#1 cylinder dead.

[88workcar]

I finished porting my heads and intake and put the motor together. Initial start up was hard and truck shakes from apparent dead cylinders. I did find two different injector clips that didn't go on correctly and 5 of them that would not stay down due to broken clips. I fixed all of that (tyrap over injector clip) and it made a big improvement. I now only have #1 cylinder that is not running. I have verified voltage to the injector. I can feel the injector pulse while engine is running. I also verified the valves are opening and closing. I removed the injector and bench tested it. (good) They are all new FORD injectors.

I removed the plug and set it on the intake and looked for spark. It is yellow, doesn't look healthy. So I swapped the plug wire with another, same results. I tried a fresh plug, same results. I put that all back as it goes and pulled #2. This one has a better "looking" spark to it. My plugs and wires are 6mos old, the coil pk is an auto parts place "BLUE" pk, an upgrade from el-cheapO. It is 2 months old. Can it be that the coil is too weak to work correctly? I did also swap all of the wires from one side of the coil to the other and the problem remains as is. And last, I have a strong unburn gas smell at each startup. Thanks for any assistance.

 

[88workcar]

Temp on all exhaust average 260, #1 is 155

 

[Uncle Gump]

I would run a compression test... it is the only way to ensure the engine is healthy.

 

[88workcar]

Planned on doing that also this evening. I did do a good inspection on the piston tops while down and nothing seemed sketchy. I did also pull the oil dipstick while running to see if I had excessive pressure there (burnt piston)

 

[88workcar]

Ran compression test, 120. Pulled valve cover and made sure we have lifter movement. Swapped coil packs and all good now. Changed the oil and drove it to work this morning. After it got well warmed up, it bucks while holding speed. Tracked that down to a PDFE sensor. I left it on the intake during bead blasting and water washing lol. Dumb move. Got one on the way.

Is there a way to remove that sensor and the exhaust back into the intake?

 

[RonD]

120 psi is pretty low for a 3.0l, what did other cylinders test at?
Expected is 160psi

No, you want to keep the EGR system assuming you want to run regular gas, 87 octane
3.0l will ping/knock without it
Its a DPFE sensor, just FYI

 

[88workcar]

I will check again with a warm engine. I only checked the one that was down. It seemed low to me too. This morning until it got warmed up it "Felt" better than it ever has.

 

[RonD]

Engine doesn't need to be warm, but you should test at least 3 cylinders to get an average for the gauge you are using, all 6 would of course be better

 

[88workcar]

I have a DPFE sensor on the way. I cleaned the one on the truck and reinstalled it. I did get a code for it yesterday morning. The truck still has a bog after getting up to temp. but not codes. And the bog seems to come and go. Does this seem like the DPFE or should I keep looking for other things? When cold, runs like a beast lol

 

[Uncle Gump]

I would probably wait until you get the known issue fixed before looking at other things.