the screwdriver blade is NOT touching/bearing on the boot, right?... although being 17 years old, probably be prudent to replace das boot... seeing as I gots ta drop both ends of the driveshaft anyhow... are these basically the same clamps used on CV joint boots??

Between fixing this and the shifter bushings, gonna be like driving a NEW truck! :icon_bounceblue:
 
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