02 Sport Trac 4.0L 4x4 right front axle noise

[pjtoledo]

is it the caliper/pin or bracket/steering knuckle bolt?


caliper-pin:
if you grind the head off can you then push the stub/pin into the caliper bracket enough to clear the caliper?
or enough to cut it near the pins end?


bracket-steering knuckle bolt:
there is a trick for stuck caliper bracket-knuckle bolts.
you have the other one out, right?

use the actual bracket as a "wrench"

place vice grips or even better a pipe wrench on the rounded off bolt
apply pressure but not enough to slip the tool
now get a prybar and move the top of the bracket in the direction to loosen the bolt
with both the wrench and bracket applying force the bolt may loosen.




the three bolts holding in the hub unit assembly can also be used to remove it.
it's best to get other bolts as this may destroy your good bolts.

anyway, get those 3 bolts loose, then run them back in finger tight then back each out 1 turn.
smack 'em with a sizeable hammer, check for movement, either smack 'em again or turn them out another turn
the CV & axle will need to be removed from the knuckle first.

 

[rumblecloud]

Thanks for the heads up.

I saw in one video where a guy used an air hammer with a rounded point chisel placed in the center of the end of the exposed half shaft to nudge it back out of the hub before he removed the hub.

The reason I opted for the side hammer kit is cuz I don't have one and it has multiple other uses. Plus, I can justify it with the CFO because I am saving a crap ton of money by not paying someone else to do the work.

 

[pjtoledo]

Thanks for the heads up.

I saw in one video where a guy used an air hammer with a rounded point chisel placed in the center of the end of the exposed half shaft to nudge it back out of the hub before he removed the hub.

The reason I opted for the side hammer kit is cuz I don't have one and it has multiple other uses. Plus, I can justify it with the CFO because I am saving a crap ton of money by not paying someone else to do the work.

I hear 'ya. it's hard to get my purchasing manager to go along with any of my schemes.

I wouldn't use an air hammer on the axle stub. it's directly connected to the CV bearings and they don't always like that shock load.
however I do put a piece of wood against it to apply a dampened wallop.

 

[rumblecloud]

is it the caliper/pin or bracket/steering knuckle bolt?.......

I guess it would be the steering knuckle bolt? (Not familiar with those terms)
It's this one


Sorry for the graininess it's screen grab from the TUBE

 

[pjtoledo]

yes. that's the one where you can rock the whole caliper back 'n forth to assist loosening it.

 

[rumblecloud]

I was wondering about that but didn't try it. I was getting the "I can't feel my fingers' thing and decided to quit before frost bite set in.
Ahhh but tomorrow I will give that a go. At the very least as you say it may help loosen the bottom bolt - even if it's not enough for me to remove it without an extractor it will help the penetrater do it's thing.

I love this forum. So many good people.

 

[JohnnyO]

Make sure you torque the hub nut to the proper spec. The YouTube videos show you, I think it's like 180 ft. lb. Sport Tracs are known for going through front wheel bearings but me and a few others on the Sport Trac boards seem to have traced it to shops, including the dealer in my case, tightening the hub nut with an impact wrench to save time. If it's too loose, too tight, or buggered with an impact wrench, it won't last real long.

 

[rumblecloud]

Good to know. It's not often I get to use my torque wrenches so when I do I look forward to it.

Thanks.

 

[JohnnyO]

Good to know. It's not often I get to use my torque wrenches so when I do I look forward to it.

Thanks.

You need the Big Ass Torque Wrench to get to 180-185 ft. lb.
I went through NINE front hub & bearings on my '08 in 140,000 miles, most replaced on warranty or extended warranty at the dealer. Even Todd Z the Sport Trac guru couldn't figure it out. After a few others on the Sport Trac boards had similar experiences we traced it to improper installation using impact wrenches. I had one go bad when I was in Florida in 2017 working as a hurricane relief volunteer so I had both done at a Ford dealer across the street from my hotel since I had to drive home to PA. They must have done it right because it's been over 60,000 miles now which is longer than any of them lasted before.

 

[rumblecloud]

Dang....got the hub off today -- in pieces. I dunno of the bearing was bad before, but it is now. It came off in pieces. Replacing the heads was easier.


The bottom bolt was the biatch. I ordered some easy-out type sockets to make that happen. Easy-out is a lie.



With the caliper out of the way I used the slide hammer to pop the hub off. I ended up having to use a sledge to help.


The inner part of the hub and bearing ended up separating from the housing which refused to budge,


After a few minutes of pounding on the lobes where the bolts were - back and forth - I was able to get it to a point where I could hit from behind and it finally came loose.



So I'm thinking I need a new hub assembly

I'll be getting one from Rock Auto. There is quite a range in prices from like around $30 to close to $200. I'm thinking of this one from Timken. About $100 with a one year warranty.
Am I nuts for spending that much?
I appreciate any advice on this cause I'm not that knowledgeable (smart). Thanks in advance. R

 

[JohnnyO]

You have to replace the hub and bearing as a whole assembly. I don't know that it matters how much you spend but how good the warranty is. As mentioned, torque it to the proper spec.

 

[rumblecloud]

It's a straight forward job... I've had the hub rust into the knuckle... usually takes a few whacks with a big hammer.


Caution when removing the hub bolts from the backside... don't damage the CV boot.

View attachment 54375

@Uncle Gump: It's funny how the amount of tools accummulate to do a "straightforward" job and they're all different .
My pile was way bigger than yours.

 

[Uncle Gump]

lol... I see that.

That one gave you a bit of trouble for sure.

If you think you may add a tire carrier in the future... that hub flange would make a good mount.

 

[Dirtman]

My pile was way bigger than yours.

 

[rumblecloud]

Where can I get replacement bolts? Or it as simple as going to a bolt bin at a hardware store?
I know it can't be that simple.

Also the axle end nut and hub bolts (which seem to be okay, but I'm not sure they would hold up to the torque specs when I try to apply them.
I think it's 84 ft. lbs. for the hub bolts and as JohnnyO said 184 ft. lbs. for the axle nut.

Imma go search Rock Auto and the other usual suspects.
Thanks
r
EDIT:
Okay got the Spindle Nut and Caliper Bracket Bolts frmo Rock Auto -- easier than I thought. Still have to find the hub mounting bolts.