03 Supercab - Camper Build?

[dustyrangers]

Intake manifold off now cleaning around it. Haven’t seen inside too many with 200k miles. What do you think? Valve covers next after I drain the oil.

 

[Blmpkn]

Is that lettuce from a big Mac?

 

[dustyrangers]

Is that lettuce from a big Mac?

It could be given some of the things I found in the cab and you never know how old it is with McDs

 

[09fx4guy]

I think that the back wall of the cab is structural, so I don't know how much of it you would be able to cut away without compromising the truck. If it were me, I would try to attack any of that surface rust on the frame. While it certainly is not bad, doing it while the bed is off would make it substantially easier.

I am excited to see how you progress.

 

[dustyrangers]

I think that the back wall of the cab is structural, so I don't know how much of it you would be able to cut away without compromising the truck. If it were me, I would try to attack any of that surface rust on the frame. While it certainly is not bad, doing it while the bed is off would make it substantially easier.

The more I stare at that wall the less I think the cab can handle anything without it (and some added beams). I have a lot of experience in building but it's all wood and I don't want my first metal build to be a roll-cage .

Part of why I am taking so much off the truck is so that I can get rid of any rust the eye can see and paint things back to "new". Any recommendations for underbody paint? There are a few areas on the edges of the cab I plan to paint and I am going all out with texturized paint on the interior (and maybe rear of cab). I am hoping to get at least another 100k out of the body, but am really going for a truck that could truck on forever.

Any thoughts on a header back exhaust system? I'm thinking I will replace the headers while I have the engine bay torn apart.

I am also starting to wonder about braided brake and fuel lines. Anyone done this before?

 

[dustyrangers]

I don't know how I forgot to mention that this bad-boy needs to fit on there with a 4-wheeler.

The reason for the build is I bought a new Volvo S60 plug-in hybrid (these things are AWESOME... look them up if you don't believe) and have a 5-month old Little Man I want to take out to the mountains a lot. Our 2018 Outback doesn't cut it on the terrain (let alone the Volvo) and the Ranger is too small for the 3 of us (and my 70 lb dog), so we are selling the Outback and I am building the truck out for what it was destined to be: a tiny beast.

 

[09fx4guy]

I used Rust Bullet undercoating kit on the rear frame and underside of my bed. It has worked almost flawlessly, the only couple of spots where it failed were because of my prepwork being not 100% (I missed a spot or two when sanding).

 

[Blmpkn]

chassis saver is pretty highly regarded as an exceptional frame paint, and the prep is easier than most.

 

[dustyrangers]

Weather was bad today and I don’t have a garage so I spent most my free time covering things and getting a setup that works for the longer haul in the crazy Colorado weather. Valve covers are off and drivers side is way dirtier than the passenger. PO had some crazy gaps going on in the plugs here that were throwing the timing off and I’m wondering if that’s why.

Will spend the weekend cleaning the engine and trying to get it back together if I can get all the gaskets.

 

[Shadowrider6661]

The major structural areas at the rear of your cab are the B-Posts/Pillars. The ribbing below the window does give it some strength, but they are mostly there to prevent that annoying metal sound you get, example: wobble a piece of sheet metal or sheet steel by hand. Also, the ribs help deaden sound. Just so you know, I used to do body an frame repair for a living. There are plenty of opinions floating around concerning structure and strength, you will have to decide whether or not you'd be comfortable driving the truck with your family in it. I myself wouldn't have a problem cutting it out if I were in need. I would make sure to reinforce the edge though. A camper boot could be installed to connect the cab to the bed/box, whatever you call it. It would give you a nice size entryway for a camper body. It's just a thought, something to ponder. Best of luck with your project.

 

[dustyrangers]

If I do a pass-through, I'm picturing a boot like you'd see on the split-buses so it can flex with the cab, and behind that would be the camper just big enough for a bed. Then behind that would be a flat-bed.

I'm thinking of using one of these UTV jump seats as the rear seat. Either that or I'll put a third bucket in between two front buckets but offset to the back for leg room (obviously safer). Going to check out the former in store soon to get a sense of how quality the build is.

 

[Shadowrider6661]

You should try to find a couple seats out of those old Subaru pick up truck looking things (I used to know what they were called). They were set up with seat belts and grab handles.

 

[dustyrangers]

The BRATS come up for sale every once in a while here on the front range that are often for parts and I never thought of that one. Thank you!

 

[Shadowrider6661]

Thanks for naming it. My mind is temporarily restored !

 

[dustyrangers]

Here's the real rust problem. Way worse than I was expecting and this is just with a boot and bare hands. I know this is sort of common on these... is this a place I can grind off and weld a tube to? Picture a 2 inch round tube starting around where the hole is on the right and going to the back of the cab on the left. Better for mounting steps anyways. It doesn't look like it goes past the hanging part under the door step.