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I found my EVTM manual. I suspect the 'blend door actuator' (not cable controled) as this looks to control the temperature door in the plenum. Anybody, have experience with this?

When the fan is on I continually get hot air from the vents. Turning the temperature adjustment knob to cool (counter clockwise) does not change the temperature. If I listen carefully when I turn the temperature adjustment knob I can sometimes hear a slight grinding sound....not fan related...

Yep - this is why I want to disable the lock and NOT leave in the key. It's a non-issue I have a manual trans and manual xfercase - set both to neutral and good to go.

Anybody connected a towbar to their rig? I fab'd a towbar for an old Jeep and it worked great. I have 96 4x4 with the manual trans and manual xfer case/hubs. Is there an easy way to defeat the ignition lock? I was thinking I could leave the key in, disabling the the lock and disconnect the...

I just when through all this. I have a 96 Ranger XLT 4X4 4.0l M5OD-R1. I was having difficulty shifting into 1st gear while at a complete stop.... a classic slave cylinder issue where is does not completely disengage. Replacing the slave cylinder solved my issue – shifts like a new vehicle. So...

Yea -- it is a hassle. When I reinstalled the bolts I put a dab of anti-seize on the threads and used lockwashers. If I have to pull the trans again; should be a none issue.

Thanx.

So far I am on the same track: oil on crankshaft journal/iner metal sleeve, check!, pack seal cavity with grease,check! Same as with a seal without a wear sleeve. So this would be between the seal and where in comes in contact with the engine block? In the past I have cleaned the area with...

I have BS 40619 seal with the metal sleeve. I have never used a seal with a metal sleeve. So are lubrication points necessary for the install? I plan on putting some clean motor oil on the inside of the wear sleeve, but anyplace else?

Thanks for the reply. I just picked up a Fel-Pro BS 40619 seal set; main seal and metal sleeve. The 'sleeve' is new to me. I assume this is used to assist in the install?

Quick question: Is it better to install the pilot bearing in the flywheel prior to bolting the flywheel on the crank. Or, bolt up the flywheel and install the pilot bearing. This in on a 96 Ranger 4.0L, MDO5. My preference would be to install the pilot bearing prior to installing the...

I am going through this process right now. I have a 96 xtl 4.0l with the MDO5 (manual 5 spd), manual xfer case. I just dropped the transmission and transfer case. I'll replace the clutch assembly, slave cylinder, possibly the flywheel. Anyway, I suspect I will need to replace the main seal...

Thank you for the advice. I think removing the xfer case and then the transmission is the plan.

Thanks for all the reply's and advice. I got'em out...used a flex head ratchet and put some heat on the thread well in the block and it worked. Got my yoga in for the day. I was concerned about using a 1/2 impact gun as I did not want to shear and have to extract a bolt - been there done...

Gurus -- I have a 96' Ranger XLT 4.0 4x4 with MDO5 manual. I am all set to drop the transmission; everything that needed to be removed is out -- hassle. Anyway, the 'book' says to remove the transfer case and then remove the transmission. But I am thinking I can remove it as a unit and save...

Gurus - I have a 96 Ranger 4x4 v6 4l, with the M50D 5 speed. I am getting close to dropping the transmission (exhaust removed, drive lines removed, shifter etc). Any tips on accessing the two bolts on the top of the bellhousing? So far every bolt that I removed has required a LOT of heat to...

I did swap out the clutch master cylinder with a unit that was prefilled. It was worth the $40 gamble; but no change in the issue. No noticeable bearing noise. Clutch pedal is firm. I have a hand vacuum pump bleed tool and will attach to the slave cylinder bleed port and run the process...

Gurus, I have a difficult time shifting into 1st gear while at a complete stop; roll a little and it will engage. Shifts normal when underway. After doing a bit of research this looks to be a classic case of the clutch not going into full release. The usual suspect being the slave cylinder...

Time to replace the pads and rotors on my 1996 Ranger 4x4. I have factory manual hubs. Here are the questions for all you gurus: Aside from the brake parts... Are there any seals that I should replace once I have the rotor off and the bearings out? Thanx C -

I have a 96 Ranger with factory manual hubs. I need to remove the brake rotors. The question: Is the locknut socket (Ford T86T 1197 A ,4 pin) required to remove the hubs? I can't find any definitive information indicating it is required for the 96 model....I suspect it is.