01 3.0 Lean codes

[Big65]

Trying to fix my father's truck as he passed last year and it has meaning to me. Getting P0174 and occasionally P0171 but only once every 6 months. Truck runs good until it hits temp and the mix ratio changes from cold pre sets. Once it gets warm enough I get a rattle or knock under acceleration. I've replaced vac lines due to cracking, pcv and o ring, fuel pump due to weak psi, maf, tps, egr, 02.

Last week I replaced the coil pack after 3 and 4 got misfire codes and I did the plugs. All plugs on drivers side the electrodes were rounded while the passenger side plugs were still pointed like new outvof the box, 80K miles on them. My thoughts are that the fuel rail or cross over lines are plugged given the burnt electrodes. From what I'm seeing no one makes the rails so I'm left with a junk yard pull or taking what I have and cutting off the pressed on lines, soaking the rail in carb cleaner to dissolve what I can and poke the rest out.

Can I use high pressure fuel line and hose clamps to replace the old ones? Is there any thing else to look at? Brake cleaner test provided nothing. Swapping out 02 did nothing.

 

[stmitch]

If it's a flex fuel truck, and you can find it, E85 is an excellent fuel system/combustion chamber cleaner. I'd work it in gradually over a couple of tanks though or you might cause yourself more problems.

 

[2011Supercab]

All plugs on drivers side the electrodes were rounded while the passenger side plugs were still pointed like new out of the box,

That's the way spark plugs wear on Ford (or any vehicle that uses a wasted spark system)

One side of engine wears out the center electrode, other side wears out the ground electrode.

 

[superj]

and you checked the temp sensor/sender? since it does stuff once it reaches temp?

 

[Big65]

I haven't checked the temp sensor, I assume it's the same as the one for the dash and I haven't had any problems with it. Air fuel mixture is supposed to be different st a cold start up until it reaches a set temperature and then it adjusts normally similar to a carb set with a choke.

It's non flex fuel model.

By wasted spark are you referring to how the coil pack consists of the coils that serve two cylinders each instead of individual coil for each cylinder?

 

[Big65]

I should add that once it's reached 1/4 on the temp guage if I get on the gas I get a rattling that sounds like a lifter. It's not there when it's cold and not there under normal driving conditions but if I have to do a moderate acceleration then it rattles. Gas mileage is not good, I get 250 out of a tank on regular.

 

[Big65]

That's the way spark plugs wear on Ford (or any vehicle that uses a wasted spark system)

One side of engine wears out the center electrode, other side wears out the ground electrode.

The thing with this is there's no wear on the passenger side at all on either electrode.

 

[stmitch]

I should add that once it's reached 1/4 on the temp guage if I get on the gas I get a rattling that sounds like a lifter. It's not there when it's cold and not there under normal driving conditions but if I have to do a moderate acceleration then it rattles. Gas mileage is not good, I get 250 out of a tank on regular.

The 'rattling' you're hearing is likely "pinging" or predetonation. It happens when some of the fuel ignites on it's own before the spark. The 3.0 is known for it. Carbon buildup in the combustion chamber can contribute to it. So can a lean condition that increases temps in the combustion chamber. (That would align with the 2 fault codes that you're getting.) Has the fuel filter been replaced? They're a common issue.
If it were my truck, here's what I'd do before really tearing into it much further. I'd go ahead and spend a couple of bucks on 2 cans of seafoam. I'd put 1 can into the brake booster to clean any carbon out of the intake tract, and dump the second can into the fuel tank. It can foul spark plugs, but will at least help to confirm that you're starting with a relatively carbon free system. Once the seafoam job is done, and you've run that tank of fuel with the cleaner through, then change the fuel filter and see how it's running. If it's still rough, you can swap spark plugs. If it's still throwing lean codes after that, then it might be worth pulling the fuel rail/injectors for inspection.

As for the fuel economy, miles per tank is a pretty poor way to gauge it. I think your fuel tank is around 16 gallons. If you're getting 250 miles per tank, that works out to 15.6mpg which isn't great, but also isn't unheard of for a Ranger with a 3.0. Especially in the winter when it takes longer to warm up, fuel blends change, and colder air temps impact oil viscocity and air/fuel mix. Trucks with an automatic transmission, 4WD, or extended cab will tend to do worse than regular cabs, manual trans, or 2wd.

Here's what fuelly shows for a 2001 Ranger with a 3.0. It seems like 15-17mpg is the most common:

2001 Ford Ranger MPG - Actual MPG from 29 2001 Ford Ranger owners

The most accurate 2001 Ford Rangers MPG estimates based on real world results of 458 thousand miles driven in 29 Ford Rangers

www.fuelly.com

 

[work2do]

The 'rattling' you're hearing is likely "pinging" or predetonation. It happens when some of the fuel ignites on it's own before the spark. The 3.0 is known for it. Carbon buildup in the combustion chamber can contribute to it. So can a lean condition that increases temps in the combustion chamber. (That would align with the 2 fault codes that you're getting.) Has the fuel filter been replaced? They're a common issue.
If it were my truck, here's what I'd do before really tearing into it much further. I'd go ahead and spend a couple of bucks on 2 cans of seafoam. I'd put 1 can into the brake booster to clean any carbon out of the intake tract, and dump the second can into the fuel tank. It can foul spark plugs, but will at least help to confirm that you're starting with a relatively carbon free system. Once the seafoam job is done, and you've run that tank of fuel with the cleaner through, then change the fuel filter and see how it's running. If it's still rough, you can swap spark plugs. If it's still throwing lean codes after that, then it might be worth pulling the fuel rail/injectors for inspection.

As for the fuel economy, miles per tank is a pretty poor way to gauge it. I think your fuel tank is around 16 gallons. If you're getting 250 miles per tank, that works out to 15.6mpg which isn't great, but also isn't unheard of for a Ranger with a 3.0. Especially in the winter when it takes longer to warm up, fuel blends change, and colder air temps impact oil viscocity and air/fuel mix. Trucks with an automatic transmission, 4WD, or extended cab will tend to do worse than regular cabs, manual trans, or 2wd.

Here's what fuelly shows for a 2001 Ranger with a 3.0. It seems like 15-17mpg is the most common:

2001 Ford Ranger MPG - Actual MPG from 29 2001 Ford Ranger owners

The most accurate 2001 Ford Rangers MPG estimates based on real world results of 458 thousand miles driven in 29 Ford Rangers

www.fuelly.com

Well if the OP didn't appreciate your advice I certainly do. Recently scored a 2000 XLT flareside from a younger coworker who let it sit since starting a family. 118k, very clean, 3.0 4R. Worth what I've put in getting it back to great shape. Got the A/C going last week and the added load made pinging quite noticeable. Ran a tank of 92 and didn't make much difference, vacuum lines are good and no codes so I suspect carbon build up.

It is a FFV and I can find E85 here around central OH. Never run it before, any thoughts on filling with E85 on a half tank or so of regular unleaded, then cycling a full tank or two after ? Regardless I will change the fuel filter and run Seafoam/Berrymans, then replace plugs as a matter of course. When adding to the brake booster, do you mean just using the vacuum hose to draw from the can ? Please advise and thank you !

 

[stmitch]

Well if the OP didn't appreciate your advice I certainly do. Recently scored a 2000 XLT flareside from a younger coworker who let it sit since starting a family. 118k, very clean, 3.0 4R. Worth what I've put in getting it back to great shape. Got the A/C going last week and the added load made pinging quite noticeable. Ran a tank of 92 and didn't make much difference, vacuum lines are good and no codes so I suspect carbon build up.

It is a FFV and I can find E85 here around central OH. Never run it before, any thoughts on filling with E85 on a half tank or so of regular unleaded, then cycling a full tank or two after ? Regardless I will change the fuel filter and run Seafoam/Berrymans, then replace plugs as a matter of course. When adding to the brake booster, do you mean just using the vacuum hose to draw from the can ? Please advise and thank you !

E85 is an excellent fuel system cleaner. I would phase it in slowly as you suggested and skip running seafoam through the tank.

As for the Seafoam, yes you let the vacuum suck it from the can, through the hose to the intake manifold. There are instructions on the can.

 

[work2do]

Good suggestion ! On my 3rd tank of E85. When I get down to 1/4 tank I'm going install the new fuel filter and run unleaded and see how she goes before sipping the seafoam. Didn't get much better than 16 mpg on the E85 so it's no better or worse on the cost scale but a good option to clean the fuel system.