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‘94 4.0L 4x4 - Hard to find parts?


victory_ranger

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Vehicle Year
1994
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Ford Ranger
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4.0 V6
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
4WD
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31
I just purchased my first Ranger, and am new to car maintenance in general. I want to learn as much as I can and work on this truck myself. I’ve already started routine mx, fluids, etc with my step dad. I am headed to the junkyard tomorrow as they report having three gen 3 rangers on site. I’m curious what parts are hard to come by for this year/engine, as well as in general for Rangers that I should pick up as “just in case” parts for later down the line. Appreciate any advice! Or if there is already a thread, if you can point me in the right direction. :headbang:
TIA
 
Last edited:


Shran

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Interior parts will be your biggest challenge. Small things like shifter boots, trim around the seats, the trim right next to the seats on the floor, door panels, seats, armrests. You might also grab front spindles if they are in good shape, locking hubs, wheel bearing nuts/washer/axle shaft thrust washer & clip. Manual transfer cases and the shifter & boot that go along with that are always in high demand. Doesn't hurt to have extra taillights/headlights/grill/trim on hand either.

Nothing else is really what I would consider hard to find. Out where you are at, rust is not such a big issue... so you're not too worried about needing body panels or things like that unless there is collision damage, it's mainly just those small wear items inside the truck and things outside that get broken that are nice to have on hand.
 

victory_ranger

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Vehicle Year
1994
Make / Model
Ford Ranger
Engine Type
4.0 V6
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Tire Size
31
Interior parts will be your biggest challenge. Small things like shifter boots, trim around the seats, the trim right next to the seats on the floor, door panels, seats, armrests. You might also grab front spindles if they are in good shape, locking hubs, wheel bearing nuts/washer/axle shaft thrust washer & clip. Manual transfer cases and the shifter & boot that go along with that are always in high demand. Doesn't hurt to have extra taillights/headlights/grill/trim on hand either.

Nothing else is really what I would consider hard to find. Out where you are at, rust is not such a big issue... so you're not too worried about needing body panels or things like that unless there is collision damage, it's mainly just those small wear items inside the truck and things outside that get broken that are nice to have on hand.
Incredibly helpful! Thank you for this info
 

Kira

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Ford Ranger FX4
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Automatic
How many miles are on your '94?
1994 is in Generation II. Generation 3 is 1998 to 2011.
Two different 4.0l V6 engines are involved.
Please clarify.

A few questions regarding the IAC (Idle Air Control) valve have come up.
Even for exploratory (T&E) trials, an OE (Motorcraft) or OEM (Hitachi) is recommended as the control signaling is specific.
If it's not too much money, having a spare one could pay-off. However, you'd have to "swap-check" any IAC you bought immediately so you know it's working.

If your alternator is making any noise at all, you might want to grab an OE alternator (Motorcraft) and have it rebuilt.

Is any of your air cleaner housing (box) or hosing split? Battery tray or cover nasty or missing?

Do the "hot pipes" from EGR systems wear out or bend if you have to change the EGR valve? Maybe grab one of those?

Coolant or washer reservoirs and pumps? Is the "vacuum bottle" for MAX AC setting there? Wobbling windshield wiper hardware? Cracked / yellowing dome light?

What's the condition of your mirrors?

Will the yard let you take things off an engine?
 

rusty ol ranger

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My credo
A legend to the old man, a hero to the child...
How many miles are on your '94?
1994 is in Generation II. Generation 3 is 1998 to 2011.
Two different 4.0l V6 engines are involved.
Please clarify.

A few questions regarding the IAC (Idle Air Control) valve have come up.
Even for exploratory (T&E) trials, an OE (Motorcraft) or OEM (Hitachi) is recommended as the control signaling is specific.
If it's not too much money, having a spare one could pay-off. However, you'd have to "swap-check" any IAC you bought immediately so you know it's working.

If your alternator is making any noise at all, you might want to grab an OE alternator (Motorcraft) and have it rebuilt.

Is any of your air cleaner housing (box) or hosing split? Battery tray or cover nasty or missing?

Do the "hot pipes" from EGR systems wear out or bend if you have to change the EGR valve? Maybe grab one of those?

Coolant or washer reservoirs and pumps? Is the "vacuum bottle" for MAX AC setting there? Wobbling windshield wiper hardware? Cracked / yellowing dome light?

What's the condition of your mirrors?

Will the yard let you take things off an engine?
Around here and i think in the RBV community in general the generations go as follows...

83-88 1st
89-92 2nd
93-97 3rd
98-01 4th
02+ 5th.

Yes the 83-88 and 89-92 were kinda similar, but had different dashes, the 4.0L came into play, and the front end changed. Its a different generation.

F series guys dont lump 87-91 and 92-96 in the same gen despite the differences being about the same as an 83-88 and 89-92 ranger.
 

CamTheHedgehog

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Location
Charlotte, NC
Vehicle Year
2003
Make / Model
Ranger Edge
Engine Type
4.0 V6
Engine Size
4.0 SOHC
Transmission
Automatic
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
Torsion Bar Max Crank (Pre-2008)
Tire Size
265/75/16
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How 'bout your diff fluid maintenance?
Ford’s service info, at least for my 2003, says the gear lube is good for the life of the axle unless you ford water. I don’t buy that, and change mine every 50k. Ford’s spec is 80w-90 all around, that’s for conventional though. For synthetic, even though the viscosity grade is similar, the actual kinematic viscosity is different. For instance, a 75w-90, despite being close to 80w-90, is significantly thinner. So if you choose to run synthetic, 75w-110 is the closest to the actual viscosity of conventional 80w-90.

Because 75w-110 is hard to find and pricey, I run 75w-140 synthetic in the rear, which is a little thicker but not much and improves protection at the cost of a bit of fuel economy. (Ford actually spec’s 74w-140 synthetic for the fx4 with the Torsen LSD). And then I run Motorcraft 80w-90 in the front diff.
 

CamTheHedgehog

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2003
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Ranger Edge
Engine Type
4.0 V6
Engine Size
4.0 SOHC
Transmission
Automatic
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
Torsion Bar Max Crank (Pre-2008)
Tire Size
265/75/16
My credo
Professional Dingus At Work
I should also add- there is no drain for either axle, you have to remove the cover to drain the fluid. Gives a good opportunity to inspect the gears and reseal the cover as well.

If you have a 4x4, things get interesting. On the 98 and up, there is actually not enough room to remove the front diff cover with it still in the truck. This leaves your only option for changing the fluid to be sucking it out with a suction pump and refilling it.




Nevermind, you have a 94. Ignore what I said.
 

Kira

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Automatic
RBV? I could only find "Reduced Book Value" as a definition.

Ranger-Bronco-?
 

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