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Have you looked much into the 6.8, I've shot a couple rifles and hunted with a couple rifles that are 6.8 and have been fairly impressed, now its not too affordable for plinking quite like the 5.56

Yeah, if you don't mind, what engine set up are you going to run? Stock bore? What cam, what compression ratio etc?

Drill press isn't bad but a CNC is so much easier just find center and hit start

I would imagine rims or rotors would be cheaper to drill for the fact that an axle is limited on what machine you can set it up on to drill it

That would seem easy, almost too easy lol,

Are those 165s? I was just reading from hotrod mag that the 165s they bolted on that were 50 state street legal gained them 100 ponies ????? That's crazy for heads I think that's the route I'll go, http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/engine/116-0307-ford-302-v8-engine-buildup/

From what I've read to do a disc swap on an older 8.8 the one that would be 5x5.5 you can use explorer stuff but have to redrill calipers and turn down the outer axle backing plate, so I think you have the right ideal with the piece together, I've seen some kits to swap but never heard many good...

Can you get part numbers off the old parts?

Just along the ar15 line I thought it was really neat and pretty cheap for a CNC that will take g code, look up the "ghost gunner" its $1200

I just tried to replace my u joint in my drivers side axle on a ttb, but the yokes were bent closer together so I couldn't get the u joint clips on, anybody else have this problem? If so how did you did it

Out of all the lowers all I have to say is stay away from polymer ones, also a full auto bolt will shoot just fine and operate like a semi auto bolt but usually you can find them cheaper,

Make sure you get the chrome lined barrel they have some uppers that's aren't,

I know you're talking about lowers but check palmetto state armory's website they have a good price on uppers on clearance and I am very very pleased with mine I'll dig out some receipts the last one I built from scratch cost like $450 ish

So im in the middle of a explorer 8.8 swap and I pulled the top spring plates off a Dana 60, both axles being 3.25 diameter, I go to buy ubolts at Napa, tell them how long and my maxle diameter and get home and they are loose. They are 3.5 wide, I called them up and he said he made them to my...

Well pretty self explanatory, are the James duff extended radius arms worth the money? To me $750 is allot when I can extend factory ones for $270 ish with Dom tubing and heims all from ruff stuff? Anybody have them any pros or cons

I have a 302 with a zf5 behind it going in my ranger and the mounts on the zf happen to line up to the factory trans member, will the stock trans member that mounts to the outside of the frame be enough to support the behemoth of a zf, it'll also have a np205 with the 205 having another cross...

So I have a 69 302 with the dipstick in the timing cover well for the dual sumo I needed one with the dipstick that goes into the rear sump of the pan, I got one for a 79 mustang, now I cant seem to find a dipstick, were would I look

What is this part called its were the heater hose connects to the intake manifold

Well did a little more work, i didnt realize i would have to change a main cap bolt for the different oil pickup

Well i was going to start building but ran into a deal i thought was to good to resist, got some full width f150 axles with 35s for $200 the kid also threw in some vert mounts