05 Ranger TDI conversion

[Evguy1]

Fusion, Yum.

Here are the two Digital Dakota box's.
They fit snugly under the console.
One to change the output shaft signal so the ECU shifts the tranny where I want and the other is to change the ECU speedo signal back to the correct speed.

 

[RonD]

Be curious to learn MPG after a few tanks, and also general power on the road, i.e. getting up to 65mph and passing power.

If this was a manual trans conversion I think the Ford computer could be eliminated altogether, so no CKP sensor or VSS for computer needed.
I think the GEM or ABS module, depending on year, can be used to adjust VSS signals without computer, you can input tire size and axle ratios to calibrate speedo.

Not sure if later model 4WD modules needed the computer as an interface or just the VSS signals from transfer case?

 

[Evguy1]

I had dumped about 10 gallons of diesel into it when we first got it running and that brought it up to about 1/2 tank on the gauge.
It has not moved during all my testing so today I thought I had better fill it up.
Went to the gas station and started to fill.
Only got 1 liter in before it gurgled out the spout.
I used the stock filler and vent tube which turns out to be way to small for diesel as diesel foams so much easier.
Tomorrow I will hopefully get a full size truck filler neck and tube in as well as a second vent line.
I don't think power is a problem, lots of pickup and GO!

 

[Evguy1]

The fuel gauge is reading backwards.
Tested the sender (removed from the tank) and got the following:
E = 14 ohms
F = 183 ohms

Reinstalled sender and looked at the ECU with software.
It sees .26V at E and 2.88V at F.

I ran a separate ground wire directly to the sender, not the sender jack with no change.

I'm starting to wonder if the cluster has an issue considering all the trouble I had getting a temp sender to work.

 

[RonD]

1989 and up Ford Fuel senders use (E)16-158(F) Ohms

So sender numbers are correct.

I think Ford added self test to instrument clusters in 2002
Key off
press Trip odometer button in and hold it in
Turn key on, i think RUN is fine, could be ACCES, but try RUN first
Watch odometer display, when you see TEST release tip reset button

Gauges should all sweep full travel
Press Trip button again for next test, and further tests

If there is a problem it will display trouble codes

I will try to located a trouble code for this unless someone else has one

Found this posted at Ford Focus site which was said to be taken from a Brazilian site, lol, thanks to brunomedina:

Self-Diagnostic Mode - Instrument Cluster

1. To enter the instrument cluster self-diagnostic mode simultaneously depress and hold the tripmeter reset button then turn the ignition switch to position II or III.
2. Release the tripmeter reset button when TEST is displayed on the LCD. This will take between 5 and 8 seconds.
3. The instrument cluster will enter the gauge sweep test.
4. To navigate to the following tests while in self-diagnostic mode depress the RESET button to move to the next test.
5. The self-test is deactivated when the ignition is turned to the OFF position.

#.Test
#.Syntax Displayed
#.Gauge/Indicator/Display Tested
#.Description

#.1..Gauge sweep.
#.GAGE.
#.Tachometer, speedometer, temperature and fuel.
#.All gauges go through a full up and down pointer sweep smoothness check, which takes approximately 5 seconds.

#.2..Fill in all LCD.
#.8888.
#.LCD display built into Speedometer.
#.Fills in LCD display therefore seeing if display functioning correctly.

#.3..Indicator bulbs.
#.BULB.
#.Instrument cluster illuminates indicator and warning indicators.
#.Illuminates all the warning indicators that are controlled by the instrument cluster.

#.4..ROM level.
#.rXXX.
#.Instrument cluster read only memory (ROM).
#.Displays the instrument cluster ROM revision level.

#.5..NVM level.
#.EXXX.
#.Instrument cluster non volatile memory (NVM).
#.Displays the instrument cluster NVM revision.

#.6..DTC.
#.XXXX or NONE.
#.Diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs).
#.To list the DTCs stored, press the RESET button.
..REFER to the instrument cluster diagnostic trouble code (DTC) index below.
..The DTC codes will scroll through if there is more than one.

#.7..Road speed mph.
#.XXX.X.
#.Speedometer.
#.Displays the speed signal input in mph.

#.8..Road speed Km/h.
#.XXX.X.
#.Speedometer.
#Displays the speed signal input in Km/h.

#.9..Engine speed.
#.XXXX.
#.Tachometer.
#.Displays the tachometer input signal (RPM).

#.10..Fuel volume.
#.FXXX.
#.Fuel sender system.
#.Displays the fuel volume signal input.

#.11..Coolant Temp.
#.XXXC
#.Engine coolant temperature.
#.Displays the engine coolant temperature signal input.

#.12..Battery Voltage.
#.bXXX.
#.Battery Voltage (t).
#.Displays battery voltage input.

#.13..ABS fail.
#.Ab-[H/L].
#.ABS system.
#.Displays ABS raw cluster input. (H = open-circuit, L = ground).

#.14..Electronic Brake Distribution Failure (EBD).
#.Eb-[H/L].
#.EBD system.
#.Displays EBD raw cluster input. (H = open-circuit, L = ground).

#.15..Illumination.
#.IL-[H/L].
#.Cluster and instrument panel illumination.
#.Displays instrument cluster and instrument panel illumination. (H = ON, L = OFF).

#.16..Crank Sense.
#.Cr-[H/L].
#.Cluster and instrument panel crank sense.
#.Displays Cluster and instrument panel Crank sense. (H = Ignition, L = Ground or over-charging).
#.(Crank sense it the Pos I (Accessory) supply to the cluster. If this is missing then the cluster will remain dead for about 20 seconds after key on. Then it will function normally. This can happen when someone fits a radio and blows the accessory fuse).

Note:
Additional tests are available after number #.16 but are not useful for diagnostics.

Note:
Later vehicles had a "cost reduced" cluster that had a different Engineering Test Mode layout. These came in about 03-53 reg, and can be distinguished by only the symbol lighting up in the tell tale rather than the whole lot. (LEDs rather than bulbs).
These clusters used stepper motors for the gauges rather than the air cored ones and did not have a Gauge Sweep test?

Self ..........DTC.......... Description
Diagnostic
Mode
Displayed
DTC

9202 ..........B1202.......... Fuel pump module circuit open
9204 ..........B1204.......... Fuel pump module short to ground
9342 ..........B1342.......... Instrument Cluster ECU is defective
9317 ..........B1317.......... Battery voltage high (greater than 16V)
9318 ..........B1318.......... Battery voltage low (less than 10V)
9359 ..........B1359.......... Ignition Run/ACC circuit failure
A143 ..........B2143.......... NVM memory failure
A477 ..........B2477.......... Module configuration failure
D041 ..........U1041.......... Invalid data for vehicle speed
D027 ..........U1027.......... Invalid data for engine RPM
D073 ..........U1073.......... Invalid data for engine coolant
D262 ..........U1262.......... Missing speed, tacho, engine temp, or dometer count
D123 ..........U1123.......... Invalid data for odometer

 

[Evguy1]

It does the full sweep test and did come up with one code but by the time I got home I had forgotten it.
The gauge does track the sender quite close, just backwards.
As you move the sender from empty to full the gauge slowly moves from full to empty.
One of my tech's suggested just changing the F&E on the gauge face with a magic marker.

 

[bobbywalter]

is the slosh module backwards?


maybe you inverted the wires going to it.

the later systems are harder to piggyback the pcm for trans controls. but i never tried it with the little transmissions....just the v8 units. and it always had some shifting shortfalls. usually livable though. the eec4 stuff is not so good to begin with so its not too bad.

 

[Evguy1]

Not sure where that module is so I probably didn't mess with it.
I found one YouTube clip on bypassing it but it was located right on the back of the cluster and I have nothing on the back of my cluster.
I did ohm the wire right at the cluster jack and it matches what the sender is putting out.
I have worked as a mechanic (marine and auto) for the last 38 years and up till these new cars you could always count on a full scale fuel gauge just by grounding the sender wire, this one goes to empty.

 

[RonD]

On the older Ford gauges, pre-'89 the Ohms were reversed, (E)73-10(F) Ohms

So on the 2005 gauge if you ground(0 ohms) the sender the gauge would go to empty(14 ohms)
On older model it would go to Full(10 ohms)

Do you read 5volts on the gauge to sender wire?

 

[Evguy1]

So, working by myself at night is maybe not a good thing.
I have the reading backwards.
F=16
E= 158
This tank and pump module came from a 2012 truck that we had converted to an EV.
Turns out the sender is wired the opposite way on that year.

At least I know the problem now.

Here is a video of the truck.
https://youtu.be/fw77vU7-b98


a

 

[RonD]

Yes, that would explain it.

Thanks for the video, heard a little tire squeal on take off

 

[bobbywalter]

the last thing i would use if at all avoidable is a fram filter that is orange.


at least on shit i wanted to protect.

 

[Alberta 7.3]

Very cool build. After seeing this and the build Greengeeker did, a TDI swap will be in my future.

How did you terminate the Ranger PCM inputs for things like O2 sensors to prevent setting codes and turning on the check engine light?

I see you're out on the island, I might have to stop by you're shop when I head out there to see my sister.

 

[Evguy1]

I have been doing EV conversions for the last 25 years.
Part of every conversion is fooling the sensors you need and forgetting the rest.
Since the Ranger ECU is no longer controlling the engine its not a problem if it throws codes.
Just unplug the Check engine light.
Systems like air bags and ABS have their own warning lights so it should not be a safety issue.
The check engine light is the only light that I disconnected on the Ranger.
The newer the vehicle the harder it gets to fool the ECM so it still provides basic functions.
My 08 Dakota/Cummins swap was a real challenge in that department as was a brand new 2012 Ranger 4X4 that we converted to an EV.
Your always welcome for a visit.

 

[Evguy1]

Solved the slow fill problem.
I had just been using a 3/8 vent line off the back of the tank (blue).



I have now added a 1/2 line and increased the fill tube size from about 3/4 (stock) to about 1 1/2".
Fills quite well now.

z